Today my truck got finished up. After weeks of searching to find out whats wrong we finally dove in deciding to do all new timing components and phasers. The truck had a bad clank and woofing noise and was getting worse then began bucking. After swapping out all the parts we fired it up and it was quiet but still bucking. Plugged it in and found it to be on 7 cylinders. Got a new plug and coil pack in cylinder 1 and now she purrrrs like a kitten. O and it also got inspected and emissions as well as all new fluids for under 2k. So tell your dealers asking 3 and 3500 to go kick rocks

 

Good it hear that everything is much better. Did you do all the work yourself? If so, would you mind doing a write up? I'm interested in avoiding trips to the dealer that cost as much as a coilover upgrade.

 

My relative did most of the work. I was there to observe. Im still learning the internals of this truck but really after seeing it done it doesnt appear hard, just very time consuming. The biggest thing I felt was getting it in time without using the Ford tools that they use. Other than that, its all just parts off and parts back on

 

screw04 - So you're truck is running perfectly now, even when it is up to running temperature?

I'm on the very edge of ordering all the parts I need from rockauto and doing this whole timing job myself, but I'm worried because of all the horror stories I've read saying they've replaced all this stuff and they still have issues when warm.

My truck is very very loud ticking when warm, and the chain rattles more when warm. Which makes sense for it to be the cam phasers and chain tensioners. But I am also idling very low when at operating temperature, the lowest I have seen was around 250 rpms when stopped at a red light (and trust me you can really hear the chain rattle when the rpms are that low)... I'm wondering if you had low idle problems before you did you're timing job and this fixed it all? Because I do not want to spend the 500 some dollars, plus hours and hours of my time to find out that my motor is worn out and can't create the necessary oil pressure.

 

It fixed mine up, the only thing I didnt do was change the VCTs but I do still have a VCT tick but the motor rattle and clank is gone. As soon as we pulled the valve covers you could see the passenger side chain was just dangling on mine. My drivers side was still tight