thebestengines

Think you are going to find that thick oil will do the trick seeing it runs fine with cold thick oil. Also those screens inside the vct body are probably fine too as if they were restricted a cold engine would also give you issues. If you run the heavy oil and it still has low pressure/ phaser issues - unplugging the VCT will not really impact engine power seeing they return cam to full advance when engine is under load
However, valve timing that controls EGR function will be negative impacted. Maybe others who unplugged them for long term operation can chime in - think unplugged vct activates limp mode reducing your power at some point - not sure as never tried it. If not unplugging will be like adding lock outs without the work and expense (as long as the locking pin in the phasers are in good condition)👍🏻

stankyjeans

If the body is still in good shape and all the electronics gizmos and gadgets work... I'd spend up to $10,000 on a new engine, transmission and any other fixes. Maybe even a bit more. My logic: Have you looked at the price of a new truck today? NO THANKS! I'd much rather rebuild the one I OWN! A new engine and trans won't cost that much in my case, but even if it did... that's WAY cheaper than a new truck. And did I mention I OWN my truck? Title in hand. No payments!

I plan to do a re-power package after my Triton finally dies. I was looking at a Frazer engine/trans package when my timing parts when to hell. They ship the engine straight to you and drop it off in front of your garage and pick up your core (or at least the last time I was looking at their site).

I also plan to lift the body off the frame to swap the engine and transmission... <speaking in Mandalorian> "THIS IS THE WAY" !

untergeek

I 100% agree. I just bought a 2005 F-150 SuperCrew Lariat 4x4 for $4500, with 242,500 on it, and the transmission was barely rebuilt at 240,000 miles, so I practically have a new transmission. The engine was still running well, but you could hear the clatter of problematic timing chain tensioners at start-up (which diminished as oil pressure finally pushed it out). So what did I do?

• Lock the phasers
• Replace the chains, tensioners, guides
• Replace the oil pump with a Melling 360HV
• Replace the roller followers (they had the OG "big hole" versions still)
• Replace the plugs & coil packs
• Replace the brakes & rotors
• Flush and exchange the rear diff fluid

Things I've also done:

• Replace the headlights (yellowing on the INSIDE of the plastic can't be buffed out from the outside)
• Replace the fuel filter (PLUGGED BEYOND BELIEF)
• Replace the factory air filter with an aFe MagnaFlow stage 2 pickup (better filtration than the K&N version, and better air flow than stock).
• Phaser lock ECU tune from 5 Star Tuning also covers the Cold Air Intake
• Tailgate handle camera feeding:
• CarPlay stereo from Sony

Total investments at this point, including the price of the truck: $4500 for the truck + $4500 for parts, tools, and supplies = $9000

Things yet to do:

• Paint the roof (not the hood, the roof! It's oxidized and rusting in the channels on top): $400
• Rhino Lining for the truck bed: $550
• Add-on fender flares: $400
• Tires before winter: $1000

That puts my total investment in this truck at around $10,500, and it will have LOTS of life left in it. The cam bearings showed a little wear, but I believe what wear was there is from oil pressure drop over time. That's why I deliberately chose to lock the phasers so that the cam isn't trying to suck oil pressure to power the VCT, and added the Melling 360HV to guarantee more oil pressure and volume. I hope to get at least another 100,000 miles out of the engine with these repairs. When this engine dies, I'm likely to drop in a new one, just like many other have advocated. Keep the bearings, bushings, and other drivetrain parts in good repair, and this truck will last forever, probably.

redfishtd

If you are going back into the timing cover for investigation of low oil pressure, I would put steel old style ratcheting tensioners in it ,melling makes them for one . Plastic tensioners gaskets are famous for leaks steel tensioners don't have gaskets to fail plus they hold tension until oil pressure comes up .
Granted cam journals can be worn and leaking same for bearings on crank . Rollers are now improved with a smaller hole point more toward the roller wheel .
You can change rollers out from the top by popping them out with a screw driver when they are off lobes . I think FTM shows how to do that carefully .
Changing rollers on a high milege engine is desirable as they are a high failure device . They should be the new design in most remans .
These are the things you can try that are not too expensive . But I admit my full set of rollers lashs were only $265 seven or eight years ago . Not so cheap now .
ebay

OEM Ford Performance 5.4L 4.6L 3V Rocker Arm Kit w/ Lash Adjuster Set M-6529-3V

Ford Performance OEM Replacement Parts, Made in the USA
Condition:
NewNew

Price:
US $429.99

freedom racing
https://www.freedomracing.com/6-8l-5...3z-6564-ba.htm
$11.34 each times 24 =around $274
Worn rollers are dangerous mine had one intake roller thrown at 130k miles luckily it missed cam and was laying to the side. number 8 seems to be the worst for this .I bought mine at ebay oem select
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25448439315...kAAOxyGqZSVpOX
now $359

Bufsabre

Had the exhaust manifolds replaced about a yr ago. After a day or so I developed a p0581 code. Cruise control. No biggie I figured. Then a week later p012,p022,p345,p349. Been chasing my tail ever since. Truck has about 180k. Complete timing job done before I got the truck at 98k. I'm thinking a total timing job again but also I have a feeling that the oil pump should be replaced. Change my mind.Btw. My cheapo programmer doesn't read oil pressure but after a short 4-5 mile drive my oil temp gets what I think is high at 230°

nkolessa

Bufsabre,
I would definitely take time to get the oil pressure measured/monitored while hot. Ford really F'd up the fact that you can't monitor oil pressure without a secondary connection (not possible via pcm). In my case I was chasing what i thought were VCT issues and ended up being low oil pressure readings at Hot temp. Your oil pressure seems high for that short of trip. My oil temp only got to 210-215F after 1hr of driving.

Just to tie up my low oil pressure situation I switched over to 5W-50 (was running 5w-30) to try to up my hot idle oil pressure. I didn't get nearly what I expected. At lower temps I got 10-12psi improvement but at hot idle I only got 4psi. However, this was enough to allow the VCT's to run fine for over 1 hr (all I had time for). Plan to run it this way for the awhile and hopefully get in some longer trips to see how good of a solution this is. This is an around town vehicle so if it stays good for an hour it would cover 99% of its use and may last me another 10 years LOL

wpg_f150

I really wonder if these engines would have less issues if people were using a high quality 5w40 and changing out every 5k with high quality filter as well, like there's a TON of people who've switched to 5w30 with no issues so wouldn't going up to 40 weight improve oil pressure and thus reduce these timing issues?

Then again I'm no rocket psychologist so what do I know lol

thebestengines

Those who have worn high mileage engines reading this forum are most likely already using thicker oil . If you have perfect running 5.4 there is no need to go above 5w30 to quiet a non noisy good oil pressure engine. Just the 3000 mile filter and oil change is mandatory.

Grachman

I know tensioner goes and lowers oil pressure but what is point of changing oil frequently. To protect solenoids? Why not advise selling truck if it requires fortune in synthetic oil?

thebestengines

you nailed it - once dirty oil leads to varnish in those solenoids they will start giving phasers issues -