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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

 
Old 02-21-2019, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jefford View Post
Are those in the timing chain set?
Rock Auto Part #?
i dunno you’d have to look. The failed tensioners are why the rest of the system goes down. I bought all Motorcraft parts off Amazon, piece by piece. If you’re using discount Rockauto parts for this timing job...don’t be surprised if you have to tear back into it soon.
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Old 02-21-2019, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by dukedkt442 View Post


i dunno you’d have to look. The failed tensioners are why the rest of the system goes down. I bought all Motorcraft parts off Amazon, piece by piece. If you’re using discount Rockauto parts for this timing job...don’t be surprised if you have to tear back into it soon.

Yessir!

Failed tensioners ---> slack in the chains ---> chains slapping the guides when engine startup...
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:13 AM
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Does anyone have a sure link for Rock Auto for tensioners for the 5.4 2004?
I'd like to order this morning.
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Old 02-22-2019, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jefford View Post
Does anyone have a sure link for Rock Auto for tensioners for the 5.4 2004?
I'd like to order this morning.
I bought my timing chain kit from O'Reilly's, but here is the Rock Auto link (configured for my truck):

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tensioner,5736

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Old 02-23-2019, 01:20 PM
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folks if you are going to do this use all ford parts. use the melling oil pump and get the up graded lifters. i did everything including new cam and crank sensors, water pump even put a new reluctor wheel on, changed one rocker. buy the tools. used last rendition of vct valve. then i use 7989 champions and 5 30 mobile one. did this job at around 225k have 270k on on it now. do not use dorman or after market phasers. also i used steel chain adjusters get rid of those crap plastic deals.guess you could use american made gears and chains but for a few bucks more you can get the best.truck sounds good and use very little oil at change.the new lifters have bigger oil passages. engine sounds like new.
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Old 02-23-2019, 01:22 PM
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been using the champions since 160k change every 40k never a problem. also went to the new bosch 4hole injectors with new cops.
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Old 02-23-2019, 08:05 PM
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Suggestions on non-plastic adjusters?
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Old 02-24-2019, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ceasefire49 View Post
folks if you are going to do this use all ford parts. use the melling oil pump and get the up graded lifters. i did everything including new cam and crank sensors, water pump even put a new reluctor wheel on, changed one rocker. buy the tools. used last rendition of vct valve. then i use 7989 champions and 5 30 mobile one. did this job at around 225k have 270k on on it now. do not use dorman or after market phasers. also i used steel chain adjusters get rid of those crap plastic deals.guess you could use american made gears and chains but for a few bucks more you can get the best.truck sounds good and use very little oil at change.the new lifters have bigger oil passages. engine sounds like new.
Thanks sir!
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Old 02-24-2019, 04:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ceasefire49 View Post
folks if you are going to do this use all ford parts. use the melling oil pump and get the up graded lifters. i did everything including new cam and crank sensors, water pump even put a new reluctor wheel on, changed one rocker. buy the tools. used last rendition of vct valve. then i use 7989 champions and 5 30 mobile one. did this job at around 225k have 270k on on it now. do not use dorman or after market phasers. also i used steel chain adjusters get rid of those crap plastic deals.guess you could use american made gears and chains but for a few bucks more you can get the best.truck sounds good and use very little oil at change.the new lifters have bigger oil passages. engine sounds like new.
If you went to that much trouble, why didn't you just rebuild the entire engine? Just curious. I haven't priced new rings and bearings, but I can't imagine they'd be too terribly expensive. Machining too of course if the engine needed boring.

That's my dilemma.. I have the tick sound, but I'm approaching 200k. Although I have the parts to do the phazers and chains - I'm leaning pretty heavy toward yanking the engine and rebuilding it, OR get a short-block, OR another engine to rebuild while I can still run the one I have. I've ran across a few rebuildable cores pretty cheap. This way would shorten your down-time Hell, I've even found entire trucks (wrecked) for a few grand or less. Personally, I can't get around that well anymore, but I can still sling a wrench - it just takes me a bit longer!

Also, I've been watching this thread for a long time and one thing that hasn't been mentioned with those of us with very high miles: The transmission! It doesn't last forever. So with that in mind - wouldn't it be cost-effective to just do the whole smash? If you R&R the engine and trans - you can address any other issues all at once and have a truck for the next 20 years.

Sj
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:39 AM
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not that much trouble the engine was not using any oil at the time . when i pulled the covers everything was fine nice and clean. micked the cam and hardly any wear. total cost was around 1500 for everything and bought parts over a year. most parts came from oem direct or from ebay bought the tools from amazon. i have driven to louisiana, montana,northern california and washington and hauled a trailer back from colorado springs. the engine sounds great and has good compression and no noise. why would i rebuild? I change all fluids regularly. The previous owner had the tranny rebuilt and rear end. I followed all the service bulletins when i got the truck at 100k. He worked for ford when he got the truck. If this engine goes I'll get the Jasper Engine at around 6K and drive for another 35K. I like the truck . I upgraded the Front Struts and rear coil overs. Put new upgraded front Hubs and clean the throttle Body every year along with changing the antifreeze. By the way My last trip up to Montana and back I averaged nearly 18MPG with the new Bosch Injectors and at 77MPH my Tach reads right at 2K. Before it was 69 at 2K. These are great trucks and the 5.4 with the correct changes applied is a great engine. The reason why I finally did it was That I started hearing a noise from the front and sure enough one of the guides was broke in half and the cheap crap plastic adjuster had failed. Thats why I got the Steel ones if they fail they stay up.

Last edited by ceasefire49; 02-24-2019 at 08:42 AM.
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