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??? If you're talking about the alignment pin in the phaser that orients it properly to the cam --- I don't think so. The cam is at full advance (out of the box) and the 5th finger appears to be pointing at the "L" - which would be correct positioning for cam to gear markings. Cam lobes (and phaser) appear to be rotated clockwise (normal operating direction) a little too far. Your other photo did not come through but you stated the 'Keyway' is at 12:00 o'clock. (That should put the crank 'Dot' at about 7:00). Assuming the Left bank appears similarly too far 'clockwise', I would rotate the engine counterclockwise (backwards) a few degrees - approx. 10-15º to put crank dot at 6:00 o'clock, then check things out. Its much easier to lign up the single colored link(s) on bottom with crank sprocket at 6:00 o'clock.
Then if you need further verification, you can 'count chain links'. 30 Links from (but not including the colored link straddling crank dot) up to (but NOT including or straddling) the Cam timing mark --- BOTH ways, on BOTH sides. Then it's correct.
drivers side seems to be on the money to me maybe I'm wrong
Well, I sorta agree the driver's side looks about right ------- BUT, if ONLY if the crank dot is at 6:00 o'clock. If were still sitting with 'KeyWay' at 12:00 - all bets are off as the driver's side would look a little to the counter' clockwise side to me. Needs to look like these pictures - and I have to rely on you as to the crank dot.
Have you counted links as described above? And have you checked part numbers real close. There is a difference in Cams between 2004 and certain later models. There is a several degree difference in the cam alignment pin.
Hey guys so I bought a 2005 f150 a year and half ago and heard what sounded like a diesel while idling. Took to Ford to have looked at and they said yeah this is very common for the 5.4 the cam phasers may be stuck in place or even broke. They said that it's not something that I needed to fix right now but something to definitely get done in the near future.
I was driving home from work yesterday and the idler for the serpentine belt bearing broke causing truck to ultimately cause me to stop and get towed. I replaced the idlers throughout and new belt and to my surprise the so called cam phasers issue disappeared!!!! So if u are having this issue this may be something to check into. Check all pulleys/idlers.
Sorry if my wording is not correct I'm not too mechanical savvy but enough to do little work. Good luck hope this helps for some of you.
question about camshaft position durring timing set replacment
2004 F150 5.4 3 valve: so everything is removed front cover valve covers and I am ready to remove timing chain components and cam phasers to replace with new.
Is this true: "If the engine is currently in-time, rotate the crankshaft so that the keyway is in the 11 to 12 o'clock position. Ford does specify removing certain cam followers, but it isn't required" This is from a site http://www.expertswrite.net/ford-5-4...t.html?start=1
I have the crankshaft tool to put it in the 11 o'clock position, I am worried that my cam will roll out of position as soon as chains come off. I really would like to avoid taking off three roller followers from each side if possible
tcl65
question about camshaft position during timing set replacement
2004 F150 5.4 3 valve: so everything is removed front cover valve covers and I am ready to remove timing chain components and cam phasers to replace with new.
Is this true: "If the engine is currently in-time, rotate the crankshaft so that the keyway is in the 11 to 12 o'clock position. Ford does specify removing certain cam followers, but it isn't required" This is from a site http://www.expertswrite.net/ford-5-4...t.html?start=1
I have the crankshaft tool to put it in the 11 o'clock position, I am worried that my cam will roll out of position as soon as chains come off. I really would like to avoid taking off three roller followers from each side if possible
tcl65
If the crank is set with crank sprocket 'DOT' at 6:00 o'clock (Keyway at 11:00) - on #1 compression stroke as shown in the diagram in Post #3462 above, valve spring tension against certain roller/followers WILL force the cam to move --- slightly --- (counter clockwise). However, that is because 'valves' are "CLOSING" under spring tension and will NOT result in valve contact or any damage.
When you put new phasers on, and start to put chains on (AND LIGNED UP), you will HAVE to move the cam back 'against' the valve spring tension to get marks to align with Phaser Mark. AGAIN, this will NOT cause valve contact. Only moves cam lobes back where they WERE.
I did mine this way. HOWEVER, you will need a helper to use a breaker bar or wrench on phaser bolt to force it to proper place. It takes more force than you might think, and the person putting the chain on just about cannot do both.
If the crank is set with crank sprocket 'DOT' at 6:00 o'clock (Keyway at 11:00) - on #1 compression stroke as shown in the diagram in Post #3462 above, valve spring tension against certain roller/followers WILL force the cam to move --- slightly --- (counter clockwise). However, that is because 'valves' are "CLOSING" under spring tension and will NOT result in valve contact or any damage.
When you put new phasers on, and start to put chains on (AND LIGNED UP), you will HAVE to move the cam back 'against' the valve spring tension to get marks to align with Phaser Mark. AGAIN, this will NOT cause valve contact. Only moves cam lobes back where they WERE.
I did mine this way. HOWEVER, you will need a helper to use a breaker bar or wrench on phaser bolt to force it to proper place. It takes more force than you might think, and the person putting the chain on just about cannot do both.
Thanks for quick Father’s Day response
after I get the one and five intake lopes in the right position
with crankshaft keyway at 11 I seen a video where the guy puts vice grips between lobes to keep cam from rotating counterclockwise
from what you say that’s not necessary
thanks in advance
tcl65
You can certainly do the vice grip thing. I wouldn't discourage it, especially If you MUST do the job alone. But even so, the old chain is going to be worn (stretched) slightly and I doubt the new chain would drop on exactly aligned without 'tweeking' things.
You can certainly do the vice grip thing. I wouldn't discourage it, especially If you MUST do the job alone. But even so, the old chain is going to be worn (stretched) slightly and I doubt the new chain would drop on exactly aligned without 'tweeking' things.
Getting ready to tackle this job, top to bottom. Truck is running ok, but chain slap on startup, and other ticking noises definitely associated with the phasers and valve train. Currently on page 219, decided to read the entire thread, ha! Will be posting up when I am ready to order parts!
05-09-2018, 12:59 PM
