F150Torqued

The phaser on Bank 1 is 180 degrees out - assuming the photos were both taken at the same time (without moving crank). 5th finger should be pointing generally downward and the "R" should be on top - around 1:00 oclock - with respect to crank-to-Phaser (12:00 o'clock with respect to earth) on the phaser.


Please give me a call. Number is on your PMs


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EDIT:


In the Photos, cam lobes on cyl 5 are approximately in the right position (but things have been moved and colored links are in different locations. Looks like possibly rotated 10 to 15 revs. Colored links move 1 link position for each revolution). But cam & phaser on bank 1 is 180 degrees out of phase. I would not move crank. I'm actually a little surprised if no valve contact has occurred with full rotations in this state (but I can't swear anything more as I have never tried THAT). But you are flirting with disaster here.


Please give me a call.


Can anyone else out there who has done this job help me out here! --- P L E A S E

Keshka

At this point....personally, I would remove both cam shafts (DON'T mix up the caps or followers!!!). Then you will need a precision way to measure the length of each valve stem as it protrudes from the head. This will give a good indication if a valve has been bent. An alternative, perform a leak down test of each cylinder with cams off.

Holden1986

Hey F150Torqued, I just going to do it the right way. I will just remove both camshafts as well as the followers and do it that way. Trying to do it the cheap way has caused me to waste a butt load of time!

F150Torqued

^^^ I agree with @keshka. If the relationship of valves as to pistons is not accurate when engine is rotated - not knowing exactly how that relationship was displaced - a slight contact between piston / valve might not even be noticeable while turning the crank. The valve has nowhere to go with cam lobe / roller holding it down.


I _think_ we know it was rotated - and things were not timed correctly (possibly 180 out on one bank). With BOTH camshafts OUR - all valves should be closed. You could almost tell if there was a problem by using a piece of heater hose and 'blowing' into spark plug holes. If a valve was not seating - you'd be able to freely blow air into the cylinder.


Then start from SCRATCH timing it - with the recommended followers still out.

Holden1986

I could have sworn someone said long as the chains are on you are fine from bent valves. Maybe I misread something, Last question I have is when both camshafts and roller followers are out, you can freely set and time the engine correct?

F150Torqued

Thanks. You had me on the edge of my chair ! (Not that I mind helping someone out. But I sure don't want to carelessly lead anyone into disaster). Keep us posted. And with Pics.

F150Torqued

Yes. With cams & followers 'OUT' you can ' run the starter' if you wanted to as no valves are going to be opening.


With Just followers out - you can spin the camshafts freely too.

Holden1986

Will do man and def thanks again for the consistent help.

Holden1986

Do you recommend the tool for placing each roller follower back in or can you just lay the camshaft back in facing the right direction as listed? Reason why I asked if because I was reading from this guy here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...of-attack.html

F150Torqued

I hated the damn spring compression tool. Threw the damn thing against the front wall of my garage.

I put in all new rollers and lash adjusters. Ultimately did just what you are suggesting. Just sit ALL rollers in place and 'VERY GENTLY' set cams in place (in proper orientation). Only knocked a roller or two off a couple of times. When ALL in place, put cam caps on and snugged them down little bit at a time till snug and torqued. As it happens, the pictures of my timing job are in the link you included above.

Of course - I put phasers and chains on AFTER reinstalling cams / all lifters etc. So that's why I had to have a helper help 'torque' passenger phaser clockwise about 20 degrees to get chain links to lign up on passenger side.


EDIT


You can actually 'pop' them out and in fairly easily with a husky screwdriver if the roller is on camshaft HEAL. Haven't done this, but I can see that if you timed the thing with ALL followers OUT. Then once chains are on and in time, you could rotate the crank to place camshaft 'heal' properly at bottom for each follower in turn and pop them in with a screwdriver.