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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

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Old 11-20-2017, 07:49 PM
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^^^ GR8


Thanks for reporting
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Old 11-21-2017, 12:59 AM
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Sa_weet!
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Old 11-21-2017, 11:36 PM
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Just to clarify, is a loud metallic "tickita-tickita" (literally what it sounds like and how long. Say it twice and that's the duration) the sound of timing chain? Because it doesn't sound like metal hitting plastic. And it happens randomly upon start up. Or is that the top end rotating dry until pressure builds?
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Old 11-24-2017, 11:43 AM
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Hey all, is there a way to correct a minor timing error without all of the roller followers and such removed? Like if your phaser jumps a few teeth counter clockwise while timing etc? It wasn't a full rotation it just barely made a 90 degree.
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Old 11-24-2017, 03:19 PM
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Only while Timing Cover and tone ring are off. Otherwise you can't see the crankshaft sprocket dot (or determine which link is at absolute 6:00 o'clock.)


Aside the above limitations - if your engine has been rotated and colored links have 'walked' and can't be used --. You can _very carefully_ "COUNT" links.


Beginning at (but NOT including) the link that 'straddles' the crank sprocket dot (at the absolute bottom of crankshaft sprocket - with sprocket marks @ 11:6 o'clock), count EXACTLY 30 links up to (just before but not covering) the Phaser Mark - BOTH DIRECTIONS, on BOTH SIDES.


Be aware. Once engine is rotated one revolution, the colored links will NOT lign up the same again for 122 crankshaft revolutions. (In 61 revolutions, the colored links will lign up again -BUT will be on the opposite phase (exhaust stroke).

Last edited by F150Torqued; 11-24-2017 at 03:29 PM. Reason: added 11:6 o'clock for clarity
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Old 11-24-2017, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued View Post
Only while Timing Cover and tone ring are off. Otherwise you can't see the crankshaft sprocket dot (or determine which link is at absolute 6:00 o'clock.)


Aside the above limitations - if your engine has been rotated and colored links have 'walked' and can't be used --. You can _very carefully_ "COUNT" links.


Beginning at (but NOT including) the link that 'straddles' the crank sprocket dot (at the absolute bottom of crankshaft sprocket - with sprocket marks @ 11:6 o'clock), count EXACTLY 30 links up to (just before but not covering) the Phaser Mark - BOTH DIRECTIONS, on BOTH SIDES.


Be aware. Once engine is rotated one revolution, the colored links will NOT lign up the same again for 122 crankshaft revolutions. (In 61 revolutions, the colored links will lign up again -BUT will be on the opposite phase (exhaust stroke).
Well I'm good on the colored links, I bought the set that was on amazon that fordtechmakuloco recommended. I had everything perfect and thought the dang on cam on the passenger side was locked and the damn thing went a few teeth lol. Ok, so I need to rotate 61 one times for it to line up perfect when out of time on one bank? Because I managed to time the driver side bank just fine, there was less resistance it seemed. I def see why they recommended removing the roller followers. All of the lobes and rollers from what I can see look to be in great condition. Also is there a way to know if you bent some valves while timing?

Last edited by Holden1986; 11-24-2017 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 11-24-2017, 08:54 PM
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The effect of a bent valve is - it won't close because the valve stem will not go back into the valve guide. You would know that by a roller/follower - lash adjuster will be SLOPPY loose. Probably the roller follower would just fall out for lack of having tension on it while on the heal of the cam lobe.


If I suspected chains out of time because something jumped --- I would not want to be 'rotating' the engine 61 (or even a single) revolution. I'd just go forward (or backward gently) to TDC on Cyl 1, then COUNT LINKS to get bank 1 timed correct AND DOUBLE CHECKING BANK 2, also by counting links. If you have to remove the tensioner arm and tensioner to get chain slack enough to move the phaser / chain relationship, you are going to have trouble with the tensioner plunger if grenade pin is pulled. DAMN. It just gets worse and worse. If they are metal ratcheting type - I'm out of ideas. Might have to replace it.. ?????
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Old 11-25-2017, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by F150Torqued View Post
The effect of a bent valve is - it won't close because the valve stem will not go back into the valve guide. You would know that by a roller/follower - lash adjuster will be SLOPPY loose. Probably the roller follower would just fall out for lack of having tension on it while on the heal of the cam lobe.


If I suspected chains out of time because something jumped --- I would not want to be 'rotating' the engine 61 (or even a single) revolution. I'd just go forward (or backward gently) to TDC on Cyl 1, then COUNT LINKS to get bank 1 timed correct AND DOUBLE CHECKING BANK 2, also by counting links. If you have to remove the tensioner arm and tensioner to get chain slack enough to move the phaser / chain relationship, you are going to have trouble with the tensioner plunger if grenade pin is pulled. DAMN. It just gets worse and worse. If they are metal ratcheting type - I'm out of ideas. Might have to replace it.. ?????
F150Torqued, I really appreciate all of the help you've have been giving me. I believe I might be good. I timed the drivers side and finally got the passenger side. The question I have is, once you time one bank will it always stay in time long as no teeth slip? Because I matched all of the dots as listed and everything is perfect. I moved to passenger side and did the same thing, but I had to rotate the crank a few times.
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Old 11-25-2017, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Holden1986 View Post
...


I moved to passenger side and did the same thing, but I had to rotate the crank a few times.
WOW! or I should say "Wooh Trigger". Stop!
What does that mean??? Were you trying to get 'colored links' in the correct spot on the Bank 2 chain - which wasn't the same on Drivers side? /// Not that the colored links are that important. They just keep you from having to count links. The two colored links are exactly 30 links from the single colored one. Other than the distance between them, they make no difference.///

If you moved crankshaft - AT ALL - between putting chains on separate sides !!!!!!!!!!!!!! the crankshaft would HAVE TO HAVE BEEN rotated an "_EVEN_" number of revolutions to have both banks synncronized with their respective intake / exhaust strokes. NOTE: Crank turns two revolutions to the CAM's one.

Please - please answer some of these questions before proceeding. THIS is SERIOUS. BOTH SIDES HAVE TO BE TIMED TO THE SAME INTAKE / EXHAUST STROKE.
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Old 11-25-2017, 11:33 AM
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Make Sure every thing looks like THIS with Crankshaft sprocket dot at 6:00 o'clock position












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