The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
11-21-2017, 11:36 PM
#3343
Senior Member
Just to clarify, is a loud metallic "tickita-tickita" (literally what it sounds like and how long. Say it twice and that's the duration) the sound of timing chain? Because it doesn't sound like metal hitting plastic. And it happens randomly upon start up. Or is that the top end rotating dry until pressure builds?
11-24-2017, 11:43 AM
#3344
Hey all, is there a way to correct a minor timing error without all of the roller followers and such removed? Like if your phaser jumps a few teeth counter clockwise while timing etc? It wasn't a full rotation it just barely made a 90 degree.
11-24-2017, 03:19 PM
#3345
LightningRod
Only while Timing Cover and tone ring are off. Otherwise you can't see the crankshaft sprocket dot (or determine which link is at absolute 6:00 o'clock.)
Aside the above limitations - if your engine has been rotated and colored links have 'walked' and can't be used --. You can _very carefully_ "COUNT" links.
Beginning at (but NOT including) the link that 'straddles' the crank sprocket dot (at the absolute bottom of crankshaft sprocket - with sprocket marks @ 11:6 o'clock), count EXACTLY 30 links up to (just before but not covering) the Phaser Mark - BOTH DIRECTIONS, on BOTH SIDES.
Be aware. Once engine is rotated one revolution, the colored links will NOT lign up the same again for 122 crankshaft revolutions. (In 61 revolutions, the colored links will lign up again -BUT will be on the opposite phase (exhaust stroke).
Aside the above limitations - if your engine has been rotated and colored links have 'walked' and can't be used --. You can _very carefully_ "COUNT" links.
Beginning at (but NOT including) the link that 'straddles' the crank sprocket dot (at the absolute bottom of crankshaft sprocket - with sprocket marks @ 11:6 o'clock), count EXACTLY 30 links up to (just before but not covering) the Phaser Mark - BOTH DIRECTIONS, on BOTH SIDES.
Be aware. Once engine is rotated one revolution, the colored links will NOT lign up the same again for 122 crankshaft revolutions. (In 61 revolutions, the colored links will lign up again -BUT will be on the opposite phase (exhaust stroke).
Last edited by F150Torqued; 11-24-2017 at 03:29 PM. Reason: added 11:6 o'clock for clarity
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Holden1986 (11-25-2017)
11-24-2017, 05:26 PM
#3346
Only while Timing Cover and tone ring are off. Otherwise you can't see the crankshaft sprocket dot (or determine which link is at absolute 6:00 o'clock.)
Aside the above limitations - if your engine has been rotated and colored links have 'walked' and can't be used --. You can _very carefully_ "COUNT" links.
Beginning at (but NOT including) the link that 'straddles' the crank sprocket dot (at the absolute bottom of crankshaft sprocket - with sprocket marks @ 11:6 o'clock), count EXACTLY 30 links up to (just before but not covering) the Phaser Mark - BOTH DIRECTIONS, on BOTH SIDES.
Be aware. Once engine is rotated one revolution, the colored links will NOT lign up the same again for 122 crankshaft revolutions. (In 61 revolutions, the colored links will lign up again -BUT will be on the opposite phase (exhaust stroke).
Aside the above limitations - if your engine has been rotated and colored links have 'walked' and can't be used --. You can _very carefully_ "COUNT" links.
Beginning at (but NOT including) the link that 'straddles' the crank sprocket dot (at the absolute bottom of crankshaft sprocket - with sprocket marks @ 11:6 o'clock), count EXACTLY 30 links up to (just before but not covering) the Phaser Mark - BOTH DIRECTIONS, on BOTH SIDES.
Be aware. Once engine is rotated one revolution, the colored links will NOT lign up the same again for 122 crankshaft revolutions. (In 61 revolutions, the colored links will lign up again -BUT will be on the opposite phase (exhaust stroke).
Last edited by Holden1986; 11-24-2017 at 05:58 PM.
11-24-2017, 08:54 PM
#3347
LightningRod
The effect of a bent valve is - it won't close because the valve stem will not go back into the valve guide. You would know that by a roller/follower - lash adjuster will be SLOPPY loose. Probably the roller follower would just fall out for lack of having tension on it while on the heal of the cam lobe.
If I suspected chains out of time because something jumped --- I would not want to be 'rotating' the engine 61 (or even a single) revolution. I'd just go forward (or backward gently) to TDC on Cyl 1, then COUNT LINKS to get bank 1 timed correct AND DOUBLE CHECKING BANK 2, also by counting links. If you have to remove the tensioner arm and tensioner to get chain slack enough to move the phaser / chain relationship, you are going to have trouble with the tensioner plunger if grenade pin is pulled. DAMN. It just gets worse and worse. If they are metal ratcheting type - I'm out of ideas. Might have to replace it.. ?????
If I suspected chains out of time because something jumped --- I would not want to be 'rotating' the engine 61 (or even a single) revolution. I'd just go forward (or backward gently) to TDC on Cyl 1, then COUNT LINKS to get bank 1 timed correct AND DOUBLE CHECKING BANK 2, also by counting links. If you have to remove the tensioner arm and tensioner to get chain slack enough to move the phaser / chain relationship, you are going to have trouble with the tensioner plunger if grenade pin is pulled. DAMN. It just gets worse and worse. If they are metal ratcheting type - I'm out of ideas. Might have to replace it.. ?????
The following users liked this post:
Holden1986 (11-25-2017)
11-25-2017, 10:37 AM
#3348
The effect of a bent valve is - it won't close because the valve stem will not go back into the valve guide. You would know that by a roller/follower - lash adjuster will be SLOPPY loose. Probably the roller follower would just fall out for lack of having tension on it while on the heal of the cam lobe.
If I suspected chains out of time because something jumped --- I would not want to be 'rotating' the engine 61 (or even a single) revolution. I'd just go forward (or backward gently) to TDC on Cyl 1, then COUNT LINKS to get bank 1 timed correct AND DOUBLE CHECKING BANK 2, also by counting links. If you have to remove the tensioner arm and tensioner to get chain slack enough to move the phaser / chain relationship, you are going to have trouble with the tensioner plunger if grenade pin is pulled. DAMN. It just gets worse and worse. If they are metal ratcheting type - I'm out of ideas. Might have to replace it.. ?????
If I suspected chains out of time because something jumped --- I would not want to be 'rotating' the engine 61 (or even a single) revolution. I'd just go forward (or backward gently) to TDC on Cyl 1, then COUNT LINKS to get bank 1 timed correct AND DOUBLE CHECKING BANK 2, also by counting links. If you have to remove the tensioner arm and tensioner to get chain slack enough to move the phaser / chain relationship, you are going to have trouble with the tensioner plunger if grenade pin is pulled. DAMN. It just gets worse and worse. If they are metal ratcheting type - I'm out of ideas. Might have to replace it.. ?????
11-25-2017, 11:10 AM
#3349
LightningRod
What does that mean??? Were you trying to get 'colored links' in the correct spot on the Bank 2 chain - which wasn't the same on Drivers side? /// Not that the colored links are that important. They just keep you from having to count links. The two colored links are exactly 30 links from the single colored one. Other than the distance between them, they make no difference.///
If you moved crankshaft - AT ALL - between putting chains on separate sides !!!!!!!!!!!!!! the crankshaft would HAVE TO HAVE BEEN rotated an "_EVEN_" number of revolutions to have both banks synncronized with their respective intake / exhaust strokes. NOTE: Crank turns two revolutions to the CAM's one.
Please - please answer some of these questions before proceeding. THIS is SERIOUS. BOTH SIDES HAVE TO BE TIMED TO THE SAME INTAKE / EXHAUST STROKE.
