Brackets, as in the accumulator on the firewall or as in the compressor on the motor (or both)? Thanks for the tips!

 

@F150Torqued
Well job finished and she runs great. In my case the readings from Torque showing sever retard on the passenger side was a result of a failed tensioner. See FordTechMakuloco's video at the 33:00 minute mark....mine looked exactly the same!

I had ordered a complete timing set from ebay from this outfit for $122
[URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-5-4LFord-F150-F250-Lincoln-3V-Timing-Chain-Kit-Cam-Phaser-Timing-cover-Seal/401303287163?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649"[/URL]

also ordered an oil pump [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Oil-Pump-HIGH-PERF-Fit-Ford-4-6L-5-4L-Explorer-F150-Navigator-24V-04-10-DM340HP/162612152401?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2057872.m2749.l2649"[/URL]

yea yea...I know FTM says don't even use aftermarket parts but I will tell you the quality and machine work (especially the phazers) was fantastic. This comes from my experience as a machinist for 40 years and an automotive machinist for 5 years. I have rebuilt well over 1000 engines and would use parts from this company again.

Keshka

 

That is GREAT news @Keshka. And thanks for sharing it. Would be great to see a Torque Pro screenshot of cam phaser gauges or graph of them working perfectly.


Now wish some of that good fortune on @harveje!

 

2006 F150 5.4 3V with 182K miles

Question. After having read the above post about the tensioner as well as watching all four of the video series as well as other videos, it seems to me that my problem is the passenger side tensioner. The rattle goes away after oil pressure builds.

Instead of buying all the tools (only to use one time) and the phasers, chains, guides, etc. What's the chances of me pulling the valve covers and front cover and just replacing BOTH tensioners? I could save hundreds of dollars and solve my cold start rattle issue.

2 ea. tensioners
2 ea. valve cover gaskets
1 ea. front cover oil seal and rubber seals

Where am I going wrong here?

 

I will snag some screen shots for all and as a side note, that PID for (I think it was requested advance) that we could not figure out why it didn't work must have had something to do with the original failure of my VCT as after the repairs, it now shows good data....hmmm!

 

Wow! That's crazy. It is easy to view OBD readings like readings from devices, or sensors, or actuators -- but in reality everything is processed inside the PCM before it is presented on an OBD PID (port). Even voltage readings from O2 sensors are read by A-to-D converters in the PCM and the reading posted in A/D counts or converted to volts or whatever. In the case of Requested retard ---- That is a value the PCM has calculated as the optimum desired retard under the current driving conditions - then stored in a memory location accessible by OBDII at the specified PID. How that was getting 'whacked' is BEYOND ME.


Glad it's cleaned up now.

 

here is a working screen shot, all values look good now. As an added note. I ended up with a misfire on cyl 5 after a day of driving. Following FordTechMakuloco's advice, I removed and cleaned the boot on 5 and 6, cleaned the hole it goes in and lubed with silicone grease. Swapped the coil from 5 and 6 to see if problem moved....but in the end.....no more problem. Cleaning fixed it.

 

@Keshka


I am still baffled (and concerned) by the reading Torque Pro is producing for your RCAM reading. I have mentioned this before - and I notice in this screenshot the highest value has been 2, lowest Zero.

This value is calculated in the PCM and stored at its PID location (available to OBDII readers - like Torque) and used internally / programmatically in the PCM's 'positive feedback' routines to compare against actual retard readings determined from the CMP sensors. Any discrepancy = CamError.


Understanding the flexibility of Torque (whereby we can modify the equation which stands between the OBDII port output - and the display screen), it seems There HAS TO BE an error in the formula for PID # 16CD (RCAM) whereby we are displaying what amounts to garbage data. The ole (garbage in / garbage out scenario).


Can you verify the formula is essentially ABS(SIGNED(A)*256)+B)/12.8


I say 'essentially' because THAT is what I have in mine right now. However, the phenomenal flexibility of Torque Pro would allow us to place the parentheses in different places to make the ABS trash the decimal differently depending on what we wish to display on gauges. (You know if you are using a Digital gauge display - you can specify number of decimal places ON the gauge settings). But for now I would like to make sure your equation is producing something reasonable from the OBDII data.


** ALSO ** (Credits to @harveje) I have found and determined there is a 'SECOND' Requested Retard signal generated by the PCM for the Cam on Bank 2. !!!! It is at PID # 091C, and the equation is identical to the above. I would like to see what the results of THAT PID is on your truck.

I have updated the list of PIDs and 'CSV' file on my Phaser Monitor screen in this Post:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...4/#post5133357

/// I had NO IDEA the PCM would maintain a separate retard setting for each bank. I supposed THAT is how it is able to determine certain things like when the IMRC runners are not working on one bank or the other even though they are linked together with ONE control mechanism. ///

 

The kit you used is quite inexspensive. The listing doesn't even say who manufactures the pieces.
Im sure it looks like good quality but man I don't know.
I mean Ford screwed it up with what seems to be mainly a weak seal on the tensionsers. From what I read I think the whole issue stems from the failed tensioner seals starving other items of oil and slapping and breaking the guide rails.

 

I was leary as well, but I can also tell you the phazers are the update version as well as the tensioners.

Additionally, a little about me, stubborn as a rock, military officer (retired) and the never take no the first time around kinda person. OEM parts better! So say ye, so say we all, BUT! If OEM are so good then why did it fail in the first place? At $122 I can do this .....oh what? 6 or 7 times for the same money?

Do it again you say? Here goes that stubborn **** again. As you guessed I am an old buzzard. Lean over the radiator to do a job like this? Oh hell no! Not happening.....Did I strip the entire front end off my truck, spot welds and all? Yes I did. Was I able to walk up to the flywheel when I was done? Yes I could. Result....Now I can see what the hell I am working on and my back does not pay. Took me about two hours to strip the front as I was being careful and not knowing the route. I could do it in an hour today. Putting it all back....well I did not want to re-weld what I drilled out because I may have reason to be back in there. So I devised a system of counter sunk 1/4 bolts and Bellevue washers to replace the spot welds (worked great!) and she is all back together and looking pretty and running smmmmmmoooooooth!

Long and short of it? I have more time than money. I can afford to redo it if needed, if the reverse was true, I would hire it done and make someone else responsible for it.