All of my problems were related to something really stupid, and every time it was because I forgot to plug something back in. After I did the timing equipment, it was because I forgot to plug the tb back in.

 

I took my truck out for the first extended ride after all of the repairs. Still has the tick but ran smoothly, until I took it up a pretty good grade. The engine started sputtering and hesitating when it down shifted. If I let off the gas is smoothed out but then did the same thing when I stepped on it for more speed. Any suggestions?? coils maybe??

 

My suggestion is to keep driving. Hopefully you'll have enough "events" on that ignition cycle to throw a code. Then there's less guesswork.

 

The only codes it threw out before the repairs was bad coils. I should have just kept driving it after replacing those. But the ticking was driving me nuts !
Now its just a thorn in my side, but I can't let it defeat me! I have to figure it out. ha, ha !!

 

New to the thread but have followed it for some time now. I have a 2004 FX4 5.4 3v that has ticked/knocked since the day I bought it 3 years ago with 140xxx miles. Now has 190xxx. Truck has always ran very well, idles fine (I have my edge programmer increase the RPMs at idle by 300 rpm, so it idles at 800-900rpm when oil is at operating temp), no misfiring, no codes, replaced plugs maybe 20xxx miles ago as preventative maintenance, always change oil with Mobil1 5w20 full synthetic and always use motorcraft FL-820S filter. Change fuel filter every year, and has always been very well maintaned. No problems at all, just slight tick/knock after engine has reached operating temp.

I was changing 4 idler/tensioner pulleys and serp belt last weekend, and I accidently broke a head off a pulley bolt. Drilled it out and finally got it out with an easy out, but it cracked the timing cover and then the nub/post that the pulley rides on broke off...

It was a huge hassle, tried to fix it but failed and the whole cover had to be replaced. So I found a used timing cover on eBay for $50, so I ordered it. Upon pulling valve covers and front cover, I found tons of play in drivers side chain, both tensioner arms/guides were cracked, but not to the point where there was a ton of plastic pieces in oil pan. Pulled spark plugs again, went fine. Rotated crank so the dot was at 6:00, and keyway was at 11:00. Put visegrips behind phasers and removes both chains, guides, tensioners, and crank sprocket. Pulled off both cam phasers which both look to be just fine, spring in tact. Thought about replacing them, and using lockouts but decided not to. So I am only replacing chains, guides, tensioners, and crank sprocket.

Upon all the research I have done, it sounds like the tensioner seals go bad which causes slack in the chain causing the guides to break. In the 1997-2001 5.4 2v f150 engines (same block as the 3v), they use Iron tensioners, and the guides and chains are the same. Call me crazy but I am going to order the 1997-2001 Cloyes 9-0391SX timing kit, compare the parts to my old parts, and if they match, I will install. Here is a link the to 2v and 3v Cloyes timing kit from RockAuto. The parts in the pictures look identicle except the tensioners, 3v are plastic junk with a seal that blows, the 2v is iron, which will bolt directly to the iron block, no seal needed.

Cloyes 9-0391SX
97-01 F150 5.4 2v Timing kit

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecata...ktemplate=true


Cloyes 9-0391SB
04-10 F150 5.4 3v Timing kit

http://www.rockauto.com/m/mobilecata...ktemplate=true

I will keep everyone updated on how it goes.

 

Watch this video I found reguarding my post above

 

Another really good video I found that shows clearly how to set up and time a 5.4 3v the correct way, if you have already pulled off valve covers, timing cover, and all timing components.


Note::: If you are replacing more than just phasers (using the wedge tool), and you are pulling the front timing cover, before you take off any timing components;

1.) Pull spark plugs first thing, so that when you crank engine by hand, there isnt compression in the cylinders

2.) put a 1 1/4 or 32mm six point socket over the crank snout, and turn it CLOCKWISE, until the DOT of the crank sprocket is at 6:00 (very bottom), leaving the keyway notch at 11:00!

3.) once that is set, put vise grips on cams directly behind phasers to ensure they dont move too much (they may move a tad which is fine)

4.) then take off guides, tensioners, chains, etc.

5.) clean everything up real good, put new parts on, match up chain markings as shown in the video, then once everything is hand tightened, rotate the engine a couple times by hand with the 32mm or 1 1/4 socket clockwise again to ensure ur timing marks hit the marks on the sprocket/phaser gears the correct spot every time

6.) torque everything down to spec, reasamble, prime oil pump by putting pedal to floor then crank engine for a couple seconds, then start engine and hopefully ya did it right!

 

please correct me if I am wrong, but I dont believe your timing marks will line up every time. the sprockets are not the same size. I think the gearing is like 3 to one.

 

You are correct, they will not.

 

When I did mine I used the kit for the 3V (Cloyes 9-0391SB) and the tensioners for the 2V (cloyes 9-5338 & cloyes 9-5339), so now I have an extra set of the plastic tensioners that came with the 3V kit . I did not use the seals mentioned in the video and it worked fine for me. No more rattle at start up and no more tick when warm, since I also changed the cam phasers, lash adjusters and followers. According to the video it sounds like you could just use the whole kit for the 2V and save some money. I did not notice a difference in quality of the timing chains, but I might not have compared them that closely.