The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound
#141
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Osawatomie, Kansas
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Sometimes it would run ok and others I would restart it and it would want to die again right away.
#142
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I had the same issue with stalling after the engine was warm. I would shift to neutral when coming to a stop and give it gas to keep it from stalling. When I got the timing cover and components off I noticed the seal for both tensioners was eaten away and there were aluminum shavings in the tensioners (from the chain contacting the timing cover due to a broke guide). I've replaced the chains, tensioners, guides, crank sprocket, and phasers but haven't had time to finish the reassembly. I should be up and running sometime this weekend. I'll post an update after I get everything together.
Is it possible for a bad cam or crank sensor to cause the issues you are seeing? What are the engine codes you have gotten?
Is it possible for a bad cam or crank sensor to cause the issues you are seeing? What are the engine codes you have gotten?
#143
i think the mistake i made was telling the tech to get all parts from Ford, i did check on some of the parts and they do not mark them up much at all, so all in all i am really happy how it drives nice and quiet more power, shifts so smooth and with new tires (Michellen) and Bilsteins on all corners rides like a dream, so now it is just all about breaking the news to my wife
#144
Ford Enthusiast
Originally Posted by klinge.t
I had the same issue with stalling after the engine was warm. I would shift to neutral when coming to a stop and give it gas to keep it from stalling. When I got the timing cover and components off I noticed the seal for both tensioners was eaten away and there were aluminum shavings in the tensioners (from the chain contacting the timing cover due to a broke guide). I've replaced the chains, tensioners, guides, crank sprocket, and phasers but haven't had time to finish the reassembly. I should be up and running sometime this weekend. I'll post an update after I get everything together.
Is it possible for a bad cam or crank sensor to cause the issues you are seeing? What are the engine codes you have gotten?
#145
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ok now mine is getting REALLY strange. Call the shop to get a quote for a jasper engine since we are dealing with a lawyer about everything since all this started under the 30 days we bought it, the lawyer said to get a quote for a new engine and we will go from there with the dealership we bought it from since they don't want to help at all.
Well I called the shop and asked if the engine was sludged at all, he said no or they wouldnt of touched it. Asked about the broke guide and he said that it broke where it mounted and when they "pushed" it together they couldnt see where any pieces were missing, but he said that something also "could" of fallen into the engine and down to the pan. Asked about the valve body and he said it was cleaned and also cleaned the vct sensors. Asked about those and if they could be clogged inside since they still had the "screens" on them and he said it was possible and he also comfirmed that ford did in fact change them to a smaller opening on the bottom with a whole new different part number.
Now get this....after all this he tells me he actually picked it up from ford yesterday and drove it and it drove perfect, no tick no nothing. He didnt know if it was because it has sat for 2 weeks or what but he said he drove it 45 minutes and it warmed up and everything without a problem. Now the temperture today is only like 55, so could the oil just be "thicker" and not getting to the 20 weight? I AM COMPLETELY STUMPED AT THIS POINT!!!!!
Well I called the shop and asked if the engine was sludged at all, he said no or they wouldnt of touched it. Asked about the broke guide and he said that it broke where it mounted and when they "pushed" it together they couldnt see where any pieces were missing, but he said that something also "could" of fallen into the engine and down to the pan. Asked about the valve body and he said it was cleaned and also cleaned the vct sensors. Asked about those and if they could be clogged inside since they still had the "screens" on them and he said it was possible and he also comfirmed that ford did in fact change them to a smaller opening on the bottom with a whole new different part number.
Now get this....after all this he tells me he actually picked it up from ford yesterday and drove it and it drove perfect, no tick no nothing. He didnt know if it was because it has sat for 2 weeks or what but he said he drove it 45 minutes and it warmed up and everything without a problem. Now the temperture today is only like 55, so could the oil just be "thicker" and not getting to the 20 weight? I AM COMPLETELY STUMPED AT THIS POINT!!!!!
#146
Great thread and information for s_vares! I've read a lot of VCT/Cam phaser threads and there is often a lot of misinformation out there. For example, a lot of people keep calling the VCT solenoid the VCT sensor, which is just wrong.
Anyway, I wanted to take advantage of the knowledgeable folks on here. I have the 'normal' noise covered by the TSB. This is the one where there is no noise on cold start-up, but when warmed up, there is a rattly type noise on tip in from idle. There is no noise at normal steady idle speed. To quote the TSB:
So, sure enough, my noise goes away when I unplug the solenoids, so I have this 'normal' condition, supposedly from the solenoids cycling oil to the phasers. The TSB says NOT to repair this condition, but while its reassuring that this is not a damaging condition, it is self-serving from Ford's perspective.
So, my question is which component is actually is causing this noise? Is it coming from the solenoids, or is it coming from the phasers? Clearly, since the noise didn't occur when new, this is a wear related condition. And, such a condition should be fixable by replacing some parts. The question is, which parts? I'm willing to replace the VCT solenoids and seals, as that is easy and less than $200 in parts. But if it's still actually the cam phasers that is causing the noise, then replacing solenoids won't do any good. Unplugging the solenoids only disabled the VCT system, hence stopping the phasers from working, so no noise. My guess is that the rattly noise is still coming from the phasers, and if I want to have a quiet tip-in, I'd probably have to replace those.
Thought from the experts?
Anyway, I wanted to take advantage of the knowledgeable folks on here. I have the 'normal' noise covered by the TSB. This is the one where there is no noise on cold start-up, but when warmed up, there is a rattly type noise on tip in from idle. There is no noise at normal steady idle speed. To quote the TSB:
SOME CUSTOMERS MAY BE CONCERNED WITH TICK/RATTLE NOISES FROM THE VARIABLE CAM TIMING (VCT) ON LIGHT TIP-IN ACCEL BETWEEN 800-1200 RPM. THIS CONDITION MAY BE MOST NOTICEABLE OPERATING VEHICLE IN CONFINED AREAS SUCH AS A DRIVE-THRU. THE NOISE IS ELIMINATED WHEN VCT SOLENOIDS ARE UNPLUGGED. THIS CONDITION SHOULD BE CONSIDERED A NORMAL CHARACTERISTIC OF THE ENGINE.
So, my question is which component is actually is causing this noise? Is it coming from the solenoids, or is it coming from the phasers? Clearly, since the noise didn't occur when new, this is a wear related condition. And, such a condition should be fixable by replacing some parts. The question is, which parts? I'm willing to replace the VCT solenoids and seals, as that is easy and less than $200 in parts. But if it's still actually the cam phasers that is causing the noise, then replacing solenoids won't do any good. Unplugging the solenoids only disabled the VCT system, hence stopping the phasers from working, so no noise. My guess is that the rattly noise is still coming from the phasers, and if I want to have a quiet tip-in, I'd probably have to replace those.
Thought from the experts?
Last edited by pooch; 04-14-2012 at 03:49 PM.
#147
Great thread and information for s_vares! I've read a lot of VCT/Cam phaser threads and there is often a lot of misinformation out there. For example, a lot of people keep calling the VCT solenoid the VCT sensor, which is just wrong.
Anyway, I wanted to take advantage of the knowledgeable folks on here. I have the 'normal' noise covered by the TSB. This is the one where there is no noise on cold start-up, but when warmed up, there is a rattly type noise on tip in from idle. There is no noise at normal steady idle speed. To quote the TSB:
So, sure enough, my noise goes away when I unplug the solenoids, so I have this 'normal' condition, supposedly from the solenoids cycling oil to the phasers. The TSB says NOT to repair this condition, but while its reassuring that this is not a damaging condition, it is self-serving from Ford's perspective.
So, my question is which component is actually is causing this noise? Is it coming from the solenoids, or is it coming from the phasers? Clearly, since the noise didn't occur when new, this is a wear related condition. And, such a condition should be fixable by replacing some parts. The question is, which parts? I'm willing to replace the VCT solenoids and seals, as that is easy and less than $200 in parts. But if it's still actually the cam phasers that is causing the noise, then replacing solenoids won't do any good. Unplugging the solenoids only disabled the VCT system, hence stopping the phasers from working, so no noise. My guess is that the rattly noise is still coming from the phasers, and if I want to have a quiet tip-in, I'd probably have to replace those.
Thought from the experts?
Anyway, I wanted to take advantage of the knowledgeable folks on here. I have the 'normal' noise covered by the TSB. This is the one where there is no noise on cold start-up, but when warmed up, there is a rattly type noise on tip in from idle. There is no noise at normal steady idle speed. To quote the TSB:
So, sure enough, my noise goes away when I unplug the solenoids, so I have this 'normal' condition, supposedly from the solenoids cycling oil to the phasers. The TSB says NOT to repair this condition, but while its reassuring that this is not a damaging condition, it is self-serving from Ford's perspective.
So, my question is which component is actually is causing this noise? Is it coming from the solenoids, or is it coming from the phasers? Clearly, since the noise didn't occur when new, this is a wear related condition. And, such a condition should be fixable by replacing some parts. The question is, which parts? I'm willing to replace the VCT solenoids and seals, as that is easy and less than $200 in parts. But if it's still actually the cam phasers that is causing the noise, then replacing solenoids won't do any good. Unplugging the solenoids only disabled the VCT system, hence stopping the phasers from working, so no noise. My guess is that the rattly noise is still coming from the phasers, and if I want to have a quiet tip-in, I'd probably have to replace those.
Thought from the experts?
#148
Ford Enthusiast
Originally Posted by screw04
Im not a expert by any means but do it all the first time. For the extra money do the timing kit, phasers, and the vct solonoids all at once
However vct solenoids can be changed with the valve covers on so that's not a big deal...they are not usually the problem either..
#149
Well, that was my whole point. The solenoids can be changed easily, while the phasers require more work (removing valve covers, cam followers, camshaft, etc). But if, as you point out, the solenoids are not the source of the noise or the problem, then it doesn't solve anything. I was just trying to determine if they can indeed contribute any noise, or if it's all the phasers, in which case there is really no choice but to change them.
#150
Ford Enthusiast
Originally Posted by pooch
Well, that was my whole point. The solenoids can be changed easily, while the phasers require more work (removing valve covers, cam followers, camshaft, etc). But if, as you point out, the solenoids are not the source of the noise or the problem, then it doesn't solve anything. I was just trying to determine if they can indeed contribute any noise, or if it's all the phasers, in which case there is really no choice but to change them.