International96

Hi guys. I know, yet another exhaust thread, but I haven't seen these specific questions asked and answered yet, so here goes.

I had posted this question in one of my other posts, but I thought a new topic would be better for a response.

I recently removed the OEM factory muffler assembly. I didn't cut it, so I could re-install it again if I want.

I have an 8' bed with the regular cab. The extension pipe that goes behind the cab is there, as well as the cats. Is there anything I should be aware of running this setup for long term?

Its definitely a lot louder and more obnoxious at times, but at certain RPM's it sounds really good for just a muffler delete.

I'm looking into getting a new muffler for it, but I'm unsure of which one to get. I have a lot of raw sound right now without the muffler, so I'd want something that's loud outside yet refined, and still quiet in the cab. Any good ideas out there?

Right now, I'm kinda interested in the Borla XR-1, or the Flowmaster Super 40, Super 44, or Super 10. Any other ones you guys recommend? Borla, while probably the nicest, is the most expensive.

Once I do get one, I plan on installing a turndown to let it echo off the pavement.

Also, other than the Super 10 where you have to weld it in place, are the others I listed need to welded also? Or can they just bolt in place of the OEM muffler using the original hardware?

I'm curious to know if this setup I have now is ok to run long term? I don't want to put the factory exhaust back on unless I have to, as it was a pain to remove.

Thanks!

SCORGE

I ran true duals from the manifold on back. Kept the cats . Ran it through thrush welded, double stacked underneath the passenger side of the cab
I'm a supercrew though

International96

Thanks Scorge, I appreciate it.
I think for mine, I'm wanting to run it SI-SO like how the factory had it, plus it keeps the cost down.

Anyone else have any recommendations or suggestions for a good muffler?

asovey42

Without a muffler you will lose some back pressure, I believe the only problem it causees is increased fuel consumption. I heard this somewhere but don't know how much truth there is to it.

As far as a good muffler goes, one made of stainless is going to resist rusting, also you pay for what you get, lower price will mean the metal it's made will be thin gauge with shotty wields.

For sound, a straight through design is going to produce sound and power close to that of a straight pipe, a chambered design(flowmaster) is a little quieter with a more unique sound due to the way the sound bounces off of the baffles, then there is the turbo style that is a few decibels louder then OEM.

Hope this helps you decide. I think Cherry Bomb makes a fairly inexpensive straight through muffler. Nothing will be as loud as not having a muffler though. And the closer the exhaust leaves the cab the louder it will be in the cab.

dukedkt442

I welded in the cherry bomb glasspack in place of factory muffler and resonator, and loved the sound. Far better than the garbage flowmaster that was on it previously. I liked the sound so much I bought two more for my Olds. Something like $26 at Jegs, who has their own red off brand (made by cherry bomb?) for in the teens.

asovey42

Thrush makes a glass pack pretty cheap too, picked one up from o'Reilly for pretty cheap to put on my old s10, hooked it up right off the y-pipe and had to go get an extension pipe after the first drive due to how loud it was with it right under the cab.

International96

Warning: long message..

Great advice asovey, I really appreciate it. Thats gonna help me a lot. I have noticed just slight bit of power loss when accelerating compared to the OEM muffler I unbolted. The truck really screams when I floor it up the highway (practically almost the only way to drive at certain times it as its slow to build power anyway, haha). The main reason I removed my muffler was because it was cheap, and I was ready for a change from the quiet, haha.

I got a muffler I'm gonna pick up from a fellow church member friend of mine that he's giving to me for free. I think he said its a Flowmaster, but I don't know what model it is. He said it came off a car of his (he owns a local small car dealership in a city close to me). I should be picking it up tomorrow hopefully.

My cousin has a true dual Flowmaster Super 10 exhaust on his '02 Silverado with the 5.3L. That thing is loud but sounds really good. He keeps telling me I need a Flowmaster Super 40 or 44, haha. His brother (also my cousin) had a Super 44 on a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 with the 4.7L that sounded good too, but then he got tired of it and went straight pipe, haha.

There's a video of an '06 F-150 4.6L with the Super 44 that sounded really good.

The cheapest exhaust, yet one that sounds good, is what I'm after, so I think you and Duke hit the nail in the coffin as far as bang for your buck

Thanks Duke. Yeah, I've heard mixed reviews about Flowmaster, some say its a good, yet some not so much. Kinda a tough decision, as there's so many options. I got the Borla XR-1 idea from Summers22 with his 2017 5.0L.

I do have a question for both of you..Regarding that muffler I mentioned above I'm hopefully getting tomorrow. Assuming it fits, I plan on bolting it in place using the hardware I removed from the stock muffler assembly to test it initially, and I like it, keep it that way. Would this work as a long term installation solution, or would I be better off getting it welded on?

(If need be, my uncle is a welder, so thats a plus, but I'd have to convince him pretty good to do it, haha.)

I really want to thank both of you for your valuable help and insight. Its greatly appreciated!


Edit: This is a question about the Gott's intake mod that you guys might be able to help me with. I have some 3" PVC sewer pipe (the thin type). I just bought the 3"-4" in band clamps for that today. When I cut it, what would be the best length to cut it to? Keep in mind my engine is the ol' reliable 4.6L 2v.

Thanks!

dukedkt442

Stainless hardware would do you fine, along with making removal easier.

International96

That's for sure, I figured it'd probably be best to use new hardware. When I unbolted the factory assembly, the bolt holding the two pipe connections together was torqued TIGHT! (I mean really tight) It was a bear to undo, but I got it (had to douse it in WD-40 as its been on there awhile).

Still waiting on the muffler, as I had thought I'd get it the other day, but I've been waiting for like a month now, haha.

Anyway, I did the Gott's mod yesterday.

I did it a little bit differently than most probably would, but it works. I used 3" schedule 30 or 20 PVC, so I didn't have to grind or sand down anything. I didn't think to buy the rubber coupler but I did buy those clamps..I used some heat to fit the pipe into the intake port, then used some thermal (actual ductwork) tape and to seal the connections. I think it'll work just as good as the rubber coupler.

I also have vinyl seats, as you can see, haha.

I think there is some more torque down low and some better throttle response, so its definitely worth the almost free (only like $2) price.

International96

Just a quick update to the thread.

I got the muffler I've been waiting on from a member of my church. I ended up getting a 23" 87510CB Cherry Bomb Glasspack. The inlet outlet ends are 2-1/4" size, so correct me if I'm wrong here, I'll need some 2.5" to 2-1/4" adapters to mount this, right?

Thanks!