So come to find out, I have an manifold exhaust leak on the passenger side. Something I did not want to happen right now, especially when i was going to use my money for some wheels! I called Ford to see what it would cost and for labor and new gasket would run $825!!!! And that's if there are no broken bolts or any other things gone wrong.

My question to all on the site is can this project be done by an "average mechanic?" I have never messed with exhaust manifolds, but with good instructions I can for take this project on myself. The actual taking apart and putting back doesnt seem difficult it is just the time it takes to do it correctly. I don't care how long it takes really, because I have a spare vehicle that I can drive for the time being.

I have looked for step by step instructions but I have been unable to find any that made sense. If anyone can point me in the right direction or give me some insight on this project as far good things to do prior, and things to watch out for would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

Yep, you can do it. First, go out and see if you can access all the manifold bolts with the tools you have. Do you need a particular extension? Deep sockets? I can say for sure that a half inch ratchet and 6 sided socket will give you better torque in removing exhaust bolts or nuts. If you don't have the tools, either go get a good set, or decide to have it done. Any brackets in the way of getting to the bolts? These are things to check. You may not have to remove the manifold from the down tube; there may be enough room to pull it back from the engine once the bolts to the head are removed. It was this way on my 4.2 V6.

Next, plan to soak the bolts/nuts with some PB Blaster, or comperable penetrating oil the night before. Getting the manifold at engine temp will help the penetrate get into the threads, helping you break them loose. When you turn them, loosen, then tighten for the first turn and a half as to help clean the threads and preventing them from binding.

My motto: if I can touch the bolt, I can remove it!

 

I can't speak to the integrity of the bolts on these motors, but in my previous F250 a couple broke off and were a PITA to get out. As far as replacing manifolds, you can usually get by with unbolting (if none break) replacing the gasket, and bolting in the new one. If you unbolt your midpipe to move it more it can make it easier. This is assuming the 5.4 leaves you enough room to move around

If the bolts don't budge, I would use a portable torch on them, and follow it with bolt "freezer" stuff (at any autoparts store.) The change in temp can help free up rust. Also, like Bucko said, PB Blaster for a few nights before you do it

 

^ that's a great motto, and also true! Pb blaster is a good suggestion but if you can get your hands on kroil it will work even better! And also like bucko said use a 6 point socket. They are less likely to round off the nut

 

I had mine done by a mechanic in town. I believe the bill was around $1300 for the new part and new gasket. More than like there is a crack and its not just the gasket. I know they weren't too excited to do it. Seemed like a lot of labor and TIGHT spaces. Keep us in the loop

 

Wow 1300? That's crazy

 

If it's that much, buy a set of shorty headers and use them as exact replacement for the stock headers. They provide better exhaust balance; not as good as a set of long headers, but a direct replacement for cast OEM headers, cheaper, and a slight performance gain over stock.

 

Absolutely! I've seen a kit that was all stainless that consisted of long tube headers down into high flow cats for about the same money. I'd rather go that route and do it myself then pay 13 Hun for. One stock manifold and have it put on

 

Thanks for the input. Yeah I figured instead of spending $800-$1000 just for a gasket, I would take the time to do it myself and just buy new shorty headers. With shorty headers do they fit up right to the rest of the stock piping or is there other stuff I need to get. I also read a bit about having to take off the motor mount bolts to raise the motor a couple inches to get better access on the right side. Is this correct or just non sense talk. Thanks again guys! This forum is by far the best tool to have if you are a DIYer.

 

They (the decent ones) are direct replacement for stock manifolds. That's what makes them popular as a replacement for a stock, cracked OEM exhaust manifold.

Again, not as good performance wise as the long tube headers, but they do not require any welding, or custom fitting as the long tube headers do.