Over the weekend I ended up putting a longer power wire and moving my amp to my backseats because I bought a new Atrend 10" sub box. So What I did was use #2 copper(THWN for residential..it's all copper right?) Then at the fuse I split to #4 which is actually a car audio power wire. I mounted the amp almost center of the back seats(I have an extened cab). and grounded to the metal plate that the shroud to access the seats is on. Now it was fine overnight, but the next day I started my truck and moved it, then rinsed it off ( I had inches thick of mud from work underneath on EVERYTHING) and after I noticed my rear light stayed on, not the reverse or brake lights, so I ignored it like a dummy and by the time I started my truck it was dead.


After i jump it my dome lights and that light are always on,which I may add I have had the battery die several times at the drive in or with my previous 1 10" subwoofer. I am going to buy a replacement battery.(With a higher CCA obviously) but what could I have done to get only the domes/door ajar(which isnt showing up on my dash) lights to stay on all the time? Could I have fried something jumping it?

 

Check to make sure you're not jumping current off of the supply to the ground, also, check the dimmer switch to make sure that it's not rolled all the way to the top because that will turn your dome and cargo light on... I had a similar issue in my old truck where the edge of the power wire to the amp was touching the casing around the amp and was letting current flow into the ground..had the electronics in the truck doing all sorts of weird crap...but the dome light this sounds like a switch to me.

 

Check door switches also.... ^^^^ and I agree it sounds like a switch is telling the lights to be on...