Electrical or fuel related?
01-14-2018, 02:16 AM
#1
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Electrical or fuel related?
Hoping someone here can help. So about 3 week about my 2004 F150 8cyl 4x4 stalled out while driving. While on side of the road I had my hazards on, before the tow truck could come they eventually died out. Took the truck to advanced auto to have battery and alternator tested. They told me battery was bad (11 volts) and alternator was good. Replaced battery and truck had been driving fine until today when it did the same thing. Stalled out while driving home. The truck will now start for a minute and then stall out. When it stalls the battery and check engine light comes on but the battery gauge says it’s charged. Could it be the alternator and the guy just made a mistake? I’ve been also reading about the Fuel pump module driver and the symptoms sound similar? I’m at a loss here and any help would be appreciated.
01-14-2018, 08:06 AM
#2
Senior Member
I’m going electrical... You obviously had a bad batt if the hazards lasted that long... I’m thinking your bad batt took the alternator with it. Don’t rely on your dash gauge, it’s pretty much just for show.
I’d start with recharging the batt to full then having the alternator tested. Sounds like it isn’t charging to me and the vehicle is running off the battery until there’s no longer enough voltage to fire the coils. If bad, I’d recommend a quality replacement... box stores are known to use inferior voltage regulators which our trucks hate! Find a Motorcraft reman or one remaned by BBB Industries.
You may also inspect your FPDM as a preventative, if corroded, replace with never version that raises the pop-metal off the frame brace.
I’d start with recharging the batt to full then having the alternator tested. Sounds like it isn’t charging to me and the vehicle is running off the battery until there’s no longer enough voltage to fire the coils. If bad, I’d recommend a quality replacement... box stores are known to use inferior voltage regulators which our trucks hate! Find a Motorcraft reman or one remaned by BBB Industries.
You may also inspect your FPDM as a preventative, if corroded, replace with never version that raises the pop-metal off the frame brace.
01-14-2018, 01:09 PM
#3
Senior Member
The first half of your story does not surprise me. Auto parts stores sell a LOT of batteries with their volt meters. A perfectly healthy battery that has been discharged with a load (like the lights left on) will "test" bad with a simple volt meter. I suspect your culprit has been the alternator all along.
-- Also, as suggested above, don't buy a PepZone/Autoquest/O'Kragen part. The PCM will probably hate it. Pony up and go to Ford. Then buy some Band-aids for the bite they took out of your butt. It's going to be $300+ but it'll probably run well over 100K mi. without any problems.
-- Also, as suggested above, don't buy a PepZone/Autoquest/O'Kragen part. The PCM will probably hate it. Pony up and go to Ford. Then buy some Band-aids for the bite they took out of your butt. It's going to be $300+ but it'll probably run well over 100K mi. without any problems.
Last edited by PerryB; 01-14-2018 at 05:30 PM.
01-14-2018, 04:37 PM
#4
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
By all means replace the fpdm its only a matter of time before it goes bad
It will drive you crazy .
As far as the alternator --Use a good digital meter with truck running you should get over 14vdc ,you can compare to another good car .
Both of these items can cause these symptoms.
As far as the alternator --Use a good digital meter with truck running you should get over 14vdc ,you can compare to another good car .
Both of these items can cause these symptoms.
01-14-2018, 08:06 PM
#5
Senior Member
Was the engine running when they got 11 volts at the battery. (I assume so since they were testing the alternator too.) If it was running then I think the alternator would be the reason there was only 11 volts which means it is bad.
01-15-2018, 08:53 AM
#6
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Replace the alternator with a motorcraft reman...our trucks are very picky when it comes to the voltage regulators inside the alternator...