Ecobuilder

Hard to discern what work you have done on it. Did you do a full timing job?

redfishtd

A lot of alum filing come from timing cover, loose chain will rub against cover grinding it down . Metal shaving maybe excessive end play on crank shaft ,check for end play, new thrust washers usually not a good long term fix . . Get your magnet out to find out . There are timing jobs and something less .Chains stretch after awhile and tensioners can't tighten them up,you need the new gears to go with the chain for a good fit . .Plastic tensioners not a good idea old style steel ratcheting tensioners much better .
The newest oil pump is a melling 340hv , plus you must clean out oil pu screen . Don't think much of the oem oil pump ,I had to use the 360 melling .
Tell us if you did a short cut version of timing job non oem etc . We are not an I told you so bunch but info is necessary to give you a path forward . It is curious why you have filing after filter makes me worry about valve train .

David Hampton

I did do a complete timing job.

David Hampton

I followed the guide here, and bought parts from from his rock auto links.

The Final Repair Guide to 5.4 Cam Phaser Tick/Knock Sound

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/camshaft-timing-errors-p0022-p0011-p0021-p0340-p0345-p0171-367814/index2/#post5815142

F150Torqued

@David Hampton

Been lurking / watching. Sorry for your troubles - especially after all the work.

Was curious. Q&A. These things have been mentioned before by @redfishtd and @Ecobuilder. But, you mentioned removing the pan in Post #6, this thread. DID you do that and check/clean pickup screen as part of your timing job? Also, DID you replace the OIL pump with a high flow model - or at least replace it? Have you checked for 'end play' in the crankshaft? (The shavings you mention on VCT screens have to come from someplace DOWNSTREAM from the Oil Filter. That sounds 'scary' and could be from crankshaft 'thrust washers' or cam journals - etc - but from within the oiling galleys, and a variable valve timing KILLER.

The P2106 code is a totally different problem and likely caused your earlier loss of power situation. It is definately in either a sticky throttle body, the throttle actuator or throttle body position sensor. Safety logic in the PCM is quick to shut you down a little when they do not stay in sync.

David Hampton

No, i don't believe we checked the pan after the timing job. Sounds like i was supposed to

That didn't occur to me. I thought he had mentioned removing the pan as a way to diagnose if the guides were broken, and i had already decided a timing job was necessary anyways. And it was, guides were broken, chain loose, phasers fell apart when you took them off.

I believe my mechanic checked the crankshaft. He said there the new chain was super tight, and there was no play anywhere.

David Hampton

I took it down to the dealer, to have them diagnose it, and they said they couldn't control the timing because i had low oil pressure, likely because i had something gunking up or locking oil channels somewhere. They said the damage is likely extensive enough that it probably makes more sense to put in a new motor than try and fix it.

I found some re-manufactured engines here that seem to be trustworthy, and other users on the forums had mentioned success with them. They claim to fix the issues with the original motor as described on this page. Like smaller cam journals, bigger oil pump, ect. I think at this point, a new motor seems less hassle and easier to guarantee a fix at this point as well.

http://www.ford54engines.com/54targe...SAAEgLwBPD_BwE

redfishtd

You have little to lose at this point . Use external gauge to check oil pressure . Dealers always want to put new motor in . See if you can get some real miles out of it .
You can see end play and crank condition when oil pan off . Anytime guides are broken you must clean out oil pan and pu .

redfishtd

The most common p2106 failure is a bad throttle body or the wires to it . Mine was the whole body $200 . Thats the motor/circuit board on it and new throttle pos sensor altogether . That fixes mechanical failure and electric failure sometimes an intermittent source of trouble . The pcm will not tolerate it acting up so into limp mode you go .

Ecobuilder

Definitely get the oil pan dropped and any pieces cleaned out along with the oil pick up tube/screen. The pick up tube unbolts easily so you could flush it out with some solvent or brake clean. Not all that hard to do - just some time.

Didn't see if you had the oil pump replaced with the Melling 340/360 HV series, but would have been recommended.

You could also run a couple short OCI using Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra and the MC FL820S oil filter (or equivalent Wix) replacing 1 qt. of oil with 1 qt. Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) to clean out the oil galleys/path. This proven to work for my situation as I had a severely sludged engine and now have a beautifully running 5.4.