David Hampton

Hello All,

I have a 2004 F150 FX4 5.4L. I noticed some shaking, and a check engine light. I received the following error codes:

P0022, P0011, P0021, P0340, P0345

Then i changed both timing solenoids and deleted the codes. They popped back up again with a new one, P0171.

Here's the code descriptions:

P0022 - Intake camshaft position timing - over-retarded bank 2
P0011 - Intake camshaft position timing - over-advanced bank 1
P0021 - Intake camshaft position timing - over-advanced bank 2
P0340 - camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction
P0345 - camshaft position sensor A circuit(bank 2)
P0171 - system too lean

Any ideas what i need to do next?

redfishtd

Maybe a timing job in your future . I guess the best cheapest thing to do is open oil pan and see if plastic is in there from broken guides . If they are then you know you are in for a timing job .
Of course you need to read svares the final fix sticky .
The next thing is to see how the valve train looks, pull those valve covers , look at cams and the amount of varnish you have .
This engine operates on good clean oil hydraulically moving cams thru pcm to vcts to cam phasors .
There are screens and small passages to jam up . If you decide to tackle the timing job you can save a lot of money . Even newer trucks can fail like this . Don't fall for the new engine change fix unless she's really bad .That's like $ 7500.
My timing job took about $ 1400 to finish and you need another vehicle if you take your time doing it . Beats the heck out of buying a new truck .
It is too late to clean engine at this point it will jam up everything if you try an engine flush . I flushed mine just before I knew I was going to shut it down for the timing job and it made things worse but I knew it would . I would only do that to help clean her out and do the complete timing job .
I still manually cleaned the engine when I had her open .
If you do it you will get help on here and 99% of owners can do it if they have the will .
Use oem parts ,no junk in there , clean vcts and housings out . Use oem phasors there are reasons they cost so much . Set your engine at tdc on no 1 ,cams facing as per manual on number 1 and 5 , crank gear dot at six oclock . Do this before removing chains .
Plan on lifting cams later ,you are going to check all rollers and lash adjusters anyway . If Hi milaege replace them all .
Use new iron tensioners instead of plastic ones .
Yes you will hate that power steering mount when this is over .. Change your profile to add your mileage and history of what fixes you have already tried it helps us to evaluate where you need help .
Come back with your findings and plans .

F150Torqued

???????? Maybe ??????


I agree 100% with EVERYTHING else.

David Hampton

Thanks for the detailed response. It sounds like i'm in for a ride

F150Torqued

Although it may seem like it - it is really not the end of the world. "Denial" is your biggest enemy, so limit parts throwing to those that sould be replaced anyway - "VCT Solenoids" - and stay away from the Stealership and cheap mechanics. They're recommendation will likely be to replace the engine - or they'll just screw it up. If old guys like me and @redfishtd can do it, I have confidence you can too.


I like @redfishtd's approach - drop the oil pan first thing. It is something that costs $NOTHING$ except the effort. And if you find pieces of guides in there - you should have removed the pan and cleaned it out as part of a phaser/chain replacement job anyway. Many make the mistake of NOT going to the extra trouble and phaser problems continue to dog them.


There is a good step by step "HOW TO" here for the 4X4: http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-...ml#post5179731 somewhat more effort than our 2wd's - but not enough to try avoiding it, so like @redfishtd says, just go there first (or at least second after trying new VCT solenoids and solenoid seals - like most of us did).


Good luck.

David Hampton

Update
=============

I have not taken down the oil pan yet, but that sounds like a good idea.

I did run some seafoam though the oil for a little bit, but my truck eventually instead of a little shake here and there, started low idling, and i found myself dying at stops.

Because of the camshaft sensor errors, a mechanic buddy of my recommended replace the camshaft sensors first since they are cheap and easy. So i replaced both of those, and when i reread the codes and i was only getting the one P0345 code.

Then i put in a new crankshaft sensor too, which was also cheap last night, but its still low idling and dying. But at least i guess we know its not those.

Now after rereading the codes though, i have two, one being a new error i haven't seen yet.

P2106 - Throttle Actuator Control System Forced Limited Power

===============
Next Step

Given the new information, do you think i should still proceed the same way? With the change in error codes, could this point to something else? Could i have a computer issue causing all these other sensor errors?

e2dx

I'm having the same issues as you are and I was just wondering if you have had any updates. Thanks

poptop

How many miles on it

David Hampton

UPDATE
==========================

Hey Guys, sorry for the delay as this has been on-going for some time.

I ended up replacing the CAM Phasers lose and worn, chain was lose, and guides were broken. This fixed the problem for about a month and i was able to get my emissions and plates renewed thankfully. Then the issue came back. As long as i unplugged the camshaft position sensors it ran fine, and with them in it idled poorly, stuttered, and died. Codes were still showing it was over-advanced. Not sure why, chain was super tight and everything was lined up.

I drove it for awhile trying to diagnose the problem. I replaced the VCT solenoid again noticing that the one i got from autozone vs O-Rielys were slightly different, and i had read somewhere that aftermarket VCT solenoids can cause this problem because one part of the shaft is too long creating a gap or something. When i took out the VCT solenoids i noticed metal shavings on the screens which i cleaned out. I also noticed some little metal shavings on the magnets for the camshaft position sensors which i cleaned off. Still no luck with the sensors plugged in. But ran fine with them out.

I was pulling my boat last weekend, and suddenly lost power and couldn't go over 40. I pulled off and read my codes and found misfire codes for 1 and 6, as well as system too lean code.

I verified that my coils were firing, and cleaned the plugs on those ports. This didn't work and it barely runs now, and is making some knocking noises. I think at this point i might just call in the towel, and buy an engine to swap in.

Does anyone have anyone have any recommendations for me selecting a new engine? Like where i should go, or what i should look for?

David Hampton

Had 155k i believe when this all started, now im at 170k.