Cam phasers?
04-23-2019, 12:02 PM
#11
Plugs/boots, that's classic misfire range. Use the upgraded SP546s. These engines have phaser/timing issues, but those would be accompanied by very audible warning signs. They are very sensitive to misfires if not tuned up properly and cleanly. Hopefully they're not original plugs, in which case the gaps would be large enough to have burnt out the coils, not to mention extraction consuming a weekend of your time.
04-23-2019, 12:31 PM
#12
No. The boot and spring separates from the ignition coil
Use SP-546 plugs, they don't break
Use SP-546 plugs, they don't break
04-23-2019, 12:40 PM
#13
I found the plugs you suggested on rock auto plus I find the boots and springs in a pack by themselves. 100 bucks for a tune up, starting to miss the old fashion cap and rotor days.
04-24-2019, 06:59 AM
#15
Moderator
Do a good, complete, careful plug job. By 'complete' I include new Boots & springs - an replacements for ANY broken COP clips. The boots may look OK but they dry out with age and many heat cycles, then loose their ability to insulate against the very high spark voltage. 'Complete' does not include COPs. They seldom fail, but often get corrosion on the tip to spring connection. Clean it! By 'careful' I mean hospital clean. NO greasy finger print on ceramic. Handle plugs 'carefully' - discard and don't use a dropped plug. Torque new ones properly - WITH torque wrench (25-28 ft.lbs, no more/no less). Use a small amount of dielectric grease inside plug end of Boots to help them slip onto plug and seal moisture out. Clean COP connectors (both Male/Female) with a good contact cleaner and make 'double dog' sure they SNAP properly - and make a good connection.
You might pick up some other good information from my experience with identical symptoms posted here: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
You might pick up some other good information from my experience with identical symptoms posted here: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
Make sure you do it CLEAN like stated in here.
04-24-2019, 08:12 AM
#16
04-24-2019, 08:55 AM
#17
Senior Member
Because the original spark plugs can weld themselves to the cylinder head and break into pieces when someone tries to unscrew them, leaving the bottom of the plug stuck inside the cylinder head. that is why you don't buy the same plugs the tuck came out with
04-24-2019, 09:06 AM
#18
Yeah I heard about that issue. Just wondering why it would cause the stutter I have under certain loads. Normally that would be more of a timing issue wouldn't it? When it stutters it isn't going anywhere, isn't accelerating at all in a hurry. I already ordered the plugs, boots and springs to go ahead and do a tune up
04-24-2019, 09:21 AM
#20
Moderator
Many people mistake this issue for a transmission problem but msifires are common with these engines. I don't know why they are so sensitive but I have fixed 4 or 5 misfires now by cleaning or replacing my boots and springs. It's common enough I even have a canned response for my process. Here it is
People on here are probably tired of hearing it but my last 4 or 5 misfires have all be solved with new or cleaned up boots and springs. Cost is under $40 and it sure seems to work for me. Simply remove the coil, remove the boots and spring from the bottom of the coil. Clean the contact point of spring and coil with electrical contact cleaner, put new spring on, dielectric grease on the point where the boot contacts the coil (careful to not get any on the spring or the contact point of the spring and the coil), then very carefully dielectric grease on the bottom end of the boot where it contacts ceramic of the plug but not on the spring so as to not interrupt the connection between the spring and plug, then carefully put the coil back on the plug and do the relearn process.
People on here are probably tired of hearing it but my last 4 or 5 misfires have all be solved with new or cleaned up boots and springs. Cost is under $40 and it sure seems to work for me. Simply remove the coil, remove the boots and spring from the bottom of the coil. Clean the contact point of spring and coil with electrical contact cleaner, put new spring on, dielectric grease on the point where the boot contacts the coil (careful to not get any on the spring or the contact point of the spring and the coil), then very carefully dielectric grease on the bottom end of the boot where it contacts ceramic of the plug but not on the spring so as to not interrupt the connection between the spring and plug, then carefully put the coil back on the plug and do the relearn process.
The following 2 users liked this post by BadFish523:
dukedkt442 (04-25-2019),
F150Torqued (04-24-2019)