Cab Corner and other rust
#32
Senior Member
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#34
Senior Member
I would order the rockers too.. Your gonna need them..
It's better to be looking at it than looking for it. http://raybuck.com/c-199745-repair-p...ight-duty.html
$38.50 for cab corners
$126.00 for rockers
^^^^^^^ Best deal I've found..
It's better to be looking at it than looking for it. http://raybuck.com/c-199745-repair-p...ight-duty.html
$38.50 for cab corners
$126.00 for rockers
^^^^^^^ Best deal I've found..
Thanks for the info!!..... as soon as we hit milder weather that is going to stay for awhile I am either going to dump the money and get mine fixed or just buy a new truck. My corners on both sides are now into the cab, both rockers have quite a bit of surface rust a good two feet from the corners at the moment but the rust is running like a striped *** ape heading for the front. This winter really did a number on my truck.
Again Especial86 thanks for posting that link......
#35
Senior Member
#36
I'm looking at an 05 that has the corners rotted out, and was thinking that if I get it, I can replace those myself. Found the parts at LMC Truck. Seeing there are others her who got them for less though, the links helped. Of course I will do a more thorough inspection of the truck before I buy it, if I see more then just the corners rotted and have to replace the entire rockers on a Screw, I will pass.
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I'm looking at an 05 that has the corners rotted out, and was thinking that if I get it, I can replace those myself. Found the parts at LMC Truck. Seeing there are others her who got them for less though, the links helped. Of course I will do a more thorough inspection of the truck before I buy it, if I see more then just the corners rotted and have to replace the entire rockers on a Screw, I will pass.
#38
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I'm considering cutting out the rust myself, pulling the bed, and possibly going all the way myself with the repair because I'm **** about quality.. But I might pass the buck on the welding and filler portion, and in definitely passing the buck on the paint..
I figure $1000 total if my buddy with his metal shop welds it, and my body shop down the street fills and paints it..
I'm probably going to buy the adhesive, and also plan on welding.. Then give it a try myself.. I'm no novice to body work, but I'm no expert either..
I figure if I go the adhesive route, I can glue steel inside the body to give me a (butt seam surface).. Basically, the same way you patch a hole in Sheetrock.. It should also give me some nice forgiveness with the ability to push and pull that piece to adjust how the cab corner lays into it.. So its nice and flush where the existing body and the patch meet.. An overlay joint is unacceptable IMHO..
#39
From LMC, the rockers and cab corners come to $525. While not too bad in price, it is still a lot of labor to replace them, even doing it myself as I will need to get a spot weld removal tool for the rockers. I also will need to get a CO2 bottle for my welder, if I am going to do it, do it right. I pretty much have everything else I need, might need a body hammer or two for the bed side fender wells where they are bent up, but there is not a lot of rust on the bed that I could see where panels need to be replaced, just some grinding, filling and straightening. If I do go this route, then I will give it a complete paint job, with a custom color, jambs and all. Wouldn't be the first time.
#40
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What did they quote you? What is the worst case pricing scenario?
I'm considering cutting out the rust myself, pulling the bed, and possibly going all the way myself with the repair because I'm **** about quality.. But I might pass the buck on the welding and filler portion, and in definitely passing the buck on the paint..
I figure $1000 total if my buddy with his metal shop welds it, and my body shop down the street fills and paints it..
I'm probably going to buy the adhesive, and also plan on welding.. Then give it a try myself.. I'm no novice to body work, but I'm no expert either..
I figure if I go the adhesive route, I can glue steel inside the body to give me a (butt seam surface).. Basically, the same way you patch a hole in Sheetrock.. It should also give me some nice forgiveness with the ability to push and pull that piece to adjust how the cab corner lays into it.. So its nice and flush where the existing body and the patch meet.. An overlay joint is unacceptable IMHO..
I'm considering cutting out the rust myself, pulling the bed, and possibly going all the way myself with the repair because I'm **** about quality.. But I might pass the buck on the welding and filler portion, and in definitely passing the buck on the paint..
I figure $1000 total if my buddy with his metal shop welds it, and my body shop down the street fills and paints it..
I'm probably going to buy the adhesive, and also plan on welding.. Then give it a try myself.. I'm no novice to body work, but I'm no expert either..
I figure if I go the adhesive route, I can glue steel inside the body to give me a (butt seam surface).. Basically, the same way you patch a hole in Sheetrock.. It should also give me some nice forgiveness with the ability to push and pull that piece to adjust how the cab corner lays into it.. So its nice and flush where the existing body and the patch meet.. An overlay joint is unacceptable IMHO..