A/c wiring diagram ?
I have no clue as to whether this site is safe or not, I have used it.
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Home >> Ford >> 2004 >> F 150 2WD Pickup V8-4.6L SOHC VIN W >> Repair and Diagnosis >> Diagrams >> Electrical Diagrams >> Heating and Air Conditioning >> Air Conditioner/Heater
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A wiring diagram might help but you NEED a set of gauges and a pressure cycling switch maybe
Put the gauge set on it
If the pressure is below 24 pounds on the low side, the compressor will not operate (the cycling pressure switch won't allow it)
You can jump the pressure switch with a paperclip for testing
Could just be low on freon / refrigerant
That pressure switch is on top of the accumulator / reciever drier
Put the gauge set on it
If the pressure is below 24 pounds on the low side, the compressor will not operate (the cycling pressure switch won't allow it)
You can jump the pressure switch with a paperclip for testing
Could just be low on freon / refrigerant
That pressure switch is on top of the accumulator / reciever drier
Check clutch gap first.
A reminder that this is a PCM-controlled compressor clutch. If the PCM is either seeing a fault condition or is not getting the correct inputs, it will not allow the clutch relay to be energized.
Scan the PCM for faults as certain faults will disable the compressor clutch through software. Then, check the status of the AC request input and clutch enable output.
The low and high pressure switches are in series with switched vehicle power to supply one of the needed PCM inputs (ACCS). If the PCM's programming allows given current conditions, it outputs a ground (ACCR) to the "low" side of the A/C clutch relay which should cause it to energize sending power to the clutch coil.
Both the low and high pressure switches can be jumpered to see if they're causing the issue. A paper clip is a lot more economical to use for testing than to go out any buy a switch when one doesn't know if it's bad or not. Besides, it sounds like he already went down that rabbit trail of replacing parts based on guessing and was unsuccessful.
You should have power at the clutch
If you have power at the clutch
Check the gap
When the clutch wears, the gap gets too large for the magnet to pull the clutch hub into contact with the pulley
I had to adjust the gap in my 97 to make the compressor come on
Generally, the electrical system is fail safe
I have no 04 EVTM but the above link should work for your diagram
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Check the gap
Then adjust if the clearance is too much
To adjust you pull the hub off, and there are washers behind the hub
You pack a few washers in there until the gap is correct
Should be between .014" and .030"
You set it at 20 thousandths
Then adjust if the clearance is too much
To adjust you pull the hub off, and there are washers behind the hub
You pack a few washers in there until the gap is correct
Should be between .014" and .030"
You set it at 20 thousandths
Did you not look at the schematic that was linked to?
Did you not read and fully grasp what I described in a previous post as to how the electrical side works?
Did you check the relevant fuses (see the schematic)?
Did you scan the PCM for fault codes?
If this stuff is out of your comfort or experience zone, there's going to be a learning curve, for certain. You do have to play along if you want focused assistance.
Did you not read and fully grasp what I described in a previous post as to how the electrical side works?
Did you check the relevant fuses (see the schematic)?
Did you scan the PCM for fault codes?
If this stuff is out of your comfort or experience zone, there's going to be a learning curve, for certain. You do have to play along if you want focused assistance.









