ANTI-SEIZE / ANTI-FREEZE While both are very cleverly chosen product names, they don't mean WON'T EVER SIEZE or WON'T-EVER FREEZE.


[QUOTE=F150Torqued;4301920]That's what the TSB claims - but DON'T BELIEVE IT. See this post: Followed TSB - "WITH HIGH TEMP ANTI-SIEZE" !! http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...l#post11799905 .



I would like to hear from anyone who has used it in accordance with the TSB and ran 60k or more miles and did another plug job without any breaking.

 

Plugs are cheap, why not just change them every 30,000 miles?

 

Ya my last truck had the Hemi 5.7, it took 16 plugs and recommended every 30k miles per change.

 

Is it possible there is excess ceramic left inside the tip? When you use the pusher tool, it crumbles the ceramic, which must then be blown out using an air compressor. These crumbles will prevent the extractor tool from getting a good grip, and will destroy the extractor threads. (Just ask me, since I did so on my second to last plug....)

If the electrode is preventing the extractor from going deep enough, I have heard of using a long screwdriver or drill bit to get at it. First, try bottoming out the pusher tool, followed by a thorough blow out. And, as someone else said, DO NOT freak out...there's likely a solution, and we're rooting for you!

 

@bwFX42006 The carbon builds up on the inner head surface of the long reach plug barrel, and is cumulative. IMO - you could change plugs every 5,000 miles and by the 20th change the carbon build up would bind up the SP515 barrels on removal - IF THE CARBON ACCUMULATION is not removed at some point.


I maintain it should be removed - just as anyone would do the heads if you removed the them to do a valve job.

 

So you basically use a gun barrel brush to remove the build-up? Seems that a brass brush for a shotgun would fit in there pretty easily. I would just be so hesitant of dropping it or getting it stuck in the plug well....

 

Would a nylon brush work? Might be safer if bristles fall for in? Lisle should make a special "Ford messed up" brush to go with their kit!

 

Those carbon deposits are hellisly hard - ENOUGH to twist a spark plug apart. One member reported putting an old pug in a bench vice and it took 30 ft.lbs of torque to twist it off. A nylon brush might work but I used the brass one from the HF set, just like the one pictured in this link ((Note the links Title though)). http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...lp-piease.html . For this reason, I rotate the engine to TDC on each cylinder I'm working on to avoid this.


As for bristles coming off the bruse ...? That's a valid concern. The quality of the brush seemed fine and I didn't really consider it a sugnificant possibility. It would be worth brushing something outside to see how durable they are.

 

Also, could you treat the brush in some solvent to soften the carbon, maybe some SeaFoam or equivalent? Or would that harm the engine? What a problem!

 

10-4. I used "B-12 Chemtool" rather liberally on a rag attached to a length of coat hanger. If it didn't come back clean, I'd go at it again with the bottle brush.