So essentially when I turn my headlights on my brake lights and reverse lights are on, and when I brake they turn off. The other day driving it fixed itself for about 20 min but then went right back. Disclaimer when headlights are off it works just fine. Any help would be great thank you

 

Sounds like classic description of what happens when you have a bad ground connection. If you search this forum for "ground locations" you'll find a list. I don't know if these are grounded back by the lights or near inside the cab, but that's where I would start.
also might want to make sure the bulbs are standard incandescent type, it seems like lots of led type bulbs cause problems in this application.

 

Sounds like the classic turn signal short circuit to me
The brake light wiring runs through the turn signal or multi function switch
Replace that after checking the grounds if you still have the problem

 

It's a bad ground, not a short circuit issue. It's not the headlights causing the issue, it's actually the parking lamp circuit that is triggering the fault as they share a ground with the stop and reversing lamps. It's just that the fault is more obvious with the headlights turned on since that's the way most people use their exterior lights.

Start by pulling the kick panels and inspecting the ground connections for body rot or loose connections. Start on the driver's side. G303.

If you need further assistance, provide the model year of your truck.

 

checked the grounds, both behind the kick panel. They are good and solid. 07 f150

 

see post 2

 

It is not always a bad ground post 2 and 4
Plug in a test multifunction switch Vitolo and see what happens
Better yet make sure it is plugged in good first
You did not say exactly what you are driving Vitolo, but a junkyard TS switch is next or would have been first IMO
I have several kicking around for test
Pretty common for the wires to melt when they get unplugged for a while
The connector heats up because of resistance in the wiring caused by the loose connection
So, pull the column shrouds and perform a good visual inspection, then plug in a test switch

 

throwing parts before checking the grounds seems like a strange strategy. Checking grounds is quick, easy and free. But to each their own.

 

Perform a continuity check of the ground circuit between the back of the truck's lighting and the cabin grounding points. You'll likely find it either open or high resistance.

Or, just crawl under there and, starting at the back and working forward along the left frame rail to the driver's side of the engine compartment, pull each in-line connector apart and inspect the sockets and plugs for corrosion.

 

Well, the grounds have been checked right?
Now what?
You substitute a known good part
That is right in the book in many cases, and for this problem, that is among the first steps IMO
Right, to each his own
Projects suggestion is good; you always start with a good visual inspection and that includes pulling a few connectors apart and checking for pulled out pins etc.
Carry on