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I used all Moog parts when I redid my front end about 30k miles ago. No issues.
However, only use greaseable replacement parts with a fitting if you plan on adding grease every oil change. These parts will last a long time if you do so. If you think you may forget here and there, go with sealed units.
Went with the MOOG control arms and lower ball joints off of Rockauto. Got the "problem solver" ones. The original lowers were pretty loose, lots of vertical play. After removal, I could wiggle them both up and down about 1/8". Uppers really didn't seem too bad, other than being really loose. Ran into a couple issues taking everything apart:
#1. Hub/Bearing seals (O-rings). When I took out the hubs, the skinny little O-ring that seals them up were both bad. Always wondering why my gas mileage wasn't quite up to par, I'm guessing my hubs have been locked in since I got the truck 3 years ago. Took some digging to find the part, as my bearings roll great yet and I don't want to replace them until I actually need to. The O-Ring part number (Motorcraft) is BRS97 or 1S177 or 1177. About 8 bucks a piece.
#2. 4x4 Actuator (IWE). One of the mounting tabs on the drivers side disintegrated after removing the 8mm bolt. Going to have to get a new one and install it. Don't really want to go Dorman, but need to get this done tonight and that's what I can get locally.
#3. Sway bar links. Seems like I go right through these things. 2 years on the MOOGs that I installed a couple years ago and they are shot. Going with Duralast, so when they go bad again, I can just bring them right in to AZ and get replacements for free.
Why are the Moog control arms well under a hundred bucks a piece, but a set of Icon Delta control arms from Stage3 are over $800?? Just trying to learn so when it comes time to replace mine.
the icon delta control arms are designed to give you more droop and have a proprietary ball joint that doesn't quite give you the the movement of a uniball but more than a normal balljoint. where as the Moog is a factory replacement.
you are paying likely mostly because the icons are a relatively small run of parts compared to the moogs and the R&D in creating them
Finished her up last night. It was a rough job this go around. Ended up replacing both IWE's, the one had a broken mounting tab, and the other one was locked up pretty bad.
Had an issue with one of the bolts for an IWE as well. Was torquing it down and it snapped off without much pressure. It was the one where the tab cracked off, so I'm guessing it was cracked as well. Ended up having to drill it out and tap it for a larger bolt. Not fun. Easy-outs did not do the trick, as I couldn't get it centered.
On the plus side, the new ball joints and sway bar links really improved the ride. No more chattering over bumps, and I can feel a big difference.
Now I'm going to have to chase down the famous vacuum issue. Found out I wasn't getting any vacuum to either IWE last night, so that sucks.
Didn't hesitate to replace that. Only had a little bit of time last night, so just threw it in quick and blew through the check valves since they were right there. The one closest to the solenoid is bad. I picked up a Dorman "Help" one at AZ, but haven't had a chance to put it in yet. Don't really want to buy a vacuum tester if I can help it. Kind of broke with all the repairs on the truck lately, and been doing a ton of my kid's POS Blazer as well. When I get time, I'll work through the lines one at a time and blow some WD40 through them to make sure they're clear. Also need to check out the vacuum canister. Guessing that might need some repair.
Didn't hesitate to replace that. Only had a little bit of time last night, so just threw it in quick and blew through the check valves since they were right there. The one closest to the solenoid is bad. I picked up a Dorman "Help" one at AZ, but haven't had a chance to put it in yet. Still didn't work. Don't really want to buy a vacuum tested if I can help it. Kind of broke with all the repairs on the truck lately, and been doing a ton of my kid's POS Blazer as well. When I get time, I'll work through the lines one at a time and blow some WD40 through them to make sure they're clear. Also need to check out the vacuum canister. Guessing that might need some repair.
Sweet! Got this project completed. Started with Upper Control Arms and Lower ball joints, and turned into a larger project. (typical)
Had to add new sway bar links and new IWE actuators as well. Had a bolt break off reinstalling the IWE's, so had to drill it out and retap. THEN I didn't have vacuum to them soooo.... Replaced vac solenoid, didn't take care of problem, so had to check all the lines and found a bad check valve and a plugged vac line coming from the back of the intake. Couldn't even see the connection to the intake with an inspection mirrror, so I said "screw it", and I rigged up a "T" from a different spot, ran line over to the check valve, then put in a new check valve for the bad one, a few creative connections (since the "help" check valve isn't 1/4" on both sides like the OG), hooked it all back up, and wallah!!! Hubs now disengage for 2wd. Looks like it will drastically increase my MPG for going to work, which is 50/50 stoplights and highway. Resetting the MPG calculator this morning, I used to get about 11mpg to work, and this morning got 15.5. Interested to see the results on a full tank test.
Anyone else have some hokey vacuum line fixes? Haha, as long as it works, and it most certainly does.
