Alternator Amps
08-13-2017, 01:30 PM
#11
Senior Member
08-13-2017, 01:51 PM
#12
No, I don't think it's a starter. The number matches one of the Ford numbers from one of the Ford dealer parts sites I went to. The picture of the starter is just a default info video posted on all of the Motorcraft alternators. I don't like the word economy in the description though. But, I don't want to pay upwards of $200 for one either.
Last edited by waldreps; 08-13-2017 at 02:06 PM.
08-13-2017, 02:26 PM
#13
Fordparts.com tells me to get a 110 amp GLV-8704-RM which is the cheaper one listed on RockAuto. Silverstatefordparts.com tells me to get either a 110 amp 7L3Z-10346-CRM(says it replaces 7L3Z-10346-AARM, GL-8743-RM) or 115 amp F7PZ-10346-KARM2. The 115 amp one listed there says 130 amp when you click on the description. discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net says to get a 110 amp 7L3Z-10346-AARM. O'Reilly auto parts lists GL8728RM 110 amp, GLV8950RM 130 amp, GLV8671RM 130 amp, and GL8863RM 110 amp. It makes no sense why there are so many different numbers and all for alternators that are supposed to fit my truck....and I'm ignoring the 95 amp ones.
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o6S1D9e (09-14-2021)
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o6S1D9e (09-14-2021)
08-13-2017, 09:20 PM
#15
Senior Member
Fordparts.com tells me to get a 110 amp GLV-8704-RM which is the cheaper one listed on RockAuto. Silverstatefordparts.com tells me to get either a 110 amp 7L3Z-10346-CRM(says it replaces 7L3Z-10346-AARM, GL-8743-RM) or 115 amp F7PZ-10346-KARM2. The 115 amp one listed there says 130 amp when you click on the description. discountfordpartsfromsoundford.net says to get a 110 amp 7L3Z-10346-AARM. O'Reilly auto parts lists GL8728RM 110 amp, GLV8950RM 130 amp, GLV8671RM 130 amp, and GL8863RM 110 amp. It makes no sense why there are so many different numbers and all for alternators that are supposed to fit my truck....and I'm ignoring the 95 amp ones.
If the pulley is good, and the bearings seem fine, low voltage output being the only issue, I'd say with ohhhh.....97% certainty that the brushes are just worn out.
That's what I did several years ago, no issues and I run 2 amps, crossover, aux LED lighting, and tow trailers regularly and have had zero issues and still the same battery as I had when I had the failure.
Just my 2cents tho.
08-13-2017, 09:23 PM
#16
It feels and sounds like the bearings aren't in great shape or I would explore that possibility. I don't know how long this one has been on there but judging from looks it's pretty old. Thanks though.
08-13-2017, 09:59 PM
#17
Senior Member
Yeah, if there's any sign that the pulley / bearing may be or be going bad, I'd just replace at this point.
You should probably inspect your belt while your at it as well.
If you have much doubt about ordering an alternator blindly, Just pull the old one and match the numbers if it makes you feel better.
But, I'd listen to Tech Rep, he knows what he's talking about and I'm sure he can provide you with needed info or cross reference.
08-14-2017, 11:21 PM
#18
Part #
The 110-amp motorcraft reman alternator I got that worked on my 2004 5.4 is:
GLV-8781-RM
4U2Z-10V346-AFRM
Sounds like you are second guessing the parts guy at Ford and using your own experience to get the one that is "better". I already went down that expensive, knuckle-scraping road. I can save you the pain. Get the one that the Ford parts guy suggests. I think it cross-references to the same part number I have.
GLV-8781-RM
4U2Z-10V346-AFRM
Sounds like you are second guessing the parts guy at Ford and using your own experience to get the one that is "better". I already went down that expensive, knuckle-scraping road. I can save you the pain. Get the one that the Ford parts guy suggests. I think it cross-references to the same part number I have.
Last edited by Island Truck; 08-14-2017 at 11:26 PM.
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o6S1D9e (09-14-2021)
10-19-2017, 09:19 PM
#19
Thanks so much for posting this. I just finished rebuilding the engine in my 2004 Super Crew and the alternator is charging at 14.6 volts but the battery light stays on and then I got to thinking it might be an amperage problem because the previous owner put a salvage yard alternator in it from a 2003 Lincoln Town Car (written in grease pen on the case) and it is a 130 amp unit. After reading your experience and Techrep's insistence on using the Motorcraft 110 amp, I am convinced this 130 amp unit is the issue causing the batt light to stay on even though it is charging.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
I have a 2004 XLT with the 5.4
A year or so ago, my dash light came on and I decided thatit was probably my alternator.
So I went to the official ford parts website and they hadtwo options. They had a 110 amp optionand a 130 amp option.
My window sticker (which I still have) clearly says “130 amp alternator”
So I went to my dealer (didn’t order it from the website)and asked them. They said the only option for my truck is a 110-amp reman from motorcraft.
I showed them my window sticker and I showed them the ford parts website (remember this is the actual ford parts website.. not someone else).
The dealer parts guys were curious. They called ford. Ford says use the 110 amp. At this point, I could have gone two ways. I knew if I got the 110 I would wonder, so I rolled the dice and got the 130 amp motorcraft reman.
It fit fine and the voltage was fine. But the red “battery” dash light was on andstayed on. Something was wrong.
I took it to autozone to have them check it. Their meter said the voltage regulator was bad.
So I went back to the dealer parts department and they were very cool. They gave me another motorcraft reman 130-amp alternator.
Same thing. The voltage was fine but the dash light stayed on. I took it to autozone and the charging system checked out fine.
The connector on the wire to the alternator was cracked, soI changed the wire harness from the alternator to the battery (although the crack was small and seemed unlikely to matter).
Nothing changed. The dash light stayed on and the voltage was fine.
So I went back to the dealer and got the 110 amp motorcraft reman. (which I had to buy... not complaining tho)
And that did it. The voltage was fine and the dash light was not on.
I don’t mind working on my truck like this. I knew I was going out on a limb and it didn’twork. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Interestingly, the 130 amp option is now gone from the ford parts website and it only list the 110.
I heartily recommend that you get the 110-amp motorcraft reman.
A year or so ago, my dash light came on and I decided thatit was probably my alternator.
So I went to the official ford parts website and they hadtwo options. They had a 110 amp optionand a 130 amp option.
My window sticker (which I still have) clearly says “130 amp alternator”
So I went to my dealer (didn’t order it from the website)and asked them. They said the only option for my truck is a 110-amp reman from motorcraft.
I showed them my window sticker and I showed them the ford parts website (remember this is the actual ford parts website.. not someone else).
The dealer parts guys were curious. They called ford. Ford says use the 110 amp. At this point, I could have gone two ways. I knew if I got the 110 I would wonder, so I rolled the dice and got the 130 amp motorcraft reman.
It fit fine and the voltage was fine. But the red “battery” dash light was on andstayed on. Something was wrong.
I took it to autozone to have them check it. Their meter said the voltage regulator was bad.
So I went back to the dealer parts department and they were very cool. They gave me another motorcraft reman 130-amp alternator.
Same thing. The voltage was fine but the dash light stayed on. I took it to autozone and the charging system checked out fine.
The connector on the wire to the alternator was cracked, soI changed the wire harness from the alternator to the battery (although the crack was small and seemed unlikely to matter).
Nothing changed. The dash light stayed on and the voltage was fine.
So I went back to the dealer and got the 110 amp motorcraft reman. (which I had to buy... not complaining tho)
And that did it. The voltage was fine and the dash light was not on.
I don’t mind working on my truck like this. I knew I was going out on a limb and it didn’twork. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Interestingly, the 130 amp option is now gone from the ford parts website and it only list the 110.
I heartily recommend that you get the 110-amp motorcraft reman.
10-20-2017, 09:08 PM
#20
Update: I went and picked up a good Motorcraft 110amp unit from a salvage yard today to replace that 130amp and sure enough, the battery light stays off and is now charging at 14.1 with a full battery under no load instead of 14.6.
Thanks so much for posting this. I just finished rebuilding the engine in my 2004 Super Crew and the alternator is charging at 14.6 volts but the battery light stays on and then I got to thinking it might be an amperage problem because the previous owner put a salvage yard alternator in it from a 2003 Lincoln Town Car (written in grease pen on the case) and it is a 130 amp unit. After reading your experience and Techrep's insistence on using the Motorcraft 110 amp, I am convinced this 130 amp unit is the issue causing the batt light to stay on even though it is charging.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Last edited by GooseF150; 10-21-2017 at 02:54 AM.