papa tiger

After you carefully struggle your spark plugs completely out of their respective spots make sure to completely decarbon hole, or you will damage the new spark plug putting it back in. The lower part of the 2 piece plug is easily damaged in the tight carbon filled hole. A lot of misfires can damage that catz on the side of the misfire so if you start getting downstream 2, O2 sensor codes, too rich did it probably.

ABOMB408

I just put a new set of motor craft plugs , motor craft fuel filter and my truck idles nice now. No more rough idle / shaking antenna . Just hit 100k on the ticker.

djturner

I had the same issue with my truCk and the dealer I bought it from had the worst time with it becaUse it wasn't throwing a code and they replaced all of the sensors in my truck still would drop the idle down just like yours so they replaced the whole motor so I was all happy and that I thought it wouldn't do it anymore and come to find out I took it back for like the fourth time in two months and they ended up reflashing the computer in my truck and it kicked up the rpm so it fixed it and I haven't had a single problem with it now and it is an 08 f150 with what was 28000 miles on it this past july

Scott Wright

I have a 2005 ford f150 5.4
I just replaced timing chain, cam phasers, spark plugs, solenoids, and crankshaft position sensor. First i did all the spark plugs. It was running rough so i noticed slack in the timing chain so i changed that and the solenoids. Check engine light was still on. When i started it it sounded really rough. It idled do loud and shook. So i did skme reseach thought it was the crankshaft position sensor. Now my check engine light is off but now it doesnt really want to start. I jumped it and it would idle fine at 1K rpms but any lower wanted to stall out. So i read to reset the pcm so i took the fuse out for bout 20 minutes went to start and fuse is poppin wont start. Any help????

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Popping... timing issue

redfishtd

Which is where trouble often starts on this engine . Carbon builds up around plug tips . I would not change plugs until you have lisle extraction tool on hand . Breaking one plug will put you down until you get one .
Read ford TSB on these original plugs , soak them over night with carb cleaner after loosening One eighth of a turn then after an hour or so move it back and forth the one eighth and so forth . Trying to get carb cleaner past threads without breaking plugs .
Check your vin to see what new plug goes in there as you may be in that transition year . Use oem plugs as this engine very fussy about this.
Try to clean tip area of head to get that carbon out of there as it breaks new plugs on installation .
Wholesale changing of cops are not recommended just clean the connectors and change all to new boots .Boots are a big problem they hold back 30,000 volts from jumping to the head .I don't care what they look like change them . I personally haven't had any luck with aftermarket coils.
You must get the plug system in perfect shape on this engine or it will drive you nuts . Your goal should be to get this system perfect for the next 60k miles ,don't go past that .
Misfires have to last a long time to set a code , misfires can damage your cats . Be very gentle with new plugs start by fingers and use rubber boot sockets .Torque wrench new plugs to 25-28 foot pounds , loose plugs are a big problem . Keep your hands/plugs clean , don't use anti sieze on plug tips anymore that was a temp instruction from ford until they redesigned plugs .
Do put anti sieze on cop bolts as they break off due to corrosion .
Next as you are from canada and you have extreme cooling cycles at night we have seen the oil system turn to choc cake frosting . I guess extended oil changes are common due to the cold . Don't go past 5k or long period of time as the moisture condenses in there and ruins the oil . Use full syn for your climate.
This engine uses dirty oil pressure controlled by PCM to the VCT solenoid to hydraulically move phasors /cams . Once these screens and passages get clogged you have to take it apart and clean it doing a timing job . But cams /rollers /lash adjuster may get damaged .
There is more but the plug job done correctly is where you always have to start with . A lot of shops charge too much and don't do the job correctly no matter how well you pay them .

Williamc Burgess

Mine doing the same runs good cold I got codes po 340 345 349 356 any help on codes

cmann

Please forgive me, I am new to the site and don't know how to create post so I am posting by replying. My 2006 F250 with a 5.4 engine has 199,000 miles and it recently developed a problem. It suddenly has a bad misfire and rough idle mostly at low rpm's. I have about six codes, 1. misfire cylinders 5 and 8, 2.Random misfires 3. One bank is advanced and the other is retarded. Since purchasing it two years ago when initialing starting it up in the morning there would be a brief a rattle then it would clear up, that progressively got worse. Now I can start it up and hear all cylinders firing at a high idle but when it comes back to low idle it misfires. I replaced the coils on cylinders 5 and 8 but it didn't make any difference.

kfisher

2007 F150 Lariat Crew 4x4 - 5.4L V8 Triton V3

Miles: 179,600

What is the issue?

When at idle, engine is fine on a cold start. When driving the engine shifts and runs smooth. Once the engine is at “Normal Operating Temperature” under idle after braking while in Drive or Reverse (load), the engine will begin to run rough, leading to a stall. If you feather the gas pedal, it will keep it from stalling. Repeat issue until engine is shut off. If the engine does stall if you do not feather it, you can restart the engine, however, it is a hard turn over and start. Then once restarted, engine is smooth running, but it begins to repeat the described above.

No codes thrown unfortunately either.

What I’ve done/had done:
New - Spark Plugs
New - Coil Packs as needed
New - Throttle Position Sensor
New - Catalytic Convertors (both)
New - Fuel Pump Driver Module
Cleaned - Throttle Body Plate (buttery-fly), inspected and springs to return position nicely

Looked at the Throttle Body Motor, looked clean (did not do anything with it but put back together)

Cleaned - Mass Air Flow Sensor

Looked for Vacuum leaks, unable to find any

Conducted PCM reprogramming after 30 Minutes of complete power drain and disconnection of battery. Conducted throttle position programming after the new Thottle Position Sensor was installed. Conducted PCM reprogramming again after TPS programming after 8 – 10 HRS (overnight) of complete power drain and disconnection of battery by using the following steps:

1. Turn the key to the on position (engine off)
2. Slowly depress the gas pedal all the way to the floor.
3. Quickly release the gas pedal, so that it come back up on its own.
4. Turn the key to the off position and repeat the cycle 3 times.
5. Turn the engine on.

Did the Idle Relearn:
Put gear shifter in "P" (Park), turn off all accessories. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature. Allow engine to idle for at least one minute. Turn the air conditioning on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.

Could the throttle body motor be bad? Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance for any help!

snowtires

try unplugging the vct solinoids. if that helps the issue could be the solinoids, but they are quite reliable. Check oil pressure, if oil pressure is low,
its likely is that your losing oil pressure to the vct solinoids due to leaking tensioners and a plugged up oil pickup tube. Its likely the tube is plugged with pieces of timing chain guides. The probable solution is to change the phasers, timing chains, tensioners, oil pump, and pickup tube