F150Torqued

@Area51base
Don't even attempt it on a 2004- 2007 without making arrangements for a Lisle tool BEFORE you start. Secondly, I am a very strong believer in cleaning the carbon from the spark plug hole beyond the threads before attempting to screw new (expensive) spark plugs back in. See post #865 above.
IMHO many have fractured the insulator material inside new plugs by forcing them into the "carboned up" holes, and end up still having misfire problems. See more about my experience at https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
If you do decide to do it, use caution to avoid this fellow's troubles http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...lp-piease.html
Good luck

ddc

I'm not a professional auto mechanic, but I am a very experienced industrial maintenance technician with aviation as my primary background. The new plugs used to replace the oem, lousy plugs Fomoco designed. The new design, I'm talking Champion, and the SP515 Motorcraft. The part below the threads is smaller diameter than the first design that's giving all the problems. This smaller outside diameter is to prevent the carbon from seizing the plug in place, as well as being a one piece design unlike the original plugs. You can clean out the hole if you want, but I don't it'll make much difference. Follow the steps published Fords tech bulletin, applying nickel anti seize to the portion below the threads, and "not" the threads. I don't understand why not the threads, that's opposite all I've been taught in the military, and aviation schools. That's my two cents, good luck!

motodog

I am an old guy that has had lots of dirt bikes.

We were told not to put anything on the threads! I may change the heat
dissipation from the electrode and thus change the "Heat Range".
The grease would make the plug run Hotter?

?? 2 Cents worth?

Mike
Crestline, Ca.

F150Torqued

Respectfully differing with a common element of [MENTION=112648]motodog[/MENTION] & [MENTION=13836]ddc[/MENTION] posts, I am not prepared to take a strong position on the anti seize issue, except with respect to the plug "snout" beyond the threads and how that relates to heat dissipation.
If the plug snout is not in contact with the head, either through direct contact of carbon build up or nickel anti seize, the plug tip and its ceramic insulator would get much hotter - even near the combustion chamber temperature. I believe Mike is right that anti seize (beyond the threads) would alter the "Heat Range", just like the long reach "hot" spark plugs. And I can not argue with [MENTION=13836]ddc[/MENTION] about the reasoning of applying it one place and not the other.
However, I believe this "Heat Range" effect is the whole reason Ford engineers designed the plug in this way. And I believe this is a compelling reason to remove the carbon (aside from its possibly fracturing new plugs on installation), is to limit heat into transfer into the head / water jackets. https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3932639
Electrical resistance in almost all materials increases with temperature. IMHO, this leads to a desired beneficial effect - increased dielectric strength of the insulator, thus allowing higher spark voltages without breakdown or arcing internally. While higher voltages ARE required to overcome the higher resistance of the anode, this only requires placing more windings in the secondary of the COP. And that has the added benefit of less amperage in the spark circuit - thus reducing migration (erosion) of the anode material. So the spark plugs last longer. [The opposite effect of an arc welding rod where voltage is low and amperage is very high].
I can't speak to, or confirm, the newer plugs having a smaller diameter "snout". That would be a simple solution, but it seems they should have a different part number or some TSB about it. However, the carbon build up is cumulative problem and it would only delay its occurrence. I believe deterioration of these effects cause by the carbon build up leads to (or at least aggravates) the random misfire under light load - at 45-55 mph that plagues so many of these engines, and has lead to thousands of COPs to be needlessly replaced. And it is an inexpensive and simple thing to do - while changing spark plugs.
?? I guess that's definitely more than 2 cents worth, but that's my story and I'm sticking to it Guys. lol.

Area51base

Thank you. I just ordered the plugs and the Lisle tool. I'm also ordering the motorcraft carb cleaner and high temp anti seize stuff. Is there anything I should add in the tank. I was thinking of seafoam. Any tricks/advise on adding some kind of cleaner via the vacuum tube?

melrose99

Okay guys, heres a question that might have been answered. My 07 is a flex fuel, I changed the plugs 30k miles ago with the sp515 I believe. Should I be using a different plug because its a flex fuel? I'm going to change them again and clean the intake and throttle body. Anything else I should do while at it, I'm all ears. Thanks

Tillerman17

Has this had any impact on the cost of having Ford replace the plugs?
http://topclassactions.com/lawsuit-settlements/lawsuit-news/57798-ford-settles-spark-plug-defect-class-action-lawsuits-for-2-2m/

melrose99

Law suit??? hmmmmm

FORD FAILS

I changed the plugs on our 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac yesterday. 4.6L 3V. I took all of the necessary precautions and 4 of the 8 broke. I had the correct tools to get them out and managed to get everything back together.


The problem is now the check engine light is on. Sometimes it is on solid and sometimes it flashes indicating a mis-fire.


Talking to a mechanic this morning he told me that it could cost me up to $3,000.00 to get the engine running properly again. He actually refused to look at the truck and directed me to the Ford dealership.


Not in a great mood today.

Velosprout

I have the same early-year Sport Trac, and had no problem with the initial spark plug change at 100,000 miles. Had misfire issues, however, and ended up being three coils failing and a spark plug that was not torqued down properly. Continued operation with a misfire will cause catalytic converter failure, and a check engine code for that as well. Shouldn't cost you nearly that much.


The costly issue you will have (if you haven't already) is the leaking exhaust manifolds, which require engine removal to remedy. This cost me about $3,500. which included replacing the radiator (cracked but not-yet-leaking).