I bought a used engine after having a mechanic do a timing set. He didn't pull the oil pan and my pickup tube after 10k miles clogged and the passenger side phaser let go.

Before installing the used engine I did a lockout kit, new pickup tube, Melling pump, new Cloyes timing kit, new manifolds, plugs and coils. I have not dropped the engine back in but I have buttoned everything up. I used the ford timing tool lining the crank shaft up using the block dowel. I put the phasers back on and lined the drivers side with the up arrow and the passenger side with the hash mark. The colored links split the marks perfectly and the chains went on the dot at the bottom perfectly.

Here is my question, I had the chains off and to line it up I turned the crankshaft clockwise until the tool lined it up. I think reinstalled the phasers and chains. I did not check the piston location because I used the tool. The cams were in the same spot where the phasers came off, but the crank probably went one revolution to line up. Could it be 180 out or if the alignment tool was used and the cams line up with all timing marks am I good to go? I can take the front cover back off while it's out easier than later but I thought I would ask before tearing it back down.

Thanks,

Rod

 

Not totally sure I follow your question, but I believe if you have the cams and valve train installed and tried to rotate the crank without the chains on you would find that pistons hit into valves and wouldn't be able to crank it all the way around.
the crank does rotate 2x for every time the cams rotate if that's what you're asking..

 

Turning it by hand I'm certain it didn't hit any valves. If the cams are aligned with the chains matching the crank sprocket alignment mark, I guess what I'm saying is it even possible to be 180 out? The piston doesn't know if it's a combustion or exhaust stroke, so if the cams/valves are timed to the crank, then the piston would be in the right spot if the alignment tool has it set, correct? I feel it's good but I'm just looking for someone to say, yes before I go through the trouble of dropping it in.

If someone says, wait you want to go back because of X,Y, or Z. Then I'll break it back apart.

Rod

 

Yeah, sounds like you're good to me. It the tool that just holds the crank from turning in here on the bottom of page 13?
http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common...px?FileId=9343
I think you're correct it should be good with all the marks lined up. You are correct, the piston doesn't care which stroke it is on.

Then just make sure you have the sensor ring at the bottom of page 18 on with the side marked front facing out like it should be.

 

Yes, I used an alignment tool similar to pg. 13. Mine has a crank groove to slip on the crank one way then lines up to the same tab.

I then did the same alignment on pg 19 with the phasers and chains to the crank sprocket.

The sensor ring only goes on one way so I'm sure I have it correctly installed.

Thanks, soon I'll check the moment of truth with the ignition key lol

Rod