Topic Sponsor
2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

5.4 l swap or repair

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-22-2017, 10:59 AM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Eddie Cohoon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 5.4 l swap or repair

So here's the deal. Timing guide broke. Rode the chain up and pushed thru the valve cover on passengers side. If I were to repair I'd do everything in the timing cover the pumps guides chains and phasers. But is it worth it with the possible internal damage or should I swap motors
Old 07-22-2017, 11:49 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
nrivera04's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: MS Gulf Coast
Posts: 1,794
Received 268 Likes on 247 Posts
Default

Mileage? Service history? What's the motor look like inside?
Old 07-22-2017, 12:00 PM
  #3  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Eddie Cohoon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Mileage is 190xxx. Service history is just the basic tune ups, fluid changes etc. I haven't haven't cracked it open to look inside yet so I can't say anything on that part of it. In the almost four years I've owned it I've had no big issues. Haven't had to do the alternator the starter, nothing but the battery was gonna need a change by this coming winter. Only rust on anything is the rear bumper and around the gas lid

Last edited by Eddie Cohoon; 07-22-2017 at 01:04 PM.
Old 07-22-2017, 01:24 PM
  #4  
LightningRod
 
F150Torqued's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: San Antonio Texas
Posts: 2,412
Received 643 Likes on 514 Posts

Default

If the rest of the truck ( Trans, body, interior )is in good shape and you want to keep it, here's what I would do.


Put some DUCK tape over that hole in the VC. Screw a manual aftermarket oil pressure gauge in the Oil pressure switch hole. (leave pressure switch out knowing you will get a DTC). Start it up and let it idle (Not drive it) for maybe an hour or even two hours. These trucks will run fine with busted guides. Run it until the engine and oil is at max operating temperature. Assuming it has decent oil pressure (ie: about anything above 12-14 lbs at hot idle in gear), I would shut her down, pull all the spark plugs and do a compression check recording each. The next morning, I would do another compression test cold / dry and record each.


If the compression readings across all cylinders are within 10% of each other, and no cold / dry readings exceeds 10% of its corresponding hot compression reading, I would repair it replacing everything under the FC, including oil pump.


These trucks will run fine with busted chain guides. I suspect mine did (not intentionally) for probably 10-20k miles before tearing it down at 212k after doing the above tests. The engine is as strong as when it was new.


BTW - when I tore mine down at 212k, EVERYTHING on the front was original, including all sensors, tensioners, alternator, WP, PS, A/C comp, belt - EVERYTHING.


If you do the job DIY, you have plenty of help available here.


Good luck
Old 07-22-2017, 01:39 PM
  #5  
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
 
redfishtd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: fl
Posts: 3,387
Received 628 Likes on 565 Posts

Default Well get that valve cover off and inspect cams /heads

Get oil pan off, clean out plastic and inspect bottom end .Look for metal filings. Doing a good timing job runs around $ 1400 in parts . Are you capable/willing to do the job yourself? New reman installed $7500. Damaged cams etc .that would be a reman for me .
If you have hire it done reman is probably your ticket . Me I rebuilt mine at 130k . Are you going to keep the truck for 5 years or so ? How are you gonna feel if you need a $2500 trans rebuild ?
New trucks are so expensive the interest alone will pay for a lot of repairs on this one . Realistically you can probably get 300k -350k but I doubt more on this old engine. Forget used engines they are way too expensive and have 125k mi and up .
It's your dice roll'em .
Old 07-22-2017, 02:26 PM
  #6  
Mark
iTrader: (1)
 
techrep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Va. Beach, VA.
Posts: 36,870
Received 2,417 Likes on 2,118 Posts

Default

With 200k on that motor.. if it were me.. reman all the way. Start fresh. $2500-3K for fixing a motor with 200K on it. Reman is $2k more.
Old 07-23-2017, 08:40 PM
  #7  
Renaissance Honky
 
Eric Kleven's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Mound, MN
Posts: 1,083
Received 154 Likes on 134 Posts
Default

Eh....

Pull covers off and Plasti-Gauge the cam caps. If they're good, do all the timing gear and get a new valve cover. If more than a couple on the passenger side are pushing the 'loose' side of the spec, maybe replace that head. Maybe get the other head a valve job while you're at that. If...

If the engine's had regular oil changes, the bottom end is fine.

You can do all the timing stuff for about a Thousand + tools. I did, and will share my recipe if you want.
Old 07-24-2017, 11:57 AM
  #8  
Monks
 
650NutKase's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Chuco Town, TX
Posts: 1,850
Received 248 Likes on 221 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by techrep
With 200k on that motor.. if it were me.. reman all the way. Start fresh. $2500-3K for fixing a motor with 200K on it. Reman is $2k more.
I would also do this. Sounds like the rest of the truck is in great shape, why not put another 200k on it? Rebuilding the current one will be a lot of work and there will always be that "what if I didn't do x" feeling. I'd rather spend a little more, get a warranty, and enjoy my truck.




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:02 AM.