Alright, I've got 150k on my 06 lariat. Plugs have been changed without incident 50k miles ago. The truck has always had a slight bog down while on the hwy around 80 mph. Give it a bit of throttle or back off a touch and it goes away. There's a k&n air kit on there from the previous owner. I have a tick sounds like exhaust manifold but I'm pretty sure it's a roller follower because it's coming from bank 1 valve cover area. Been letting it ride for 30k miles because it is not a grinding sound but just a tick that hasn't gotten any worse and goes away sometimes in the winter. Had the check engine light come on and autozone reader said vct bank 1 so I replaced both with mid priced parts from rockauto. Light went off then came back on. Same thing but there was no problem and I had to keep going so I let it ride for 2 weeks. Headed home on the hwy at 1am after working at the farm and the engine timing is way off. Engine light blinking. Rough idle but intermittent. Limped home and parked it.
Over the last 30k miles or so the mpg has been steadily decreasing. Hwy mpg was solid 16 and it has very gradually fallen to 14.
I'm thinking that I need a timing chain job, new high flow oil pump (which psi?), and while I'm at it change it the rollers. This is not a cheap job. Just the parts are going to push $2k easy. I'm mechanical and have done timing repair before but that was when I had time, no kids, and a shop. Now I have a second car, can put up a temporary car port and store parts in the garage. But I might just have someone do the work if I can find the right shop. I'm located in Winston-Salem, NC and have asked around a little, and the guys name that came up more than once I've called, left messages, and no response.

any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Change the tensioners to old style ratcheting type with no seals to blow out . Pull your valve covers to see how bad it is . The condition of cams and valve train very important . Drop oil pan and clean out plastic and oil pickup. Check your crankshaft for excessive end play if it has it then you need a reman . Run an engine flush first to help clean it . I dropped oil pan first and put it back cleaned before I jumped into timing job , but then it threw a roller and made my decision for me .
Your decision is do you pay some one to to do a $3500 job with no warranty or buy a $3200 reman and get someone to do the change out for $1k to 1.5 k with a three year warranty . Sure there will be fluids, gaskets etc so it will be another 400 0r so . That is if you can get exhaust manifolds off and in good shape - no easy way out here.
For me I would get a beater vehicle ,tear out old engine put a reman in my self over a month or so . Then sell the beater later . Even if it took 3 months . A lot depends on your frame /body condition . But right now trucks are very expensive used or new .
Maybe buy and old running f100 and restore it later for a beater .

 

Reman it is....

Is there a place on the forum here for recommended shops in my area and supplier of reman?

Whose the best reman with all the fixed issues and things like water pump, ho oil pump, etc. For me to swap and drop in? Or do I just go through a local mechanic that will spec and warranty it?

 

I’d recommend taking time to research and compile a list of all of the items that you want/need to included in your reman purchase. Then as you talk to reman builders as for specific clarification if they are included, and what brand the actual parts are being used

don’t be satisfied with “or equivalent”

you should ve be able to know what parts are being used.

You might ge surprised how few are using the parts you hope/want and/or how few will actually answer these question in detail and in writing.