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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

4x4 problem...still

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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 02:55 PM
  #11  
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and the IWE solonoid...you stated that it started after the lift install...pinched line, but you say the check good...don't know dude...sry let us know when you tackle it...

Last edited by techrep; Jun 14, 2012 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 03:11 PM
  #12  
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Yea I had the new hooded selenoid put in. Hopefully I'll figure it out soon. At least I'm saving gas driving my girls car for now.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 07:51 PM
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you said your wheel bearings where replaced, did you replace them before or after this issue started?
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bonser216
you said your wheel bearings where replaced, did you replace them before or after this issue started?
After. Originally when I brought it in after the lift wheel bearing, actuators and selenoid were replaced. Still had the problem so I brought it back in and said it seems fine. I've driven it once since then then yesterday I tested all the vacuum lines. Replaced one line and both check valves.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 08:11 PM
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ok i did a front wheel bearing today. and silly me trying to rush through it before i had to leave work didn't take my time.. well on my way home my truck now makes that ratchet/grinding noise too. if you put it in 4wd it goes away. the side i put the bearing in is staying locked in 4wd.. there is a seal on the back side of the wheel bearings. I am thinking that seal may not have sealed properly and is causing it to not work properly.
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Old Jun 14, 2012 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bonser216
ok i did a front wheel bearing today. and silly me trying to rush through it before i had to leave work didn't take my time.. well on my way home my truck now makes that ratchet/grinding noise too. if you put it in 4wd it goes away. the side i put the bearing in is staying locked in 4wd.. there is a seal on the back side of the wheel bearings. I am thinking that seal may not have sealed properly and is causing it to not work properly.
tomorrow i will take it back appart and see if that is the cause of my issue. if it is then its something for you to check out. in the mean time you can figure out which side if not both sides is the problem. jack one front tire off the ground and let the other on the ground. with your truck idleing turn the wheel off the ground and hold the 4wd drive. with the truck in 2wd and the engine running they should spin seperate. if they don't and they are locked together then try the other side and see if that one does or not.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:45 AM
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With all those parts replaced, there has to be a vacuum leak somewhere. It may be that the height of the lift is too much for the lines and they are intermittantly at their length limits and unsealing at connection points.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by MAL-A-BOO
After. Originally when I brought it in after the lift wheel bearing, actuators and selenoid were replaced. Still had the problem so I brought it back in and said it seems fine. I've driven it once since then then yesterday I tested all the vacuum lines. Replaced one line and both check valves.
At this point I would replace the other line and keep looking for leaks.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by bonser216
tomorrow i will take it back appart and see if that is the cause of my issue. if it is then its something for you to check out. in the mean time you can figure out which side if not both sides is the problem. jack one front tire off the ground and let the other on the ground. with your truck idleing turn the wheel off the ground and hold the 4wd drive. with the truck in 2wd and the engine running they should spin seperate. if they don't and they are locked together then try the other side and see if that one does or not.
Let me know if that fixes it.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 06:45 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by MAL-A-BOO
Let me know if that fixes it.
ok so, i diagnosed my issue. i found that my 4wd locking unit was leaking. i know you said all your stuff was replaced. which means it "should all be working" buttt. if you want to diagnose the issue and try to figure it out, take the vacuum lines off the actuators at the wheels with the truck running, you should get some vacuum there. if you do that that means everything to there should be working. then take a vaccum pump that you can buy at auto zone for cheap and put some manual vacuum to the actuator. that should hold vacuum. if it doesn't then there is an internal leak. if it does then try to free spin the wheel with vacuum. if it spins seperatly from the axle then your actuator is working properly. if those are working with manual vacuum then you definatly have a vaccum leaking issue in a line somewhere.
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