First time poster, I have a 95 Aerostar and a 01 ranger. I’m posting this for my grandfathers truck, an 05’ F150 XLT with the 5.4L, 4x4.

188k, No CEL, he’s the original owner. Hasn’t towed anything with the truck in atleast 15 years. Always kept up with the maintenance, (73yo now and isn’t a speed demon, drives like an old man) It’s a really clean truck with no rust. I took it on a road trip from PA-Maine last year zero issues.

Truck developed a hard shifting issue. No CEL. It first started with just first gear from a start, engine would rev up, 1st gear wouldn’t grab, and when it did it would slam. After less than a day of this, the problem spread to all other gears. Any upshift it searches for the gear, doesn’t grab, and then slams when it “finds it”. No slippage when in gear. If you slow down any speed more than -15 or -20mph you can sorta feel it searching for the lower gear as well when you get back on the gas. undrivable at the moment.

My question is if this is a common issue on these transmissions/ if there’s anything related to the valve body that’s easy to try first? before just sourcing a transmission. I’ll be doing it myself, thisll be my first 4x4 trans drop. I’ve done Subarus, old Hondas, and other smaller vehicles.
Is it difficult to split the tcase and trans in vehicle or better to drop as one assembly?
are all 4r75e the same for the 04-08 range? Trans code is “B” on the door. I read that this signifies 4r75E for 05’. Is there a way to tell what trans it is by the sticker on the trans? I have a picture of this handy. If it would help when searching for another trans if I decide to go the used route (new torque converter if I decide to go this route)

thanks in advance,
-Gavin

 

You can have codes without a check engine light. Get a scan (read codes) for Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTCs).

I am not a transmission expert. I would guess that your issue can be found by dropping the pan and visual of solenoids and if necessary drop the valve body and look for issues like stuck check ***** or leaking internal gaskets.

Trans removal is a PITA so pull the pan and do an inspection before going any further.

BTW 4x4 will not interchange with non 4x4 without complete disassembly and extension housing & output shaft swap, the 4x4's is longer.

Door jam sticker

Model Year 2004
Information extracted from WSM (Ford Workshop Manual) page 100-00-11
Transmission Code

• A — 4-speed automatic, 4R70E
• B— 4-speed automatic, 4R75E

Model Year 2005

• A — 4-speed automatic, 4R70E
• B— 4-speed automatic, 4R75E
• M— 5-speed manual, M5R2-C

Model Year 2006
Information extracted from WSM page 100-01-8

• A — 4-speed automatic, 4R70E F-150
• F— 4-speed automatic, 4R75E Mark LT
• M— 5-speed manual, M5R2-C - F150
• Q — 4-speed automatic, 4R75E (Livonia) F-150/Mark LT

Model Year 2007
Information extracted from WSM page 100-01-8
Transmission Code

• Q — 4-speed automatic, 4R75E (Livonia) F-150/Mark LT
• M— 5-speed manual, M5R2-C - F150

Model Year 2008
Information extracted from WSM page 100-01-9
Transmission Code

• Q — 4-speed automatic, 4R75E (Livonia) F-150/Mark LT
• M— 5-speed manual, M5R2-C - F150

 

Well I gave him a grand for the truck so it’s my problem now. I’ve admittedly never touched an auto trans so I dropped the pan. The plug they use from factory was in the pan so I was the first one in there. Fluid dirty, no metal shavings, a fair amount of clutch material for 190k on the clock.

I took apart the valve body and cleaned it, check ***** and gaskets new. New filter and fluid. Removed all the servos and inspected. All piston walls clean, no damage or scoring at all.
only thing I found was the overdrive snap ring was cracked. Not broke. I replaced this and left everything else as it was. The seals on the OD servo, and the accumulators appeared fine to me but I didn’t replace.

currently symptoms are only with overdrive ON.
overdrive off and there are no symptoms.
overdrive on, it downshifts out of overdrive fine but if you go to downshift again (more gas) it neutrals. Goes back into the next up gear fine.
also does not like going back into first. Takes a second once you input throttle and gives the tiniest little bump into gear. Up from there and it’s perfectly fine.
I took it on a two hour drive today highway and backroads just now and it’s drivable besides that. I drove it around town a while OD off and didn’t notice anything at all.

does anyone think replacing the overdrive servo would be worth it? How about the pistons and seals for the accumulators? Currently only has trouble DOWN shifting. Up shifting no issues at all.

any input is greatly appreciated.

 

I don't mean to be a negative Nancy here but I see a rebuild in your future. This may go on for some years, but what you've described is the same as how my 4r70e slowly died. I was resorting to keeping the OD off around town to curtail some of the shift flare and slam engagements. I even tried lighter and heavier springs for some of the accumulators.

Mine was a direct clutch failure.

 

For a better understanding of what's going on in this transmission, and in case weve both missed something crucial- I'd recommend performing a line pressure test across the ports on the passenger side of the transmission if you are capable of doing so. I believe these are to be checked with the engine running. I will try to find the service procedure for that if you'd like, and I can link it to you if I find it.

Also, I'm no transmission expert but I believe the EPC solenoid on these transmissions are a weak or wear point as well. If this is the case you're in for a relatively easy repair, especially since you're well capable of pulling and inspecting the valve body. So we shouldn't rule out that yet, and I will try to find you some hope before we go the path of condemnation. I apologize for earlier!

 

https://charm.li/Ford/2005/F%20150%2...29%20Solenoid/

Have a good read through that, and perform whatever parts of that test if you can. If not your local transmission shop should be able to.

Since you've said this happens in all gears, it's quite possible to be a general pressure control issue. Check also for cracks in the transmission case, above and outside of the cylinders for the accumulators and servos. I have seen weeping cracks on those before.

As an additional edit my theory on why those crack is simple hydraulics, a fluid cannot be compressed only pressurized and if there is fluid flow restriction and a hydraulic charge, something must give and it won't be the fluid.