Crock

My 5.4 3v is toast and I don't want to put another one in its place. I know a 09 4.6 3v will bolt in, but will my computer run it?

dukedkt442

I couldn't imagine that your computer and engine would be at all happy together.

Why do you NOT want a 5.4 3v, but DO want a 4.6 3v?

Crock

I really don't want the 4.6 3v, but thought it might be easier to swap than a 4.6 2v. 5.4 3v engines are junk. I know lots of people will defend them and say they are strong engines if properly maintained. That makes them a fragile engine, not strong. A strong engine will take a abuse and keep going... like the old windsor 5.0 & 5.8 engines. I have two friends that are mechanics at Ford dealers and both have told me 5.4 3v engines used to come in all the time with issues compared to 4.6 2v. Both suggested swapping to 07-08 4.6 2v. I was just curious about the 3v

dukedkt442

4.6 3v would still be subject to the same issues as a 5.4 3v, but anecdotally on here there seem to be less issues (probably due to the lower sample size). Sadly, the days of bulletproof Dodge L-6s and AMC I-6s are behind us. The 5.4 3v isn't as fragile as some make them out to be... a decent OCI and ignition tune-up every 60k and they'll take over 300k miles on a stock bottom end; there's a few guys here with well over 300k, and many in the mid 200k's on original timing parts without a problem. Replace timing components with upgraded new parts and you won't have an issue. 2v's are more robust simply due to less valvetrain complexity, but would require a whole mess of work to make work right if it even could, you'd be far ahead just buying a 10th gen.

Crock

Ya, you are right. I love my truck, but I think I am just frustrated with it. I have had to go in and do the timing components a few times along with locked out phasers. Maybe my engine isn't shot, but I just don't know where to go with it and nobody I have talk to so far knows what the problem is. Here is what going on...maybe someone here can figure it out?


I have had to do the chain guides etc in the past, at that time I put in a ford racing HV oil pump along with a new cloyes timing kit. I also locked out the phasers. That was about two years ago and recently it started getting a rattle at warm idle. I am pretty sure I hear chain rattle on hard acceleration. I have taken it apart three times this past weekend. First installing everything new on the drivers side, then everything timing related under the front cover including another tensioner. Each time I take it apart the chain is loose on the driver's side guide. When I first fire it up cold has about 90psi oil pressure and as it gets warm and drops the rattle start at about 60psi. I did remove a couple cam caps and you can see some wear,but nothing that really catches your fingernail when dragged across it. I removed the cam and checked the lifters and rockers. All rockers moved freely and the lifters were all pumped up and I was able to squeeze them a little. (1/32- 1/16") I think that is good?

I did a compression test to see if a valve was damaged and compression was pretty equal. I even put a dial test indicator on the cam to see if it was bent, its good.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

fordmaster302

What tensioners did you put on it the plastic ones or the metal ones . I swapped out the plastic tensioners that rely on oil pressure to help keep the chain tight for the metal ratcheting ones from the older gen 5.4 which doesnt rely on oil pressure to keep the chain tight. I swapped mine out for the same reason the warm up chain rattle one of the tensioners was about to fail completely it had no resistance on the plunger that supposed to keep pressure on the chain guides thus causing the warm up chain rattle.Some of major engine rebuilders are now recommending swapping to the metal tensioners and the high volume pump to help prevent the issues with the timing setup on the 5.4 3v.

Crock

The one I put on two years ago was the cast iron one from a 2V with the ratchet, I put another new one (metal) last weekend and now a plastic. I tried the plastic last as a last ditch effort.

dukedkt442

Take the lock-outs and toss them in the trash.

The only way to definitely not have problems is a full rebuild kit with Ford parts, running about $1400. Guides, lash adjusters, followers, tensioners, chains, phasers, oil pump. Maybe cams/caps if needed; at 150k, mine were fine. If anything but Ford parts are used, you can't discount their potential premature failures... Ford Tech Makuloco has a few videos on aftermarket parts failing almost immediately. In fact he specifically calls out Freedom Racing and Dorman for peddling garbage. Scorge has 250k on his original components...

Installation/cleaning of course also needs to be perfect. Should go without saying, but engine and oil passages should be completely sludge-free, or you'll be chasing issues forever.

dukedkt442

Did you ever drop the pan to clear debris from the oil pump pick up? That is a must.

60 psi warm idle is stupid high. I’m used to engines running a hot 45-60 psi cruising. Sounds like either the gauge is faulty, or there is obstruction downstream of where the reading is being taken. which is continuing to oil-starve your timing components and cause the repeated failures. The starboard side head is the end of the line.

ShirBlackspots

After how many minutes is this where its at 60psi?

On my stock oil pump (and usually one in good condition), its 75-ish cold at idle, and 25-30psi at hot idle. It'll run around 65-70psi when driving around with the engine above 1200RPM.
It takes maybe 30 minutes of driving for my oil pressure to settle to 25-30psi at idle. (I can't wait to see what the M340HV runs at hot idle once I get around to doing my timing set -- and replacing other components)