3" blocks
#11
Senior Member
I'll be home in about 3 hours and will measure mine for you if nobody has responded yet. I've put the Readylift 3" blocks in (replaced factory) which came with U-Bolts. Willy07 has a point though, you can add the difference to the ones you already have.
Readylift says you should get an alignment in their rear block installation kit... I had replaced shocks (which changing in the front end they recommend an alignment anyways of course) and mine was actually fully in spec surprisingly. The shop charged me time to look at it but gave me a much lower rate due to no adjustment required. I'm no alignment expert though!
As for the blocks themselves, mine had pins to keep the axel in-line and prevent dogtracking. I think maybe that's why mine wasn't out. I know there's some blocks out there without that though.
Readylift says you should get an alignment in their rear block installation kit... I had replaced shocks (which changing in the front end they recommend an alignment anyways of course) and mine was actually fully in spec surprisingly. The shop charged me time to look at it but gave me a much lower rate due to no adjustment required. I'm no alignment expert though!
As for the blocks themselves, mine had pins to keep the axel in-line and prevent dogtracking. I think maybe that's why mine wasn't out. I know there's some blocks out there without that though.
#13
I'll be home in about 3 hours and will measure mine for you if nobody has responded yet. I've put the Readylift 3" blocks in (replaced factory) which came with U-Bolts. Willy07 has a point though, you can add the difference to the ones you already have.
Readylift says you should get an alignment in their rear block installation kit... I had replaced shocks (which changing in the front end they recommend an alignment anyways of course) and mine was actually fully in spec surprisingly. The shop charged me time to look at it but gave me a much lower rate due to no adjustment required. I'm no alignment expert though!
As for the blocks themselves, mine had pins to keep the axel in-line and prevent dogtracking. I think maybe that's why mine wasn't out. I know there's some blocks out there without that though.
Readylift says you should get an alignment in their rear block installation kit... I had replaced shocks (which changing in the front end they recommend an alignment anyways of course) and mine was actually fully in spec surprisingly. The shop charged me time to look at it but gave me a much lower rate due to no adjustment required. I'm no alignment expert though!
As for the blocks themselves, mine had pins to keep the axel in-line and prevent dogtracking. I think maybe that's why mine wasn't out. I know there's some blocks out there without that though.
#17
Senior Member
haha it took me a bit because it's frickan cold outside!
The picture is a bit deceiving due to the angle but I measured 10 3/4" on mine. As you can see in the photo there's still lots of threads left so honestly I think 10 1/2 would even be just fine like Willy07 wrote. I'd almost rather it a bit shorter to prevent catching things.
The picture is a bit deceiving due to the angle but I measured 10 3/4" on mine. As you can see in the photo there's still lots of threads left so honestly I think 10 1/2 would even be just fine like Willy07 wrote. I'd almost rather it a bit shorter to prevent catching things.
#19
haha it took me a bit because it's frickan cold outside!
The picture is a bit deceiving due to the angle but I measured 10 3/4" on mine. As you can see in the photo there's still lots of threads left so honestly I think 10 1/2 would even be just fine like Willy07 wrote. I'd almost rather it a bit shorter to prevent catching things.
The picture is a bit deceiving due to the angle but I measured 10 3/4" on mine. As you can see in the photo there's still lots of threads left so honestly I think 10 1/2 would even be just fine like Willy07 wrote. I'd almost rather it a bit shorter to prevent catching things.