Hi,
P-0018 code, this is for the #2 bank which is the Left side or typical driver side for North America, right?

So I have the shop scope it and they say it's definitely off, like a tooth. Not good, lumpy idle, won't pass smog. Doesn't drive bad but I don't know how good it should drive. Just bought it.
I've decided to pull the Left valve cover to start. I'm curious if the cam phaser should be stamped with an L or an R. Mine is stamped with an R.
I'm guessing I am on to something here?
Second issue, what is the correct tool to hold the water pump hub to break the fan clutch nut loose? I'm guessing the hub is 47MM?
Third, how does the Right bank valve cover come off with the AC unit in the way?

Supposedly all the chains, guides and phasers were done before I bought it, missing bolts all over the place, a real cluster. Probably loaded up with genuine counterfeit parts too. I'm tearing it all down and starting over from scratch to make sure it's correct. Nothing worse than paying a mechanic for incompetent work. PS reservoir bracket was held on with one nut.

 

Each phaser, at least newer ones has both an L and R mark.
there is plenty of info to be had on this forum and elsewhere.
The passenger side valve cover was the hardest part of the job in my opinion it's easiest to discharge the AC and remove the accumulator, but it can be done leaving the AC in tact.
I Suggest removing the fender liner for better access to bolts and loosening the trans dipstick. Then I used a ratchet strap to apply a little pressure between the AC and the hood hinge bracket for every last bit of clearance.

 

You might find some of your missing bolts and nuts in the valley
Hit the junkyard for more that you are missing
Sounds like you have a broken tensioner or guide
Good luck

 

I'm not sure why they would stamp them with anything if they are the same. getting past the fan hub is turning out to be a real challenge. I'm tempted to go buy a 1-7/8 end wrench to fit that 47MM nut, figuring I'll be able to give it a good whack with a hammer. At least I have time to get it done since it is not a daily driver.

 

They are stamped so that when you are doing the timing the marks on the timing chains line up with R on the passenger side and L on the driver's side when the other mark on both chains is on the crank sprocket mark at TSC.
there are several write ups stickied at the top of the subforum or "fordtechmakuloco" on YouTube has several videos about doing the timing.

As for removing the fan, I just used a crescent wrench but the trick is holding the pulley so it doesn't spin.
I've used a strap wrench on the water pump pulley to hold it, or find a way to use a 13mm wrench on one of the bolts that holds the clutch to the pulley to wedge and keep it from spinning. Using an air hammer on a stubby fan wrench while the belt is still on is a great way to go, but most folks don't have one of those.

 

Usually just use a hammer and a big long chisel or tire iron cut off to smack the fan clutch off if you do not have the tools
Pretty easy with the special tools
Rent them at AutoZone of use the BFH method

 

I've managed over a few weekends to get the covers all removed. Attached are a few photos showing how I held the fan hub with a carved up fan clutch removal tool and a chain to the front suspension. With it completely locked up, a good wack on the clutch nut loosened it up. Second was the crankshaft nut. Same technique with a carved up chain hook to grab the front hub. 1/2" drive with half the handle from the floor jack and it was easily persuaded. I've never used a impact on that nut for one reason, it's the best way to snap the front end off the crankshaft. Slow and steady force is the best.

So here's my questions:
With the front hub set at the 0 TDC mark before pulling, see hub and cover pics, are the phasers in the correct positions L & R?
Since it is all removed, I will replace the solenoids, crank sensor and the 2 front sensors, all 8 coil packs, water pump, radiator, hoses and a few PS lines that someone crushed.

I hope its at TDC, just throwing that out there.

 

Your driver's side phaser looks like a ford one, and possibly newer, but the passenger one is a cheapo no-name one. I'd throw the no name one away and get a ford unit in there and check all the marks while you're at it. It looks like the two camshafts are in alignment to each other but I can't tell if they are good in relation to the crankshaft.

 

I guess I have to rotate the crank clockwise a few degrees to get the timing mark to 6:00.
Do the timing chain tensioners ever go bad? Are they spring loaded or oil pressurized? I guess I'll find out when I pull the rails.
I'm inclined to keep the crankshaft sprocket and chains.

So far I haven't seen any smoking guns, but getting it all opened up for inspection is worth it.

Is the Cloyes kit considered to have all of the suitable quality and appropriate parts? No chinnese junk fakes? I know the supply chains much better for German car parts.
https://www.cloyes.com/part-finder-s...gine=V8%205.4L



Parts list so far:

• 1 New phaser
• 2 New Solenoids
• Rail kit, all
• 3 Serpentine idler rollers
• Belt tensioner unless that idler is replaceable
• Radiator, original with 200K miles
• Upper and lower hoses
• Coolant tank
• Power steering hoses, pressure and return
• Water pump, casting date was March 2007! Not bad?
• Crankshaft position sensor
• 2 Camshaft sensors
• 4 new coil packs
• 8 new spark plugs
• Seals, crank, timing cover valve covers, solenoids

 

First thing I want to point out is every diagram on the net about where the camshafts will likely line up when setting them up the first time are misleading. The drawings indicate the cam on the head is likely to be rotated further toward the 2:30 position when in fact they are closer to 12:00. I spun the crankshaft a dozen revolutions and figured it's fine. The timing marks migrate after the first rotation due to the dissimilar lengths of chain on the draw side vs the tensioner side.

I opted out of the Cloyes kit, it probably all comes from chinna. Good old usa company falling for the red menace. With all the crap they are sending our way, hacking everything they can, stealing technology and aiming nuclear weapons at us I refuse to buy anything made there anymore. The Suspect phaser was replaced with a genuine dealer part. Upon removal, the timing flags broke off, I wonder how much they saved by turning the heat down on the spot welding at assembly. Aside from a cam sensor connector and a coil connector that won't click the engine started right up and the service light went out immediately. It runs so smooth and much quieter now. I need to locate a good wiring harness repair resource, any ideas?

There's a special bolt on the front outer edge of the head that seems to be impossible to find, does anyone have one? It holds the PS Reservoir bracket. Might be the same as the one that holds the ATF fill dipstick.