Hey, everyone! Another window issue (surprise, surprise...)

Summary: it's a voltage issue (somewhere)

• 2007 XLT Super Cab 4.6 V8, typical 5-button driver-side master switch
• I put the driver side window down
• It wouldn't come back up without some serious finagling with the switch
• To ensure the window would stay up until I fixed it, I disconnected the switch
• I then bought a new switch
• As soon as I installed the new switch and turned the key, the window went down in a controlled/electronic fashion (i.e. it did NOT just drop)
• I did some research and determined (incorrectly) that the problem was the power regulator
• I then bought a new power regulator (mistake)
• Prior to installing the new power regulator, I hooked it up to the new switch
• As soon as I turned the key, the power regulator activated and assumed the "down" position
• I then started testing voltages at key points
• At the driver side regulator motor power feed/pigtail, I get 12V when the window switch is NOT activated: I've learned that this is WRONG (it should be zero - 0)
• When I toggle the switch, voltage goes from 12V (or -12V depending on how I have the leads connected) to 0, NOT from 0 to 12 or 0 to -12 (i.e. voltage is changing, but it's not properly changing polarity to alter the direction of the regulator motor)
• To confirm my findings, I performed the same test on the driver-side rear window motor power point - this performed as expected: 0 when doing nothing, 12V when the master switch is toggled in one direction, -12V when toggled in the other.
• Please note: all tests were performed using the new master switch, and the other 3 windows work just fine using the new switch. The only window that does NOT work is the driver-side window.
• Also note: what I've described here is exactly what happened with the old switch, which is why I started this process with replacing the switch. Alas, I don't have the old switch, as I was SO confident that I threw it out. Dumb.

I therefore deduced that, due to a faulty switch or crossed wire (or something similar), a constant voltage is being passed by the driver side door switch to the regulator motor, causing it to activate and "permanently" lower the window. Toggling the switch causes the voltage to change from 12V to 0, which does not reverse polarity "enough" to cause the motor to turn in the opposite (up) direction.

My questions are:

• is this a switch issue (the current switch is new), or do I have to move further up the circuit and get into the door jamb/kick area to look for a crossed wire or something?
• Is there a way to test continuity on the switch (a Dorman 901-323) to see if it's the switch?
• What else do I need to look at/diagnose?

Thanks!

 

I had the same issue with my drivers window. I popped the switch apart and found a plastic plunger and spring under the driver toggle. The plastic was worn away flat. This caused the contacts not to make. Hence no worky. I took a plunger from one of the back window toggles. Everything has worked fine since


Check this in your old switch and return the other one

 

I'm having a similar problem with my passenger window. It will go down every time no problem - but you can only control it from drivers control and not from the passengers control and to get it back up driver has to click the button a few times to get it to go back up. Is it the regulator that's going bad? I've also heard the switches get dirty and sometimes screw up the windows operation and that if the drivers button for a window goes bad it effects the affected window.

New regulator? New master button assemble? Something else? Any thoughts?

 

TTZ, Have you checked the one touch down relay to see if its stuck?

 

like I said in my reply take the switch apart. There is a plastic plunger with a spring under the rocker part of the switch. This plunger part pushes down the contact to open or close the window. On my the plastic was worn away. So instead of a straight piece that is rounded over it was worn at a slant and shorter than the others

 

07_F150_XLT_SCab: one-touch down relay? That's the first I've heard of such a device, but after some quick research (http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...d.php?t=136905) I like the troubleshooting approach. Where would it be located on my vehicle (2007 XLT), and is there a way to test it using a multimeter?

jamie930: I took apart the old switch and found some bits that I could remove (which temporarily fixed the problem), but then the problem I've stated here happened with both the old switch and the new. I've taken the new switch apart multiple times and all looks fine (other than shabby workmanship/molding/etc). I also ran continuity tests from the hot pin to each of the 8 +/- polarity pins to the 4 windows; everything checked out, so it's not an open/crossed circuit in the switch itself or something wrong mechanically.