2007 5.4 Triton code p0356
Getting code p0356 cant get it to go away have already changed the following
Coil packs
Plugs
Camshaft sensor driver side
And as far a trouble shooting this us what I have done so far
I have disconnected coil#6 and Checked that I have 12v coming to coil which I do so then I checked with test lamp that the pcm was sending the ground pulse signal to toe coil which it is not sending it to the coil or the injector I then did a ohms reading to confirm that the orange with yellow strip wire(ground pulse wire) from coil to pcm was not open and it is not is there something I'm missing is there a sensor that tells coil 6 to fire or what I have also reset the pcm after each time on changing a part to make sure that the code would stay away and not be in memory but it keeps showing up any help would be appreciated I'm starting to think it is PCM but everything I read says that is rare for one pin to go bad all connections are good and clean as well
Thanks
Coil packs
Plugs
Camshaft sensor driver side
And as far a trouble shooting this us what I have done so far
I have disconnected coil#6 and Checked that I have 12v coming to coil which I do so then I checked with test lamp that the pcm was sending the ground pulse signal to toe coil which it is not sending it to the coil or the injector I then did a ohms reading to confirm that the orange with yellow strip wire(ground pulse wire) from coil to pcm was not open and it is not is there something I'm missing is there a sensor that tells coil 6 to fire or what I have also reset the pcm after each time on changing a part to make sure that the code would stay away and not be in memory but it keeps showing up any help would be appreciated I'm starting to think it is PCM but everything I read says that is rare for one pin to go bad all connections are good and clean as well
Thanks
Its not the PCM, since the PCM almost never fails in these trucks. I'd suggest checking the injector and coil plugs to make sure they're pushed in all the way and that all the wiring is good.
There is no sensor to tell the coil when to fire. (other than the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors). PCM detects when a coil has fired when there is flyback voltage on that circuit.
There is no sensor to tell the coil when to fire. (other than the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors). PCM detects when a coil has fired when there is flyback voltage on that circuit.
Last edited by ShirBlackspots; Sep 7, 2019 at 02:22 PM.
Its not the PCM, since the PCM almost never fails in these trucks. I'd suggest checking the injector and coil plugs to make sure they're pushed in all the way and that all the wiring is good.
There is no sensor to tell the coil when to fire. (other than the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors). PCM detects when a coil has fired when there is flyback voltage on that circuit.
There is no sensor to tell the coil when to fire. (other than the crankshaft and camshaft position sensors). PCM detects when a coil has fired when there is flyback voltage on that circuit.
I have 12v at both the coil pack and injector but from what I have read the other wire is a signal wire from pcm to coil and it's pretty much ungrounded and grounds the circuit to activate and deactivate the coil pack and I know that wire is good because I check continuity on the wire from the plug end on PCM to plug end for coil pack so I know for 100% that wire is good
You are on the right track and @Shirblackspots is pointing you in the right direction. DRILL DOWN on the COP circuit end-to-end and don't loos focus on other things. Like injector #6.
The PCM is 'smart' enougt to know that 'IF it doesn't see the 12 volt source voltage coming 'through' the COP coil, down the wire - through the PCM plug - and to the PCM's COP trigger circuit, it CANNOT fire the plug. SO it shuts down the corresponding injector to save CAT and gives you a P035x code. THAT is actually an additional 'clue'. If the PCM could see the 12 volts on the control wire- BUT did not see the reverse voltage Kick produced by the plug arching as Blackspots explained, the PCM would be firing the injector. So that tells me the PCM cannot see the 12 volts on the COP control wire for #6 and there is NO NEED to fire the injector - cant achieve ignition anyway.
I would disconnect the battery - unplug the "CENTER" PCM CONNECTOR, spray the contacts with good electrical spray contact cleaner, and PLUG/REPLUG it multiple times hoping to burnish the contacts. COP #6 should be Pin #15 (Org/Yel). You could test continuity from there to the COP plug, but I doubt that is the problem. More likely connection between PCM male/female connector --- OR the dreaded (and uncommon) failed PCM circuit. If that doesn't work - a stupid redneck trick might be to force a straight pin in the plug beside the pin in hopes of making it make contact.
I have NO faith in test lights. The firing signal to the COP is only 500 microseconds long. The PCM uses a 'triple strike' strategy below 1500 RPM, so you only get three 1.5 millisecond pulses to the COP. I don't trust NOID lights (an CERTAINLY an incondecent test light will _NOT_ do anything with such a short pulse). It takes an oscilloscope.
You can actually SEE the sparkplug spark by plugging it into a cOP BOOT, connecting the COP to the harness, grounding the cathode and crank the engine. (should screw an old plug into head to do this test). You'll see it blaze like crazy if the circuit is working.
The PCM is 'smart' enougt to know that 'IF it doesn't see the 12 volt source voltage coming 'through' the COP coil, down the wire - through the PCM plug - and to the PCM's COP trigger circuit, it CANNOT fire the plug. SO it shuts down the corresponding injector to save CAT and gives you a P035x code. THAT is actually an additional 'clue'. If the PCM could see the 12 volts on the control wire- BUT did not see the reverse voltage Kick produced by the plug arching as Blackspots explained, the PCM would be firing the injector. So that tells me the PCM cannot see the 12 volts on the COP control wire for #6 and there is NO NEED to fire the injector - cant achieve ignition anyway.
I would disconnect the battery - unplug the "CENTER" PCM CONNECTOR, spray the contacts with good electrical spray contact cleaner, and PLUG/REPLUG it multiple times hoping to burnish the contacts. COP #6 should be Pin #15 (Org/Yel). You could test continuity from there to the COP plug, but I doubt that is the problem. More likely connection between PCM male/female connector --- OR the dreaded (and uncommon) failed PCM circuit. If that doesn't work - a stupid redneck trick might be to force a straight pin in the plug beside the pin in hopes of making it make contact.
I have NO faith in test lights. The firing signal to the COP is only 500 microseconds long. The PCM uses a 'triple strike' strategy below 1500 RPM, so you only get three 1.5 millisecond pulses to the COP. I don't trust NOID lights (an CERTAINLY an incondecent test light will _NOT_ do anything with such a short pulse). It takes an oscilloscope.
You can actually SEE the sparkplug spark by plugging it into a cOP BOOT, connecting the COP to the harness, grounding the cathode and crank the engine. (should screw an old plug into head to do this test). You'll see it blaze like crazy if the circuit is working.






