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2006 Ford F150 5.4 wants to stall at red lights and stop signs.

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Old 03-22-2017, 09:17 AM
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The spark plugs were torqued to 25-30lb-ft the shop I took it too followed the TSB to the letter. After I replaced the right head I installed the plugs and torqued to 25lb-ft put new anti-seize and put new dielectric grease on all the coil boots. there was no sludge in the valve cover, any sludge that built up on the timing cover was removed with degreaser and break cleaner. I'm currently looking at an air issue vacuum included. I checked Chilton and I will work my way to the torque converter in the trans. I noticed that when it is put int neutral the truck returned to a steady idle there was still a skip/misfire. But it didn't seem like it wanted to stall. There were no codes for a misfire.
Old 03-22-2017, 09:25 AM
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Well it sounds like your timing should be ok other than the aftermarket parts which would worry me. They are known to fail and fail often. Does it have the phaser noise or knock? Do you have a way to check live data for misfires?
Old 03-22-2017, 09:26 AM
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So far the $$ amount spent on getting it up and running would have bought me a reman crate long block.
Old 03-22-2017, 09:29 AM
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No knocking the engine is very quiet with exception of the fuel injectors clicking. I believe the scan tool and app I use will get that live data but I just have to figure out how to get it to work.
Old 03-22-2017, 10:39 AM
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Unmetered air leak. Check from MAF to TB, ensure your lines are connected, ensure no hoses hanging.

Last edited by scobar; 03-22-2017 at 10:42 AM.
Old 03-23-2017, 04:34 AM
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Default Long block cost

Base is around $ 3600 with out all the new stuff and gaskets . Water pump, gaskets,vacuum lines,fluids etc . Jasper runs around 7500 plus extras . My guess most guys end up with another 1000 on that .
You can't count all the stuff like FPMN's , manifolds , cats ,sensors ,starters, water pumps , alt , mufflers etc which are all external on the old engine . You had to fix that anyway old or new.
If you think you have a vacuum leak you can build a simple smoke machine off you tube . I did and on my third run I found the leak on my wifes explorer under the battery on the purge solenoid .
Back to the phasors ,it is a hydraulic loop using dirty engine oil . The pcm controls the VCTS off idle with oil pressure . Trouble is-- oil gets carbon in it and clogs screens in VCTS and VCT valve bodies sometimes jamming them open/inoperative . Plastic tensioners have seals that blow out reducing oil pressure resulting in low tension on chains . Oil dumps right down into pan starving system . Small Oil passages on cam journals clog starving lash adjusters and cam rollers . OEM oil pump not that good to begin with . Not enough oil pressure to drive cam phasors .
One good fix is to use old type metal ratcheting tensioners--- they don't have gaskets . plus a new melling oil pump . Don't go over 5k on syn oil changes ,don't let combustion carbon dirt build up .
Old 03-27-2017, 03:26 AM
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Over this past weekend I went ahead and replaced the TPS and ordered a new throttle actuator control. I did this since Friday I was out with my son shoe shopping and received codes for both parts - TPS being the top code. Truck is idling good and not acting like it wants to stall out. I hope that the TAC helps. I do plan on checking for vacuum leaks and will get back to y'all on that. Thanks all for the advise.



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