Chris Owenby

Hi I'm Chris and im new to this forum. I have a 2006 f150 xlt with 5.4 4x4. I bought it from carmax. About 2 weeks in number 5 lost compression. They told me that it needed a new motor. So about 2 - 3 weeks I got a new motor put in. Before the new motor they put in new radiator drivers side catalytic converter new spark plugs new timing chains tensioners. I put in a new fuel filter. It doesn't have any power at all. When I punched it to pass a idiot on the interstate it didn't kick down and I couldn't pass them. It's been this way since the new motor. Gas milage doesn't seem to be great either. But like I said no power. I came from a Silverado with a 4.8 v8 and that truck would kill this truck. Now that's not what I'm trying to do but it should be able to pass minivans. Also there's 92,000 miles on the truck. 2,000 since new motor. My dad has a Innova 3140 scan tool. There's no check engine lights. Since new motor. It's been 6 run times since I replaced the battery. Here's all what the scanner said. Sorry for the really long post.
I'm monitor status Eva is blinking. Emission status is yellow.
No dtcs
Fuel sys 1 - cl
Calc load percent 20.7
Ect degrees 174
Stft b1 percent moves -3.1 to 0.7
Ltft b1 percent 3.1
Stft b2 percent moves -3.1 to 0.7
Ltft b2 percent 1.5 to 2.3
Eng rpm 593 to 607
Spark advance 11 to 13
Iat degrees 59
maf lb/min 0.637 to 0.665
Tps percent 12.9
02s b1 s1 v 0.065 to 0.715
Stft b1 s1 percent -2.3 to -6.2
02s b1 s2 v 0.660
Stft b1 s2 percent n/a
02s b2 s1 v 0.070 to 0.755
Stft b2 s1 percent -0.7 to -5.4
02s b2 s2 v 0.130 to 0.320
Stft b2 s2 percent n/a
​​​​​​Fp/vac psi 38.5 to 40
Command evap percent 34.9
Fuel level percent 63.0
Evap p ( in h20) -0.344
Baro ( in hg) 29.8
Cat te 11 degrees 806
Cat te 21 degrees 806
Mi​​s _ena yes
Fuel _ ena yes
Ccm _ ena yes
Mis _ cmpl yes
Fuel cmpl yes
Ccm cmpl no
Cat ena yes
Hcat ena no
Evap ena yes
Air ena no
Acrf ena no
02s ena yes
Hr ena yes
Egr ena no
Cat cmpl no
Heat cmpl yes
Evap cmpl no
Air cmpl yes
Acrf cmpl yes
02s cmpl no
Hr cmpl no
Egr cmpl yes
Ecu volts 14.6
Load value percent 15.2
Eq ratio 0.999
Rel tps percent 1.1
Ambient degrees 32
Tps b percent 16.8
Acc pedal d percent 18.0
Acc pedal e percent 29.0
Acc pedal f percent 17.6
Command tac percent 1.9

Hopefully someone will see something wrong. Thanks guys

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Well my opinion is that Carmax needs to fix it, whatever the issue is. A motor that has 2-3 weeks use on it and is not running right, well that goes back on Carmax. Welcome to the forum and I hope you get it running right.

redfishtd

If there is no codes that's tough . New motor includes what . New plugs ,old cops ,old boots ,old alt , old intake manifold ,old injectors ,old throttle body?
Just jawing trying to get thread started . Old injectors .
No misfire just bogging down? Does it idle fine . Don't know what all they moved or replaced . Maybe you can pin that down .
Carmax should make it good we hope . Need some more symptoms .
Did you try the relearn thing ? Maybe they need to flash pcm newest edition .
If they didn't put new plugs and boots in it that would be poor . Cleaning throttle body off of the engine would be a cheap thing . This engine bad about vac lines coming off behind intake . There is an vac intake runner control back of manifold very hard to get to .
Compare all the connectors to a good engine vac etc. You have more time than they allow a mechanic to look around .
Come back with some more stuff .

redfishtd

Monitor “not ready”

Clearing the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) will reset the monitor statuses. This typically occurs during vehicle repair. Statuses are reset in case of power failure too. This usually happens when the battery has been disconnected. Therefore it is not advisable to disconnect the battery. If you need to disconnect the battery for example to replace it, read further to learn how to get the monitors back to complete.

Note! Depending on your country and state, OBDII vehicle may not pass the annual inspection unless the required monitors are “ready”. For example, the US Environmental Protection Agency guidelines allow up to two monitors to be in a “not ready” state for model year 1996 through 2000 vehicles and one monitor “not read” for 2001 and newer model year vehicles.

How to get the monitors “ready”?

1. First, make sure that the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) is not commanded on. Having stored or even pending diagnostic trouble codes active may prevent a monitor from running to completion.

2. Second, make sure that you have enough fuel in the car. Some monitors, for instance the EVAP monitor, may require the fuel level to be between 35% and 85% to initiate the diagnostic testing.

3. Third, complete the so called “drive cycle”. About one week of combined city and highway driving is usually enough to allow the monitors to reach complete status. The drive cycle is explained in more details in the next paragraph.

OBD drive cycle

The purpose of the OBD2 drive cycle is to let your car run on-board diagnostics. This, in turn, allows monitors to operate and detect potential malfunctions of your cars’s emission system. The correct drive cycle for your car can vary greatly depending on the car model and manufacturer. Also, the monitor in question affects the required drive cycle.

Today, many vehicle manufacturers include these drive cycles in the vehicle owner’s manual. Typically, a few days of normal driving, both city and highway, will make the monitors ready. The following generic drive cycle can be used as a guideline if a specific drive cycle is not known. It will assist with resetting monitors when a car specific drive cycle is not available. However, it may not work for all cars and monitors.

The drive cycle can be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions. Therefore, it is better to drive it in restricted area!

1. The universal OBD-II drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 50 C /122 F, and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition is easily achieved by letting the car to sit overnight.

2. The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start. Otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

3. Start the engine and idle the engine in drive for two and half minutes, with the A/C and rear defroster on if equipped.

4. Turn the A/C and rear defroster off, and accelerate to 90 km/h (55 mph) under moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a steady speed for three minutes.

5. Decelerate (const down) to 30 km/h (20 mph) without braking or depressing the clutch for manual transmissions.

6. Accelerate back to 90-100 km/h (55-60 mph) at 3/4 throttle. Hold at a steady speed for five minutes.

7. Decelerate (const down) to a stop without braking.

To avoid being rejected in the annual inspection, you can prepare your car for it yourself. Do not wait until the annual inspection with your issues. If the check engine light comes on, read the diagnostic trouble codes and engine status immediately. It could save you a lot of time as well as future repair and fuel costs. You can do all this with OBD Auto Doctor diagnostic software. You can read all the monitors statuses even with the free version. Try the software now!
You will hear from the guys who are better at this code reading.

Chris Owenby

Thats alot of good information i sure appreciate it. I will take it back down there. I was just wondering if anyone saw anything weird with all that scanner info. It looks like a different language to me lol. I didnt think about all that when i replaced the battery. Thanks guys. I will repost when i find out more information. Happy new year

Chris Owenby

All i know is the manager told me it was a brand new motor from ford. I believe everything is the old parts except the plugs cam phasers timing chain parts. When i tried to pass that minivan it seemed a little low on power but it really felt around 3500 to 4k its bogged down like crazy almost like it sat there. I keep hearing about that fuel pump module above spare tire but mine has never stalled or not cranked up. I dont know. I know im not gonna throw parts at it. Thanks guys

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Yes the fuel pump driver module sure could cause that. See if Carmax will work with you first.

PerryB

What about plugged cats?

techrep

iTrader: (1)

That's what it sounds like to me too... clogged cats

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Well it can only be one clogged cat, the driver side was replaced.