FordSilly

I like amsoil, but I don't run that in my truck, hell I don't even run that in either drag cars, 521 cube svo running 89 octane making 780 hp gets conventional 10w-40 and the boss 429 ( bored and stroked to 605 running 91 octane making 987 hp gets 10w40 brad penn.

IMO i wont use synthetic unless in high rpm engines, i feel if you change your oil at 2500-3000 miles with a good filter you will have the same results.

rswright11

iTrader: (1)

Well.....I went through a drive through tonight and the diesel sound seemed louder. I got home and listened and now noticed it is coming from both wheel wells. It was just the driver's side. Also it seems to speed up when I gas it in neutral. I could have sworn it went away after 1000-1200 RPM's the last time I checked. GT, you need to put that kit in from Ebay and let me know if it fixes it!!! I'm going to do some searching around here if I can find a connection to a mechanic that would do it on the side for me...

GrimaceTimus

Yep ... tracking number says I'll have it on Monday. I am not afraid to do the work myself, but here in AZ it's well over 100F in my garage right now and I am swamped at work. I think I found a wrench that is willing to do the install for me on trade ... for one of my pistols that I just don't use anymore (I hate to get rid of it, but hey...gotta do whatcha gotta do).

I sure hope it fixes it.

I honestly think that MOST people with phaser noise have it well into the higher RPMs ... it just becomes incredibly difficult to hear over the exhaust, fuel injectors, cooling-fan, etc.

rswright11

iTrader: (1)

My question is, when you replace all these OEM parts, why won't it just come back?

GrimaceTimus

So...I meant to say a couple of things earlier...

First...you may not have both phasers out. I don't know if you ever watched my videos or not, but the diesel-clunk from my truck is equally as audible from the driver- or passenger-side wheel well. Even with the hood open, It is difficult for me to tell exactly which side my phaser-clacking is coming from. I did not isolate mine to the passenger side until I got an automotive stethoscope. So, don't be too discouraged...the fact that your noise has gotten louder might just make it more audible from the passenger side now too.

I don't mean to give you any false pretenses. You could in fact have both phasers clacking and pitching fits.

On your concerns that the issues will come back...

I can honestly say that keeps me up at night lately. I have really hem-hawed around about whether or not to go with the Livernois lockout. My budget is so tight right now that I do believe I'll have to forgo them right now. My hope is that the new parts will completely and permanently fix the problem. If it does come back, hopefully by then, I will have recovered from these expenses and I'll just buy the lockout kit before the phasers start to get really bad.

I have some hope and here's why...(note that some of this is speculative)

From my findings the trucks most affected by the phaser problem are 04'-05' 5.4L 3V Tritons (maybe 04'-05' 4.6L are just as prevalent...IDK). I came across someone that said for the first couple of years, the timing chain tensioners where made from cast aluminum. Too much heat was causing expansion and contraction issues and causing gasket/seal failures and problems as well. The newer OEM tensioners are constructed of some sort of heat-resistant composite. Apparently they are less susceptible to the heat transfer and retain their seals better. The OEM kit on eBay appears to have these composite tensioners in it ... it is the first thing I am going to check. And then of course, I want to see what the old ones are constructed from to see if all of this jives.

The other way to make sure this does not come back (I think) is to absolutely stay on top of oil and filter changes and of course, checking oil level on a weekly basis.

The final thing that I have been pondering and thinking about pretty hard is the valve bodies between the VCT solenoids and the phasers. On this other thread (you've probably seen it)...look thru the first couple of posts and the pictures of the order in which to remove the timing components.

The very last factory service manual picture shows the VCT solenoids and "VCT Solenoid housing" coming off the heads as one piece. But we know that VCT solenoid comes out of that housing / valve body ... and we also know that this is the path of the oil to the phasers (should the PCM tell the solenoid to open/close and deliver more/less oil to the phasers.

I have heard almost NO ONE talk about these valve bodies. I want to inspect them closely and verify that they have no obstructions, leaks or something that would make them contribute to the overall problem. And what about the gasket behind it? Is it also prone to premature wear or failure? Should this be replaced too (especially on the 04-05s)?

I hope to have my truck done no later than the end of next weekend ... I will keep you posted on all my findings.

GrimaceTimus

I know this guy was throwing a code ... but this is exactly what I am talking about ... those VCT solenoid housings need to be removed and checked ... probably a new gasket as well.

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/2zj76...runs-fine.html

rswright11

iTrader: (1)

Dude you have opened up a whole new can of worms.........lol

GrimaceTimus

Looks like I'll be doing this all by myself. The mechanic I found quoted me $1000 to do the job or equivalent trade in boom-boom sticks. I don't own expensive guns ... so that's at least two guns or $1000 on my credit-card.

Parts should be at my house today ... guess I am diving-in head, first.

HoytUSA

If you lived closer, I would come lend you a hand.

GrimaceTimus

Thanks man, I appreciate it. I think I'll be OK. My father-in-law has offered his help. Not sure I'll be able to have him for the entire time, but probably for most of the day on Saturday anyway.

I gotta get out and buy some tools. My el'cheap-o Harbor Freight torque-wrench stopped popping a while back (almost caused me to over-torque some new spark plugs in my Honda CRV!!! cheap tools.) Plus, the impact wrench that I inherited from my Grandpa 20 years ago just doesn't cut it anymore. The wrenches in my family are die-hard Snap-On owners (my Dad actually used to be a dealer), but I'll be stopping over to my local Sears for a (better than Harbor Freight) torque-wrench, impact and strap wrench. I have a puller that should work for the harmonic dampener ... will probably just rent the PS pulley tool from Autozone. I see that HF has one for $20, but lots of complaints about it and I don't feel like spending $80 on a tool I hope to only use one time.

Wish me luck! Send me some good karma fellow F150'ers.