2004 idle
Couple quick questions. Apologies if the subject has been beaten like a dead horse.
04 with the 5.4 triton. I purchased used in 2010 with about 70k. Currently have about 130K. It’s been trouble free but recently decided it doesn’t want to go up any hills or over 55 without acting like a fool. I bit the bullet and made the plug change. 7/8 broke as expected. Was able to remove without to many problems using the lisle kit. Rear firewall came out intact and had been replaced before in its previous life. I had the most trouble with the driver firewall. Picked up a flexible head ratchet and that made all the difference. Truck fired up and ran rough for a moment which I assumed was it digesting the healthy diet of carb cleaner and pb blaster I fed it. It smoothed out and idled fine. Went to take a spin and it died at the end of the driveway. It doesn’t want to idle in gear, put it back into neutral and it’s fine. Should I expect this since I had the battery and ecm disconnected for an extended period. I sold car batteries for about 15 years and always had problems with Mitsubishi, and Chevy trailblazers doing that, or could I have knocked something loose dicking around on the drivers side ? On the fence between driving to see if it sorts itself out or digging back in.
thanks D
04 with the 5.4 triton. I purchased used in 2010 with about 70k. Currently have about 130K. It’s been trouble free but recently decided it doesn’t want to go up any hills or over 55 without acting like a fool. I bit the bullet and made the plug change. 7/8 broke as expected. Was able to remove without to many problems using the lisle kit. Rear firewall came out intact and had been replaced before in its previous life. I had the most trouble with the driver firewall. Picked up a flexible head ratchet and that made all the difference. Truck fired up and ran rough for a moment which I assumed was it digesting the healthy diet of carb cleaner and pb blaster I fed it. It smoothed out and idled fine. Went to take a spin and it died at the end of the driveway. It doesn’t want to idle in gear, put it back into neutral and it’s fine. Should I expect this since I had the battery and ecm disconnected for an extended period. I sold car batteries for about 15 years and always had problems with Mitsubishi, and Chevy trailblazers doing that, or could I have knocked something loose dicking around on the drivers side ? On the fence between driving to see if it sorts itself out or digging back in.
thanks D
This engine very fussy about plugs . Must be done hospital clean torqued in 25 to 28 foot pounds . I bet you didn't clean all the cop connections or replace boots and springs . Replace any connector not locking on . If it still acts up go to torque pro . I hope you used sp546 plugs .
People just cheap out and don't replace boots ,thats the only thing stopping the spark from jumping to the head all 5 inches down .
People just cheap out and don't replace boots ,thats the only thing stopping the spark from jumping to the head all 5 inches down .
Thanks for the info, due to budget constraints the coil packs and boots are next. The original boots in appearance ( which doesn’t mean anything) we’re not dry rotted or visible cracked. I did clean the spring ends and dose each with dielectric grease. All the plugs snapped back in. What’s the consensus on hitting the coil pack plugs with some contact cleaner?
Contact cleaner good , oem cops clean high volt tab real good It only takes a pin hole in boots ,they go bad with oil ,heat, antifreeze and age Whole sale aftermarket cop change out no way as good
Thanks for the info, due to budget constraints the coil packs and boots are next. The original boots in appearance ( which doesn’t mean anything) we’re not dry rotted or visible cracked. I did clean the spring ends and dose each with dielectric grease. All the plugs snapped back in. What’s the consensus on hitting the coil pack plugs with some contact cleaner?






