L19MUD

OK here is the story, this is all I know as I bought her as a non runner with minimal information.

Truck was apparently running fine then cut out, started again and cut out again.

Was told the fault codes were the cam solenoids (which were included in the sale).

Yesterday I ran diagnostics to find solenoid wiring faults on both sides and fuel pump module offline, at this point things were looking promising. The battery was too flat to try and start so I put it on charge.

Tonight with a decent battery I turned the key - click. I decided to tap the starter in case it was stuck. Got under the truck and it had a brand new starter on it (have since discovered this was fitted post the breakdown). Gave it a tap and the starter freed off, but now didn't turn the engine over and just wound over grazing off the flywheel, engine not turning over.

I then put a breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt - would not turn over. Therefore I believe it is seized. Any thoughts before I take the engine out?

redfishtd

I think you have been had . Take plugs out and try to turn crank by hand . If its out of time piston can be hitting valves . this is an interference engine .You can look at stuff and pull cams so no valves are down but more than likely you have bent valves . Pull chains pull cams ,evaluate heads . But a New reman with 3 year warranty around $3200 you install plus fluids etc . Parts on engine are high so you see a reman makes a lot of sense . just make sure the body is worth it .

L19MUD

Sadly I think you are correct.

I didn't have the enthusiasm last night to start taking out plugs but I will do that tonight, or at least try as I guess I am going to have problems. Do I need the tool before I even start this? I am in the UK so access to the tool is not so easy.

I'm guessing jumped chain is the most likely suspect? Engine is at 180k miles

L19MUD

Thinking about it getting the rocker covers off is probably easier than plugs? and I should be able to see damage to the cam rockers/followers if it has jumped the chain and damaged valves

L19MUD

A very sorry state was seen when I took the drivers side rocker cover off. Massive sludge build up which must have blocked the oil ways. The cam surfaces are rusty! This engine is scrap

djfllmn

iTrader: (1)

L19MUD

Anyone seen one as bad as this? Oil looks very clean on dipstick and water level OK.... But may have missed a large number of services at some point?!!

Jojodapyro

There have been some one here that have been pretty close.

redfishtd

But only rarely has it been saved . It takes a lot of cleaning and parts .But since it may be seized that's a done deal . Loss of lube broken guides ,oil pu may be jammed with plastic fibers .
It is possible its hydro locked. Liquid fuel can't be compressed . It will bend your rods if leaking injector fills a cyl .
Over here you can get a reman $3200 plus installation and misc /then you get 3 year warranty . The last guy to try fixing it failed Thats a lot of money to try and save it without a warranty in the end . A full timing job parts over here is $1400 usa. Labor is intense on these engines .Used engines are no good ,too expensive and worn .
A few guys on here have lately went reman so they could tell you about here.
What causes this is cold climates and short trips . It barely goes from a freezing temp to maybe 160 deg f on a short run and doesn't get the vapor out of engine . Day after day that condensation is hell on that oil . It must run a good hour or more each week and oil has to change every few months not in miles . Full syn may help and an engine flush every now and then.
Remans over here have upgrades also .

L19MUD

I agree it could be hydro locked. I have not taken the other valve cover off to see if there is physical damage in there. I was hoping for a best case scenario of a jumped chain on one bank, taking that head off and changing the valves and replacing the timing chain/guides/tensioner and phasers. As a minimum this engine is going to need both cams too and with the condition of the oil at the top it will likely need a crank grind and new bottom end bearings too. Whilst all possible I really don't have that amount of time to invest in it at the moment.

$3200 equates to £2400 roughly which is the price I can see on the Rockauto website. At that price point I think I would be pretty tempted, the issue is that by the time it gets to me it will be £2400 plus 20% Value added tax plus shipping plus core charge (which will be too expensive to return) and that comes close to £5000 or $6,700. That is a big chunk of cash and I don't want that much invested in what will just be a fun toy and not a daily driver. Additionally I will still be without a warranty as it wont be covered in the UK.

My only option if I plan to keep it is to change the engine for a used one and that is looking difficult too. In the UK the closest equivalent to this 15 year old Ford engine is probably a 4.4 V8 from a Range Rover. I could buy a good used one of those for £5-600 from ebay and I was hoping I could do the same for the Ford V8 on US ebay and import it over. It sounds like that won't be possible and I could be buying just as much of a problem as I have now

Changing the engine for a different one whilst possible is more work than I really wanted to commit to.

Time to try and find a good used one in the UK at sensible money I guess!