2004 5.4 3V Exhaust Manifolds
03-29-2012, 06:58 PM
#11
06 f150 larait
when i had a mainifold replaced on my dodge i think it was arround 1500$ at my local shop. not a dodge dealer.
my right side is tickin alot also. but i think its to much of a job for my drive way. so im not sure what im going to do yet.
my right side is tickin alot also. but i think its to much of a job for my drive way. so im not sure what im going to do yet.
03-29-2012, 07:50 PM
#12
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Recon
mine started out with just a ticking sound when the engine was cold and then a faint ticking sound when the engine was warmed up, now the tick has become a lot louder and yes it is starting to drive me nuts. Anyone know how much a dealership/mechanic would charge to replace the exhaust manifold and studs?
In regards to the OP, I found those Dorman manifolds online but for some reason it was only showing the passenger side manifold for sale, don't they sell the driver side? I've haven't seen any info yet about the quality difference between the 2 manufacturers that you mentioned. Lets hope someone can shime in on that
In regards to the OP, I found those Dorman manifolds online but for some reason it was only showing the passenger side manifold for sale, don't they sell the driver side? I've haven't seen any info yet about the quality difference between the 2 manufacturers that you mentioned. Lets hope someone can shime in on that
03-29-2012, 07:59 PM
#13
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that's a great deal 08f150xlt. Did that included a new manifold or did they re-use the old one? What side is hardest to replace? I had a look today and it looks like the driver side (where I have the leak) has the most room to get too. The passenger side looks pretty tight.
03-29-2012, 11:53 PM
#14
Senior Member
Originally Posted by Recon
that's a great deal 08f150xlt. Did that included a new manifold or did they re-use the old one? What side is hardest to replace? I had a look today and it looks like the driver side (where I have the leak) has the most room to get too. The passenger side looks pretty tight.
He said he can fix them in his sleep. So he wasn't out to make money off me. Plus I throw tons of side work at him from people I know who need work done.
04-02-2012, 03:34 PM
#15
www.sldraftingdesign.com
Thread Starter
Both
When cold its very loud tick. For example if you start your truck and it ticks loud for about 20-30 seconds then gets quiet or normal sounding. But once you start driving or putting the engine under a load, you'll hear it tick.
A way to check is when the engine is warmed up, roll windows down, put truck in drive, hold a foot on the break and push the gas pedal too, not too much to smoke the tires! You should hear the tick when the gas pedal is pushed. It should tick with rpms. If you simply put it in neutral or park and rev it and listen for the tick it won't be noticeable. Only under a load
Mine would be soo annoying with my passenger window down driving along a building or wall. The tick would echo off the wall and sound very loud.
When cold its very loud tick. For example if you start your truck and it ticks loud for about 20-30 seconds then gets quiet or normal sounding. But once you start driving or putting the engine under a load, you'll hear it tick.
A way to check is when the engine is warmed up, roll windows down, put truck in drive, hold a foot on the break and push the gas pedal too, not too much to smoke the tires! You should hear the tick when the gas pedal is pushed. It should tick with rpms. If you simply put it in neutral or park and rev it and listen for the tick it won't be noticeable. Only under a load
Mine would be soo annoying with my passenger window down driving along a building or wall. The tick would echo off the wall and sound very loud.
BUT I am wondering if I should go MC or Dorman. I mean the Facotry one failed at 76k
Last edited by dixie_boysles; 04-02-2012 at 03:41 PM.