ford911

Small update...

I got everything back from the machine shop. Bored out 30. Waiting on the head gaskets and bolts. Will assemble this weekend and Hope to get back in by the following. We will see how it works out. Fighting the exhaust manifold flange studs at the moment.

BP

ford911

Okay... So I spent the day today with the kids and the engine.. Got the rear main seal installed. Oil pump, both heads. Got it timed and primed. Still not sure about the oil pump pressure relief spring. After seeing the oil poor out of the pressure relief hole in the tensioners I am thinking that the 80PSI spring might be the one to go with. 70 is a pressure that the stock pump can make if I understand the factory pump correctly.

I have the 10340 Melling pump which uses the 340 body.

Here are some pictures of the open assembled engine...

BP

ford911

Okay. So I had the motor all together as you can see in the photos above. I was fixing to attach the chains to lift it up to but the flywheel on it. I was installing the spark plugs, expensive little suckers at $12 each. I was using a piece of vacuum line to help me thread them when one of them would not tighten down. I though man it must have a glob of paint down in the threads keeping it from starting. I checked the depth compared to another one and it was deep enough. I then saw that I was able to push the plug in and pull it out with only a small amount of resistance. So I was back to Autozone to tell them they gave me a bad head. The manager was great. Gave me new gaskets and bolts etc. Got the head the next day. Not really happy about it but, it could have been worse and he could have made a bad situation worse.

Here are a few pictures. I turned the crank to get all the colored links lined back up so I could confidently disassemble and reassemble the head.

I plan on getting the engine back in this weekend. I see that this has really not peaked a lot of peoples curiosity so it is doubtful I will update this thread and let it die.

VTX1800N1

Hey, I'm interested!!! Currently rebuilding my son's 4.6L 2V in his 2002 Mustang. Great pictures, by the way. I think I'm going to use some moly grease on the chains when I put his engine back together. His ejected all the rockers for cylinders 3 & 4 and had almost no compression on 8. Cylinder 6 had heavy scoring on the piston and cylinder walls. The cam journals on both heads were destroyed and had actually closed off the oil feed holes, making the problem worse. Aluminum from there had gone through the engine and destroyed all the bearings.

Link to his rebuild here:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/4-6l-...e-rebuild.html

We are re-using the stock cast crank, but getting forged pistons and rods (if ModMax ever gets the parts in...). $1200 total for the rotating assembly. Each new head is $420 complete with cams, lifters, rockers, valves... brand new. Engine block and crank machine shop work (bored/honed .020, decked, check line bore, hot tanked, and crank polished) is $800. I detail all the part costs in the thread.

Scott7373

i think your post is great with the rebuild and all! nice work
new to this site......bundles of information!!

primalurges

Looks like a worn follower may have been what caused your first engine to drop the valve. Was it making the tapping ticking noises before the valve dropped?

papa tiger

How is it coming ? Any updates ready for us ? A broken valve spring is such a bum deal.

bluebullet10

iTrader: (1)

Prima,

This thread is from someone who purchased my truck to rebuild the engine after it went out on me. He knows his stuff because I looked into doing the same job myself he is doing, and knew I was in over my head.

In reference to your question (being previous owner for 4 years) it did make the normal ticking sounds related to the cam phasers but nothing out of the ordinary leading up to the failure of the engine. In fact I had been driving for about 30 minutes on the interstate going home with cruise control set (65-70) when a bang occurred and my dash lit up like a Christmas tree.

We have (I suppose now had) three 2004 f150s in the family. The one being rebuilt had 130k when it failed. One has 175k and one has 170k. All 3 made the ticking noise to some degree. Interestingly enough, the highest mile vehicle was the quietest.


FWIW this vehicle is the only one that received regular maintence. Mobil 1 oil changes every 4k miles; transmission service, new radiator fluid, and new 1 piece spark @ 100k (none broke); rear end fluid changed, ect. Owner prior to me (original owner) was a marine drill sergeant who did maintence by the book. In fact if he needed new windshield wipers he took it to dealership to have them install it. A little overkill IMHO. The other 2 F150s we own with 50k more miles have the original plugs, neither are as diligent about oil maintence, and they are driven twice as hard; one tows and uses it as DD all city miles, and one is driven by my brother (17 years old when purchased) who thinks mud is a permanent paint color. Needless to say, I was extremely confused and upset that out of the three, this was the truck that failed.



All that being said, the OP emailed me 2 days ago and informed me that the rebuild was done and truck was running again. Hopefully he will chime in his thoughts on how things finished up.

primalurges

interesting, I wonder if it's the parts used on the 04s or maybe even the Mobil1. I'm approaching 130k and had to replace my lash adjusters about 15k ago because the ticking was driving me nuts. All of my lash adjusters were seized in the extended position. I too have always used nothing but Mobil1 and mY engine looked brand new inside no tanning, all the cam journals were good, I'm still baffled over how all the adjusters were seized on a clean engine.

papa tiger

A lot of Lash noise would be caused by loose lifters collapsed due to loss of oil pressure. One lifter knickering around would be caused by the above or wear to the valve or cam. Possibly more ! Loss of oil pressure I would look at the crank and bearings being worn or possibly the oil pump also. Though any oil leakage from the supply could cause it. Say timing chain adjuster.