Originally Posted by homer

Tach signal, is most likely what it is. I just fixed this on a Toyota Corolla with Viper remote start. What they did in their case was used alternator or voltage sensing. The problem is, the remote start doesn't think the vehicle successfully started, so it shuts down and retries. In their case, it would do it about 3 times then give up. Overall, it's really annoying and usually it's the installer being lazy and not adding the tach wire and using a true tach pickup. The alternator sensing and other methods work ok, but I'm personally not sold on them. I still hook the tach wire to either a fuel injector or a coil as I know it'll be a good signal. The only problem is in your case, if they didn't you're going to have to pull a wire through to the unit and then program the unit to use tach sensing. On the newer Fords (and other manufacturers) with Smart Start, you can get away without a tach sense for cranking because the computer takes over the start process but I still like the remote starter to know the truck is truly running. Here's what I would check: - What brand is your remote start? - Under the hood, can you tell if a wire was tapped into any of the fuel injectors or coil on plug connectors? If so, it doesn't mean it was programmed in. - Depending on the unit, I can tell you how to set the tach RPM. Another thing I should throw out there is I commonly see remote starters tach start RPM set too high. Most manuals specifically state, set the tach RPM when the vehicle is warm (this may also be your case). Most shops don't have time to wait so they just start the vehicle, wait 30 seconds, then set the remote start tach. The problem that can happen here is the unit may not detect the vehicle is running OR worse, you start chewing up starters (and how often is a person next to their vehicle during remote start listening to their starter overrun - not very often! haha). So I always try to put that out there. Anytime someone tells me a remote start goes through starters, the first thing that comes to mind is it's overrunning. You likely have one of those two scenarios: Tach RPM is not set correct or tach wire is not being used. Based on the older battery and/or alternator, I'm leaning towards your system is set to voltage/alternator sensing. Again, not my personal preferred method (depending on your brand I can walk you through how to change that). I hope that makes sense?

Originally Posted by Especial86

Wow! Makes perfect sense... Thanks!!

When I first bought my truck I had a misfire on cylinder 1.. Upon inspection I found a rouge yellow wire soldered onto the COP wire that was seemingly cut off and abandoned at some point. It was left bare with the copper laying on the valve cover.. It ruined that cop and caused the misfire. I cut the wire off and wrapped the cop wires, I then replaced the cop and the truck ran great instantly..

Since then the remote start has functioned very well.. The repeated shut down and starts have been very infrequent, yet still happen every now and again on a hot motor for the most part. I do remember it happening on a cold start once though...

Judging by what your saying it looks like they ditched the signal wire from the cop, and rerouted it somewhere else.. I just removed my alternator, all my injectors and cops, then reinstalled them all recently with my blower kit.. I really don't remember seeing any lead spliced or tapped into any of the aforementioned wires except for COP 1 which is repaired, yet the remote starter works good most of the time.. So with all this great information you just mentioned, I'm wondering if the remote start installer ended up wiring the module to the tac after-all.. If this is the case, then how would the truck remote start fine with a cold engine, and for some reason want to keep restarting with a warm engine, on occasion... I have an automate alarm/remote start system.


http://www.automatecarsecurity.com/P.../6003/AM6.aspx
My remotes look like these^^^

I should also mention that I have a DVD player that can play while driving with the disabled park switch.. Prob unrelated but worth mentioning.

So should I be thinking battery?? Alternator maybe?