Dealer and I have been having a hell of a time figuring out some quirky problems on my 2012 f150 eco. Not sure if the 3 are related or not. I do apologize for this being a LONG post.

Notes- mods ive done
Sct tuner from 5star (currently stock tho)

Added subs and amp. Amp power is from an add-a-fuse on #38 and speaker level input tapped from rear speakers

Clipped the blue/gray wire under column to kill the door-open key-in chime

Also, when i bought it, i had the dealer add the brake control and remote start but they didnt install it till after a week or so that i had it. They didnt program the brake control right bc it didnt even work so im kinda leary about thier work (this is the same dealer as before that didnt find any codes, watered down my washer fluid so it froze on sub 0 days, and left my damn keys in it sitting in the parking lot all day after they worked on it )

What its doing:
1) its gotten stuck in 1st gear taking off from a stop for 30 secs or so. I can go to manual mode and shift it fine but in drive it wont shift

2) cruise control has kicked off randomly going down road repeatedly for a few minutes (set it, kicks off after a few seconds, set it again, and itll kick out after bit then its fine like nothings goin on)

3) it has a huge stumble/stall/lack of power when taking off from stop. Its not the condensation issue 'i think' since itll rev fine in neutral and itll do it in any condition (freezing cold doubt theres much moisture in air). It feels almost like theres slipping somewhere in the tq converter or 1st somewhere but not 100%. Itll do this for maybe 10-20 sec, clear out, MAYBE throw a code and act like it never happened. Also im lockout out of manual mode the entire time, once it clears i can go to manual and its fine.

1st time it threw the code i waited untill my next service, put ecm to stock, and took it in and they called me saying there are no codes whatsoever on it. (wtf, didnt even mention u codes from the tuner....)

2nd time took it to 2nd dealer directly after it happend, left the tuner in and everything. sm came out confused as to all the u codes(told him i unplug battery if i work on subs/amp) ne did mention a speed sensor fault but the cmp just showed a fault but nothing clear and consise (like it new there was a problem but it didnt know exactly what).he cleared them. Took it back to stock right after

3rd time same thing at 2nd dealer, showed u codes but no engine or tranny faults. He did mention adding the amp to the truck could have added extra draw which could mess up the bcm. He mentioned an f450 they put a dump bed on where that happened when they wired everything in. (plausible)

So. Yes its a story but im kinda lost. My best idea is:

Could clipping that wire somehow made the bcm NOT like the tuner and somehow screwed something up? Or the dealer messed something up installing tbc and remote start even tho both are plug and play, just need the programming. Or is there another idea....

 

Hard to say if the problems are electrical related or not.

However , I would start by re-connecting the blue/gray ( keysense ) wire and ( not sure why you chose fuse #38 ) connect your amp to fuse #19 ( factory amp ) or disconnect alltogether.

At least you have eliminated the electrical modifications you have done.

Now, if the drivability issues return --- Then I wonder if the dealer screwed up when they tried to program in the brake controller and possibly the remote start.

Maybe try another dealer to see if they can check the programming of both the brake controller and the remote start -- afterall they are ford accessories covered under warranty and should be working.

Perhaps they may also have to reflash the TCM and PCM.

 

Do you know how the keysense wire integrates into the ecm/pcm/bcm? Im wondering if all that wire does is sense when the ignition is on and door is open or if it is a trigger for anthing else like when the SCT tuner says to turn key on if this is its trigger. The only thing i really wish i knew was a for sure time table for all of this. I know for a fact the tbc and remote was first installed, then the amp/subs and tuner was last but i cant rememember when i clipped that wire and when it first started acting up. Thanks for the insight tho...worried this one was lost the spaces of this forum.

 

I have heard of a couple folks having issues like yours. I believe the fix was some sensor in the trans. I can't remember if it was indeed the speed sensor or a solenoid.

I would recommend re-connecting that key-sense wire. This may even effect your warranty status if the dealer finds it clipped. I'd find an alternative to cutting that wire.

Also, your pretty brave taking the truck to the dealer with the tuner installed. Not only could they deny warranty charges but they could also reprogram your truck thus the tuner is locked and you may have to pay to have it re-flashed. I'd leave it off until all these shenanigans have been fixed. Having a tuner on, may also add to the confusion some of the techs already have when working on these trucks.

Some of your symptoms also make me think you may have a ground wire that is loose or has a bad connection. I'd check all the body-to-frame, body-to-engine, and engine-to-frame grounds.

Also, I would check the ECM strategy and verify you have the right tuning file.

 

I will reconnect the keysense wire this weekend when i can get home to some tools to do so. As far as the tuner, i didnt want to delete any codes by rewriting the computer when taking it back to stock so i left it in and told the dealer do not do any work other than diagnostics because ill take it back to my original dealer i bought it from. I know the risk i took when i started to mod my truck and have not mentioned once that i wanted ford to foot the bill. Ill cross that bridge when i get there if they want to try to decline it. It all depends on whats wrong. I work hard so i can pay to play harder.
I found the printout they gave me of the codes they found. Only one was a PCM fault that made any sense at all.
U0151-20-ABS
U0452-20-ABS
U0140:00-28-ACM
U0197:00-24-ACM (lost comm w/ TCM)
B10F1:14-0A-BCM
U0150:00-28-FCIM
U0184:00-28-FCIM (Lost comm w/ radio)
U0140:00-28-GPSM
B11F0:11-08-HVAC
U0140:00-08-HVAC (lost comm w/ bcm)
U0401-68-08-HVAC (invalid data PCM/ECM)
P0731:00-6C-PCM (gear 1 incorrect ratio)
U0100-20-TBC (lost comm ECM/PCM-A)
U0140-20-TBC
U0155-20-TBC (lost comm inst panel)

 

Ya know --- I was thinking about the keysense function and started coming up with some things it would impact if that wire was cut.

First thing, I would believe that would disable the ( Smartlock ) feature of not locking the vehicle with the key in the ignition.

Second thing , would be the Accessory delay shutoff feature could be impacted.

Third thing, I believe the keysense is an integral component for the Securilock passive anti-theft system .

All of which leads me to believe the keysense wire is there for a reason -- more than just tied into a chime. Keeping in mind these modern vehicles have become more sophisticated with all the control modules and the CANBUS linking them together and unlike old vehicles cutting wires ( that seem like they aren't important ) doesn't sound like a good idea.

I came across this interesting bit of information on this subject worth a read ............ http://www.justanswer.com/ford/6cqnk...-2010-150.html


As mentioned earlier -- re-connecting the keysense wire would be the first thing i would do.

 

Thanks guys for your help i do appreciate it. Ran across a tsb for the lead frame in the trans and had the dealer check the codes after it stumbled a few times last week and it seems thats the culprit. Its tsb 13-2-3 for anyone who has similar problems. Ill update after its fixed and have some miles to say if its fixed 100%