Thank you Diegoo,


I like the prices there much more than a brand spanking new trans.


Also I was reading other forums and someone indicated that by removing the battery long enough you can reset the computer and make the system relearn your driving habits. Does anyone know how long the battery has to be removed for this to take affect?


I also found a TSB from 2012 regarding a new update that address some issues. It did not call out trans issues, but my truck was built in in June 2011, so couldn't hurt....


Some 2011-2012 F150 vehicles built on or before 2/7/2012 and equipped with a 3.5L gasoline turbocharged direct injection (GTDI) engine may exhibit a malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) with various diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) and driveability concerns.

I am certainly trying to find all options before spending so much on a trans. As the computer is what throws codes out that the mechanics pulled to say my trans was the issue, I have reason to doubt it. Also when it locks into 3rd, it will not let me lock out any gears like I normally can with the + / - on the shift lever.

 

I forgot to ask do you have the manual option to? If so does the problem persist using manual?

As for the battery I usually see people say 30 minutes. Another option is disconnect the battery and press the horn for about a minute. That is because the horn is always hot so it will draw all the power away from the computer. It worked on my wife's GMC Yukon before i got my scanner and it should work I think,

 

I plan on pulling the battery tonight and leaving it out overnight, but I will be sure to lay on the horn for a minute or two before bed to ensure beyond a shadow of a doubt that all power is depleted.


As for the manual option, I do have the M, but I have never taken it above 3rd. It shifts 1,2,3 just fine. (in all honesty I thought that was a mountain's setting to help select gear for climbing and coasting up and down the hills) Does yours pass 3rd when in M?


Thanks for all the feedback, it is very helpful to bounce ideas back and forth and elevate the stress of possibly purchasing a new trans in a 2011 for 1/4 of the value of the truck.

 

The 150k mark is only if used in severe duty, according to the Ford shop manual it's sealed for life never change fluid/filter.



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If the results come back the same just trade it.

 

Disconnecting the battery for no less than 15 mins will reset the KAM (keep alive memory) and force the trucks computer to go thru the learning mode, if you have an SCT programmer you can reset KAM with it instead of disconnecting the battery. I don't know if any other brand programmers will do that but I know for a fact SCTx4 does as I have one, I also have the Ford computer system that dealer tech's use called IDS, can reset KAM with it also.
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Well I sure hope towing a 2,500 lbs. pop up a dozen or so times a year is not considered "severe duty" by Ford.


In all honesty I do wonder what they mean by severe duty. I mean I have taken my truck up and down a drag strip 5-10 times and normally roll at highway speeds of 80 mph. (when I tow that trailer I usually travel at 65) But I cannot think of anything I have done that would register unusual strain. Stock 20" rims with normal tires, no real off road excursions besides heavy snow the last two winters.

 

That IDS can tell what software update the truck is using correct? The mechanic I usually use does not have them, and I thought that only Ford dealers use them. Is it more common that I thought, and are you near the Chicago area ..... JK, but really, I would like to know if more than just dealerships have the IDS to tell me if my software is outdated.

 

"Sealed for life" is a joke and scientifically the most flawed concept ever. That guideline is a ploy to make service departments more money over the long run, since your average person won't take it in until there's a problem. Then they get to pay thousands for a new one/rebuild.
This is why on new vehicles I believe at 20K the pan should be dropped, the magnets cleaned and the filter should be changed with a partial fluid topoff. Then a few thousand miles later, do a full flush. THEN you can leave it alone until 100+K. This is what I plan on doing with mine. If the ford dealer won't drop the pan and gives me the "sealed for life" runaround, ill say screw you guys and take it to an independent shop.

 

Correct, IDS is used to check and update calibration for every computer module on every Ford ever built from 1996 to date.

Anyone can buy it but it's not cheap, initial cost is $2,200 then $700/yr to keep the software updated and the hardware functioning. Ford's cash cow as it were. I have one because I don't trust anyone monkeying with my vehicles electronics and I'm Ford factory trained in how to use it. (use to work for Ford as a dealer line tech).

I'm in New Orleans.

Maybe run a craigs list ad seeking Ford tech with IDS, never know if one may live right around the corner from you or buy IDS and then take the training course in how to use it directly from Ford, anyone can take the classes dealer techs do, just have to pony up the mullah.

If you decide to buy IDS and take the courses, I'll send some links your way to get you started.
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