TCCM Replacement
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
TCCM Replacement
I recently purchased a used 2011 Supercrew F150 Lariat with 100,000 miles on it. Shortly after buying it I noticed the battery would be dead every morning, so I assumed it was a bad battery and had it tested and replaced. The problem went away for a day or two and then returned. I had the new battery tested to make sure I didn't just happen to get a second bad battery. This battery tested fine. I also began to notice a clicking noise behind the passenger side dash and another clicking sound somewhere under the hood. (both of those sounds were only when the truck was off) So my next stop was the ford dealership because I getting real tired of jumping my truck every morning. They kept the truck for about a day and said my TCCM was still drawing power when the truck was off and draining my battery overnight. They quoted me around $600 to replace the part. I don't really want to pay that much for someone to unplug a few wires and stick a new computer in. From what I googled it doesn't seem to be a common problem on fords so would this be a pretty simple DIY job? Where exactly is the TCCM located and are replacements easy to order online?
#2
Just Another Member
The TCCM in the 2011 is located up above the passenger compartment fuse box. It is easily accessible if you're a little flexible. Take out the glove box to make it easier.
If you're swapping out the TCCM anyway, and you have an e-locker, you can actually use a Raptor TCCM and a new 4wd switch for the dashboard and get the e-locker working in 2wd instead of 4wd only. It's a plug-n-play mod too: no programming involved, just replace the module and the switch.
Details here: https://www.f150forum.com/showpost.p...4&postcount=70
If you're swapping out the TCCM anyway, and you have an e-locker, you can actually use a Raptor TCCM and a new 4wd switch for the dashboard and get the e-locker working in 2wd instead of 4wd only. It's a plug-n-play mod too: no programming involved, just replace the module and the switch.
Details here: https://www.f150forum.com/showpost.p...4&postcount=70
The following users liked this post:
Prarydog2 (08-30-2018)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info theocoog! I managed to replace the tccm pretty easily this weekend. Unfortunately my battery is still dead every morning. I guess it's back to the dealership I go.
#4
I recently purchased a used 2011 Supercrew F150 Lariat with 100,000 miles on it. Shortly after buying it I noticed the battery would be dead every morning, so I assumed it was a bad battery and had it tested and replaced. The problem went away for a day or two and then returned. I had the new battery tested to make sure I didn't just happen to get a second bad battery. This battery tested fine. I also began to notice a clicking noise behind the passenger side dash and another clicking sound somewhere under the hood. (both of those sounds were only when the truck was off) So my next stop was the ford dealership because I getting real tired of jumping my truck every morning. They kept the truck for about a day and said my TCCM was still drawing power when the truck was off and draining my battery overnight. They quoted me around $600 to replace the part. I don't really want to pay that much for someone to unplug a few wires and stick a new computer in. From what I googled it doesn't seem to be a common problem on fords so would this be a pretty simple DIY job? Where exactly is the TCCM located and are replacements easy to order online?
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Unfortunately, I never got this problem resolved. My battery still dies if I let the truck sit more than 24 hours without starting it to charge the battery. I have spoken to a bunch of people and gone to a few shops and none of them have been able to fix it.
#6
Senior Member
Jesus?!! Over a year and you are still dealing with a truck that won't hold a charge longer than 24 hours?
That's just not right.
Just a bit of background:
I looked at a lot of trucks before buying my 2011.
I immediately noticed a lot of the trucks had been "modded" by previous owners.
Who knows what they were installing.... but they evidence was there once they removed the items before selling (loose wires, holes in the dashboard area, switches that are not factory and don't do anything when clicked).
I even test drove a nice Lariat... got back to the lot ready to buy... turned off the truck, and immediately heard a bunch of clicking that did not stop.
So.. it's entirely possible (and even likely) a previous owner has done a faulty install (or removal). This could be radio upgrades, lighting upgrades, or anything else.
My first step would be looking for any areas which could have had a previous install:
1) Radio
2) Lighting (front, rear, interior, exterior).
3) Under hood (non-factory relay packs, wires going nowhere, anything that doesn't look factory).
4) Behind rear seat (amp, subs, radio wiring).
Inspect these areas; and try to find signs of something not factory.
If you do see something concerning, please post back here and ask. Take pics.
That's just not right.
Just a bit of background:
I looked at a lot of trucks before buying my 2011.
I immediately noticed a lot of the trucks had been "modded" by previous owners.
Who knows what they were installing.... but they evidence was there once they removed the items before selling (loose wires, holes in the dashboard area, switches that are not factory and don't do anything when clicked).
I even test drove a nice Lariat... got back to the lot ready to buy... turned off the truck, and immediately heard a bunch of clicking that did not stop.
So.. it's entirely possible (and even likely) a previous owner has done a faulty install (or removal). This could be radio upgrades, lighting upgrades, or anything else.
My first step would be looking for any areas which could have had a previous install:
1) Radio
2) Lighting (front, rear, interior, exterior).
3) Under hood (non-factory relay packs, wires going nowhere, anything that doesn't look factory).
4) Behind rear seat (amp, subs, radio wiring).
Inspect these areas; and try to find signs of something not factory.
If you do see something concerning, please post back here and ask. Take pics.
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
@joshlobe @Scott Sergent Thanks for the replies! I figured this thread was dead long ago. I'm currently replacing the A/C in the truck. Once I'm done with that I'll try your suggestions and report back. Fingers crossed for some progress on this damn power drain!
The following users liked this post:
joshlobe (12-11-2019)
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
So I had the battery disconnected for a week while I did the A/C replacement and when I reconnected it and jumped the truck I got engine code P068A. The code cleared after about a day, but strangely enough my battery hasn't died once yet and it's been a week. I'm sure it's too good to last, but it seems like something we did during the A/C job has stopped my parasitic drain. I'll keep you posted if it comes back, but for now I'm just happy with my early Christmas miracle!
#10
Senior Member
I'll keep you posted if it comes back, but for now I'm just happy with my early Christmas miracle!
That's great! I do hope it's resolved.
The following users liked this post:
Static2606 (12-24-2019)