jr07

Hey Guys,

I found the site searching for help with my build.

Here are the details of what I'm leaning toward: (This is subject to change)

First, I need to install a quality amp kit. All recommendations are welcome!

I was planning on doing the big 3. I checked the trucks manual and found the battery is 750 cold cranking amps (Is this sufficient with my plans?) and the stock alternator pushes 220 amps. The wire run to the battery has a 240 amp fuse on it. Looking through the bay of the engine, I found that the wire is run from the alternator into the trucks main wiring harness. It eventually branches back out and onto the battery. My only thought on a solution, if I want to do the whole big 3, is to disconnect the wire that is currently connected to the alternator, run my own 0 gauge wire, add at least a 240 fuse to the new wire no more than a foot from the battery terminal.

From there, I need to run the power wire all the way to the back cab of the truck and into a distribution block. Branch the power off into both amps. I'm keeping the stock head unit currently in the truck. It's a touchscreen with nav, plenty of features that I like. It looks like the only way to integrate the sync, bluetooth, steering wheel control, ect is to run everything (All amps, speakers) through an interface. Some I've found are: LCI8, Kicker Sum8, JL Clean Sweep/SSI Combo. (Should I use a 3 port distribution block to provide power for the interface? I did see a few ford owners tap into a fuse (#38) to provide power)

There is an amp located under the center console which I can tap into the wires and run into the interface (LCI8 for instance).

Mids and High Amp: Pioneer GM-D8604 4 channel allowing 100 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms
Front Door Speakers: Polk DB 6501 Components (100 watt RMS @ 4 ohms)
Back Door Speakers: Polk DB 571 5x7inch Coaxials (60 watt RMS @ 4 ohms)

Bass Amp: Sound Qubed Q1-1200 D class (run at 870 x 1 @ 2 ohms)
tune the amp with 40 hertz track; set the gain for 1100 watts @ 46 volts with multimeter.

Subs: 2 Sundown SA 8 V2's (500 watt RMS) run into the amp @ 2 ohms.

Alternative)
Bass Amp: Sound Qubed Q1-1200 D class (run at 1200 x 1 @ 1 ohm)
tune the amp with 40 hertz track; set the gain for 1100 watts @ 33.16 volts

Subs: 2 Sundown SA 8 V2 D4 (500 watts RMS) run into the amp @ 1 ohm


Bought 4 rolls (6 inches x 25 ft ) of U Seal Roofing Repair for dampening material of back wall and all doors. (Check it out on youtube; reason why I bought it)

I plan on building an amp rack on the back wall behind my back seat.

Any comments or suggestions, I really appreciate it!

Thanks, As soon as I start the build, i can provide video or pictures to show the build.

MikeyZ

Sounds like you know what you are doing! Good luck and should sound great.

Brad2013FX4

suscribed!

What are you going to tune the box to? Subs I assume are going to be forward facing?Port side or front.



This is pretty much the same build I want to do in mine.

dekciwfx4

I went with a similar set up, I was torn between 8's or one big *** 10. I went with the 10". The installer I used had to fabricate some brackets to lift the seat so the 10 could fit. He's going to start selling the seat lift kits if anyone is interested.

Here is what I have installed
Audison Bit Ten D
Sundown SAZ 1500.1Dv3
Sundown SAX 125.4
Sundown X 10"
Hertz HT 25 tweets
Hertz ESK 165L mid's
Damplifier Pro/luxury liner in the doors and back wall.

So far I haven't had any electrical problems, the big 3 were upgraded.

king nothing

Take the useal back and buy proper butyl deadening. Unless you like the smell of asphalt and inhaling toxic fumes

king nothing

how much did you lift the seat? I'd be interested in a smaller seat lift than the 2.5 that's available. Something like 1 to 1.5 inches. My 16 year old is over 6ft and still going

dekciwfx4

This was 3" lift. Keep in mind the X10 is a massive sub, over 10" deep. a 6' tall person can still sit in the back without a problem. However much taller than that and it may not be as comfortable. I do find the seats to feel more comfortable with the lift though, as odd as that seems.

torinalth

no need for the LC8i, use the 6i. save a little money and space. Also, i'd change up the mid/high amp away from pioneer. great decks and home audio, but not impressed with the mobile amps. For mainstream use MTX or kenwood if you want stuff you can get anywhere, otherwise I'd suggestion Diamond audio or cadence if you dont mind searching a bit to find it them. Aside from that you have the basics down.

Not sure what you plan to use for the source, but use the rear speakers if you have the fronts that have the separate tweeter.... and if you have the sony system it comes preamped so might want to backtrack to before the amp for the source.

good luck

jr07

I'm excited for this build.

[MENTION=154356]Brad2013FX4[/MENTION], I would think the best quality sound would be to have the subs face forward. Only thing is that I would have to put grills on both subs. I fish a lot down here in Louisiana and move stuff in and out of my truck. I haven't actually figured out how and what my box is going to look like yet. To be honest, everything I've learned has been in the past 2 weeks. I'm really looking for some suggestions as far a box. How do you tune the box?

Also, I made the decision to go with the Sundown SA 8 V2 D4 (Dual voice coil @ 4 ohms.) I will parallel both speakers bringing the ohm load down to 2 ohms, and then parallel the speakers again bringing down the ohm load to 1 ohm. This should provide more power to the speakers. That one 1 ohm load will run into Sound Qubed Mono. Like I said, I'm going to tune the sub amp for 1100 watts.

[MENTION=45939]dekciwfx4[/MENTION], the build looks great. If I need the space under my back seats, I may use a "lift kit." I found this for my truck:
http://www.lmiwelding.com/kits_supercab.htm
Also, did you have the sony sound system? It looks like your interface is mounted in the middle of your back wall. If you had the sony sound system, did you have to get to the center console to tap into the factory amp? Your setup looks really clean. What gauge wiring did you use to run all the speakers? I'm guessing 12 gauge?

Can anyone recommend a 4 channel amp that would go well with the Polk DB 6501 Components (100 watts RMS @ 4 ohms) & Polk DB 571 Coaxial (60 watts RMS @ 4 ohms)?

As far as running power to the interface (either LCI8 or Kicker sum8), can anyone tell me if I should run power to it straight from the battery or is there a distribution block out there that will input 0 gauge and provide two (2) 4 gauge outputs and (1) 8 gauge output?

I just purchased equipment for the big 3. 0 gauge cadence wiring (around 25 ft), xscorpion 0 gauge ring terminals (4 pair to be safe), rosin core lead free solder, 2 x-scorpion battery terminals

To Do: Run Ground to Chassis, Run Ground to Engine Block, Run positive alternator wire fused less than a foot from the battery terminal.

While I'm doing all these upgrades, I figured I mine as well install the Lockpick:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1h_5mKgKw0

Because I'm installing all the equipment, I'm thinking I should get a tonneau cover to gain that space back.

RES4CUE

Subs don't have a directional preference so you can have them pointed wherever, now the port on the other hand does.