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Installed the rear swaybar yesterday in the garage with the truck on ramps. Not a hard DIY at all just a bit of fiddling required. My ACTUAL install time was just over 2 hours ( I'm not even close to a mechanic). Only difficult part is fitting the torque wrench into certain spots.
WARNING: If you order be sure to check all parts end links and plates before you start installing to ensure the threads are not screwed. I had to have Hellwig send me new end links and end plates due to threads being crushed, missing, and covered in powdercoat.
I installed in the recommended outermost hole and the difference is very noticeable. OP described the feeling over bumps perfectly as distributed through the truck evenly. Corners are tighter etc. I may move the bolts up one but was quite happy with the drive yesterday so likely won't change.
In terms of position, I put the bar on basically parallel to the ground so that the rear bar is just above the lower lip of the rear diff (I think that's what it is) and the front links so that the edges sit just above the bottom of the skid plates. From my reading there doesn't seem to be a right or wrong on this item, it would be nice if Hellwig had a guide or note somewhere explaining how it should be oriented. I NEVER off-road so I wasn't to fussed on this part.
Overall - great mod, very easy to do and seems to make a nice change to the truck over stock. Thanks to all in the thread - lots of good tips here!
Last edited by singlespeeder; 03-18-2014 at 07:08 AM.
I can only guess, but I imagine the sway bar is going to add some life to the front tires with not scrubbing as much in the corners.
Ya know..for when your in that pissed off, I'm late, hard driving mood.
Ford nor Chevrolet uses a rear sway bar. Ram is the only truck that I'm aware comes with one from the factory.
The F150 in certain situations provides significant notice that a rear sway bar isn't present. Moderate hard acceleration out of a turn with open rear differential results in wheel spin on the inside rear wheel, truck reacts with TC cutting power to prevent the tire spin, and thus defeating the driver intention of moderate hard acceleration. The P series tires don't seem to help. Balance of the truck could be considerably better, in OEM form under-steer is prevalent.
Added Hellwig 7705 Rear Sway Bar.
Installed the sway bar per the instructions and the solution seems to work rather well. Truck is much more balanced. Taking corners at consistent speed can now scrub all four tires with balance and gone is the heavy over-steer condition. Bar is set on the softest setting, closest to the front of the vehicle, of the three settings available. There is some moderate understeer still present in this setting. Not really noticeable unless pushed hard.
Negatives are two fold, kit needs additional pieces, and end links are the old less desirable design, not the S design pictured in the latest product ad.
The kit doesn't include washers for the upper end link connection and the clevis bracket. The kit includes a bolt and lock nut for attaching the upper portion of the end link to to the clevis bracket. It should have included a 2 1/2" long bolts versus the 2 1/4" bolts and two washers for each side four total. The bottom connection for the endlinks to the sway bar get washers. Why are the upper connections second class citizens?
The craftsmanship of the endlink appears to the the original version, shaped like an L. There appears to be a newer engineered version of the endlink in a S design (pictured in the Amazon ad). The L design appears to put side loading on the upper and lower endlink bushing. Observed about a 15 degree orientation side loading on the endlinks. The bottom connection of the endlinks appears to be oriented toward the center-line of the truck, Thus inducing the 15 degree inward orientation. Would expect the endlinks bushings when installed to be in a completely vertical orientation.
Wonder about the longevity of the endlinks, moreover the bushings, after thousands of miles being canted with stress of the bar being applied. The geometry and side loading on the endlink bushings could be better.
Good solution, attention to detail with the manufacturing of the endlinks and associated geometry could be improved.
Pleased with the purchase and result. Detail in the result it seems to eliminate the over sensitive traction and electronic stability control from having to engage and neuter the fun. Considering moving the endlinks to the middle sway bar setting.
Waking up an old thread on Hellwig.
So I'm waiting to install it, till after it goes in for some warranty items.
Like every one has said, the instructions don't specify a length for the links. I have the s shaped links.
I'm going to assume that the straight parts of the bar should be level. Not angled up or down?
Those that have installed it, is that pretty much what you did?
What about moving it back a hole or two? Did you shorten the links, or it didn't really change the angle to matter?
Thanks for any advice.
Well, 10 months and 13,000 miles) after installing the sway bars, I'm still loving how my truck drives but my tires are due for replacement (after 38,000 total miles). I was hoping for around 40,000 miles on the original Pirelli Scorpions, but the inner shoulder tread blocks have taken a serious beating causing them to need immediate replacement. I should have noticed the visible cords sooner but the tires looked fine (no missing rubber) when I inspected them before my last road trip around July 4 and even though I already had new tires sitting in the basement, I didn't want to put 2000 miles on the new tires when the old ones still had 3-4/32nds of tread remaining (again, they didn't have any visible damage like shown below at the time). I think the inside "trauma" has occurred since that trip (or perhaps during?), and I'm just glad I noticed them when I examined my tires last night when they were turned all the way. If they weren't turned enough I might have missed the missing chunks.
In any case, I recommend everyone check their tires more carefully (I know I will from now on) because the sway bars may exacerbate wear on the inner tread blocks. I'm going to have an alignment performed when the new tires are installed to see if there was something else (excessive camber?) causing this wear pattern (the same on both front tires). Either way I'm pretty sure the sway bars put more stress on the contact patch and the slip angles and increased loads are causing the sidewall to roll over higher on to the shoulder. (Or maybe it's just wear from parking lots and driveways?)
Looks like an alignment problem. If the sidewall was rolling you would see more wear on the outside as well.
Just had the new tires put on an alignment performed. Camber and caster were within spec, but they adjusted the toe from 0.08 degrees to 0.11 degrees (LEFT) and 0.02 degrees to 0.09 degrees (RIGHT). (Specified range = 0.00 - 0.20 degrees) Total toe increased from 0.10 degrees to 0.20 degrees. I'm not sure if that will make a difference or not.
Originally Posted by gDMJoe
That and perchance a slight issue of under inflation.
I thought so too, I typically inflate to 35 PSI, which is what the door sticker says. Maybe I need more air?
03-18-2014, 07:06 AM
