Canuck714

I had a similar issue on my 2wd super cab with 2 piece shaft. I had a drive shaft shop build a new one with serviceable carrier bearing and welded ends. The factory shaft is garbage..Cant service the carrier, its pressed together not welded etc etc..
On mine, the splines on the slip joint had too much play and causes a knock/thud every time you went between drive/reverse and it also vibrated at speed.
https://www.driveshaftpower.com/Ford...haft_c_19.html

Joah52683

The u joint and the driveshaft spine does not have any pay at all in them. The carrier has a little bit of movement but most the movement is at the transmission where the driveshaft bolts to the transmission. Is there a bearing or sleeve that you can replace that will take away the movement there? It is doing the same at the video posted on this thread.

Enginner5

Here's another shop that makes custom, serviceable, driveshafts for the F150.

http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Truckhtml/Ford.html

98_XC

This thread is timely for me. My 09 6.5 bed with 120, 000 miles has a vibration going around 60 mph. No vibration less than 60mph. I was told by the dealer I need a new driveshaft.

I’ll have to bite the bullet eventually, but have to get the funds. My worry is that I’ll spend the $900 on the new driveshaft only to find the vibration isn’t fixed..

Man..

tmitchell009

It's kind of hard to test a u joint unless you took your driveshaft off and tested each axis of each u joint, remove the caps and inspect. But I suspect the output shaft bushing might be worn which I believe means removing the tail shaft housing but having a slip yoke at the transfer case (4wd) version, i haven't had to deal with that so I can't expand upon it.

It depends why they are telling you to get a new driveshaft. You can find great driveshafts for cheaper than that, you just need to know what kind of drive shaft you have. Is it one piece, two piece, steel or aluminum? But more importantly, there are no moving parts in a driveshaft. What fails with regard to driveshafts are the u joints which can be replaced for $10-$50 depending on brand and how many you have to replace. The only other reason to replace is if you somehow bent or damaged the actual shaft. If the dealer is telling you to replace your driveshaft, its probably your u joints - dealers don't like to replace just the u joints.

SKBORDERS

Always check your drive shaft angles. Especially if you have changed the ride height in the rear.

Augster

Good stuff in case I need to change them out on my 6.5' bed...

bmdubya1198

Hate to bump an old thread, but I'm having this problem with my 2010 2wd. I was taking it apart earlier to grease the splines, when I discovered it was this style yoke on the transmission. There is about as much play in mine as the video in the OP. I didn't want to take it apart though if I'd have to mess with any preload or anything of that sort.
I have the typical clunk when I hit the throttle, then clunks again when the drivetrain load is relieved on braking. The output shaft seal is leaking too, so that adds up as far as play in that bearing being the issue. The question I have is if it is serviceable without tearing apart the tailshaft.

I know for certain that this is the problem though, not the driveshaft. There is no play in the driveshaft.

Update... I greased the center slip yoke just because I was under there, and noticed that there WAS in fact a slight amount of play. I cleaned it up really well and used blue Motorcraft grease. To my surprise, that took care of the nasty knock on takeoff!