Offset wheel question
Haven’t been on in a while....but I could use some wisdom. I have 2012 with 4” RC lift and -12 offset rims. I ran Duratracs on 18” Helos with -12 offset. Looked great, but I had to trim a lot. Made some threads on it back in the day. So if I want it to rub less on my next set should I go to closer to -0 to get less rub? I’m gonna get the giant Duratracs again. 325 65....roughly 34”.
I'm not going to be able to answer, I'm not versed well enough to know the answer.
Others can but you left out the important part of the equation but not sharing the wheel width. 0 offset (no such thing as -0) and -12 don't mean anything without the correct wheel width.
It's very important to specify width when talking about that wide of tire.
Others can but you left out the important part of the equation but not sharing the wheel width. 0 offset (no such thing as -0) and -12 don't mean anything without the correct wheel width.
It's very important to specify width when talking about that wide of tire.
Haven’t been on in a while....but I could use some wisdom. I have 2012 with 4” RC lift and -12 offset rims. I ran Duratracs on 18” Helos with -12 offset. Looked great, but I had to trim a lot. Made some threads on it back in the day. So if I want it to rub less on my next set should I go to closer to -0 to get less rub? I’m gonna get the giant Duratracs again. 325 65....roughly 34”.
Haven’t been on in a while....but I could use some wisdom. I have 2012 with 4” RC lift and -12 offset rims. I ran Duratracs on 18” Helos with -12 offset. Looked great, but I had to trim a lot. Made some threads on it back in the day. So if I want it to rub less on my next set should I go to closer to -0 to get less rub? I’m gonna get the giant Duratracs again. 325 65....roughly 34”.
Negative offset pushes the wheel out away from the truck farther.
Positive offset pushes the wheel in towards the truck
Factory is +44.
If you go from a -12 to a 0 offset...I'd think you will only make your problem worse with a 13" wide tire you are thinking about...are you sure you are at a -12 offset and not +12? Unless you are talking about it rubbing on the front and rear of the wheel well.
If you watch the video around the 9 minute mark it talks about offset and shows rubbing issues. The negative offset will clear the inner part of the truck better (so tire width is less of an issue), but will cause it to be closer to the front and rear of the wheel well (so diameter is an issue) during lock to lock movement. But this also goes with tire size appropriate for your offset. If you choose properly, you won't have issues.
Easy enough to find out, take your tire and wheel you have now and turn it all the way to the left, see how much of a gap you have and measure that, now do that same thing with all the way to the right lock. Measure gap between tire and fender. Whichever number is smaller, multiply it by 2 and that is the biggest increase in tire size you can go and just barely rub. So if you get 1/2" on the rear and say 3/4" on the front, you could go to a 1" larger tire (1/2" on the rear x 2 = 1" bigger tire). The front measurement wouldn't matter here. If the numbers were reversed, you'd want to use the front measurement and the rear wouldn't matter.
If width is the issue, do the same thing with the inner part of the wheel, and that is the widest tire you can go. As you go towards a positive offset, wheel width becomes an issue. My Ridge grapplers are 295/55/r20's and the width is the issue.
I have a 4" BDS lift and with the factory offset, I was rubbing the rear shocks (3.0" piggy back reservoir shocks so most won't have that issue) and was hitting the front knuckle with my tire width when I was off-roading and compressing the suspension up. I had to use spacers for now to space them more towards negative 1.5". This now gives me about a +6mm offset. Front to back I could easily clear a 35" tire (which will be the next size) but I need to stay with a +6mm offset. I MAY be able to get a +12mm offset to work, but that would be VERY close to rubbing the knuckle and rear shock again with a 12" wide tire on that offset and when the suspension gets flexed.
Here is a good video
Positive offset pushes the wheel in towards the truck
Factory is +44.
If you go from a -12 to a 0 offset...I'd think you will only make your problem worse with a 13" wide tire you are thinking about...are you sure you are at a -12 offset and not +12? Unless you are talking about it rubbing on the front and rear of the wheel well.
If you watch the video around the 9 minute mark it talks about offset and shows rubbing issues. The negative offset will clear the inner part of the truck better (so tire width is less of an issue), but will cause it to be closer to the front and rear of the wheel well (so diameter is an issue) during lock to lock movement. But this also goes with tire size appropriate for your offset. If you choose properly, you won't have issues.
Easy enough to find out, take your tire and wheel you have now and turn it all the way to the left, see how much of a gap you have and measure that, now do that same thing with all the way to the right lock. Measure gap between tire and fender. Whichever number is smaller, multiply it by 2 and that is the biggest increase in tire size you can go and just barely rub. So if you get 1/2" on the rear and say 3/4" on the front, you could go to a 1" larger tire (1/2" on the rear x 2 = 1" bigger tire). The front measurement wouldn't matter here. If the numbers were reversed, you'd want to use the front measurement and the rear wouldn't matter.
If width is the issue, do the same thing with the inner part of the wheel, and that is the widest tire you can go. As you go towards a positive offset, wheel width becomes an issue. My Ridge grapplers are 295/55/r20's and the width is the issue.
I have a 4" BDS lift and with the factory offset, I was rubbing the rear shocks (3.0" piggy back reservoir shocks so most won't have that issue) and was hitting the front knuckle with my tire width when I was off-roading and compressing the suspension up. I had to use spacers for now to space them more towards negative 1.5". This now gives me about a +6mm offset. Front to back I could easily clear a 35" tire (which will be the next size) but I need to stay with a +6mm offset. I MAY be able to get a +12mm offset to work, but that would be VERY close to rubbing the knuckle and rear shock again with a 12" wide tire on that offset and when the suspension gets flexed.
Here is a good video
Last edited by jdunk54nl; Jul 21, 2020 at 01:15 PM.
Here is a good video
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That’s a great video!! Thanks!!! Wish I would have seen that 5 years ago. Yeah. I’m pretty versed on the negative out, positive now....but that animation was nice! The only issue i have now is seeing the complications of the positive negative. I’m certain I have a -12 offset, I bought the rims and mounted everything. They stick out pretty far. Right sharp turn and left and it used to rub when the tires were new. So I think if I go 0 offset it will work for me.
That’s a great video!! Thanks!!! Wish I would have seen that 5 years ago. Yeah. I’m pretty versed on the negative out, positive now....but that animation was nice! The only issue i have now is seeing the complications of the positive negative. I’m certain I have a -12 offset, I bought the rims and mounted everything. They stick out pretty far. Right sharp turn and left and it used to rub when the tires were new. So I think if I go 0 offset it will work for me.





