2011BLK_SCREW

Hey guys. Giving the truck a face lift and ordered a set of fender flares that include the “raptor-style” amber led on the front fenders. I’ve been reading about what the best way to wire these would be and below is the best I came up with, ao any help is appreciated.

1. I want the LED’s on whenever the parking lights are on

2. To wire I could buy an add-a-circuit kit and use it to “tap” into the corresponding fuse for the parking lights

3. After that it would be positive to positive and negative to ground

Am I missing aomething here? It is my understanding that given what I want the lights to do, and using the add-a-circuit I do NOT need to add a relay? Is this correct.

Thanks guys

Spiky

Personally, I would still use a relay for any additions. Even low-power lights.

mattd17

agreed... its just good practice.

Plus, i would not just grab power from the fuse or you will have them on all the time (or at least anytime the ignition is on). You still need to have the parking lights act as a signal, which would be done through the relay.

I would get a SPDT relay as wire like this:
30 and 85: connect to chassis ground
86: input signal from parking lights (positive)
87: connect to ground of new lighting

Wire the positive of the new lighting directly to the battery (or add-a-fuse). I would also add an additional, lower amperage fuse in that line to protect and isolate your OEM lighting from the aftermarket (unless the add-a-fuse already includes is own dedicated for the new lights... some do, some don't)

2011BLK_SCREW

Thanks for the feedback guys, will read up more on proper wiring. As far as “tapping-in” to the parking light to serve as a signal, does this require cutting into the factory harness using a quick-splice? I thought tapping the factory harness was poor form, unless there is a diference between using it as a signal vs power source.

again excuse my ignorance here guys.

McLovin

I just did a similar setup on my ‘13. I wired the fronts directly into the parking lights and the rears into the license lamps. Every connection soldered and heat shrink wrapped. All on when parking lights are on and no problems from the install.

mattd17

when you "tap in", there are several ways of doing this. I personally will not use a "t-tap" or similar. I like to use solder and heat shrink.

By using a relay you are not adding extra current on the original circuit, since it is only used to trigger the relay which allows the main current draw to follow a direct path from battery to devise and back. This is not poor for at all...in fact, it is the best way to do it. Even though your "new" lights are LED and draw very little current, i would still recommend adding them through a relay. I like to keep circuits isolated from each other when possible.

I would use a wire at the existing light socket as my signal. If you try to use a wire at the existing switch, it won't aways work. Modern vehicles use a can bus system so the control side may or may not actually signal a relay.